Piggaz

Through 6 boost direct. $1350 from memory. I believe it's a rb25/26 flange. Makes sense to do it that way.

What ass end have you got on it Pete? You may have mentioned it earlier.

The A-LSD to a real diff isn't a set in stone rule Apparantly. Terry from Award said its a car by car thing. Mine I had to replace the shafts but that doesn't mean the very next car off the production line needs to. That's what he said anyway. Doesn't really help .

Geoff, no I didn't. It's almost been 4 months. I ordered them in black. Apparently Tial have no stock. I've been told early November. We will see. Any idea what your 8374 was turning to on your 2.6 L? The max speed of the 8374 is 127,000 RPM. Where would you like to see it set to without ringing it's neck?

Try running it up at lower boost and another run with more boost early on. If it makes it to say 7000 rpm without the "miss" and then when you give it more boost it happens at say 4800 rpm, good chance it's that. I've had the same issue on my own car and it turned out to be float. Sounded like a missfire.

Valve float?

Spent the day reading through the whole thread again. What a bloody roller coaster. It's been a little dead in here so time for a bump. EFR 8374 1.05 ass end. See you later -5's, you have served well. 6 boost twin scroll manifold. 38 mm Tial gates will be used. Still waiting on those guys (talk about lead time) After speaking to Geoff on and off for the past 18 months about this, the 8374 seemed the way to go. There have been two results, Sub boys being one where he says the 8374 IWG on the 3.0 is spinning at 130k RPM to achieve 1.5 bar (IIRC). The other one is Matty from WA. To achieve 1.6 ish bar was only turning 95K RPM. Out of curiosity more than anything I've bought the speed sensor kit with a display to monitor it. 2.8 L (87 mm slugs) 9.0:1 comp 260 at 10.85 mm cams NIsmo cooler 4 inch exhaust with the gates plumbed back E85 As much of a fan of the twin / stock looking appearance, the ease of working on a single would make everything a lot easier.

What happened to the donk? Good as scrap is it?

With your current setup you clown. Is it tuned yet?

Result?

I'll keep it in mind. What would you like to see on it seeing that the Buddy Clubs don't suit your pallet?

I'll have a good look when the car is in the air. Micky ran a line from the box to the factory fuel filter position so maybe something like that could work. Any suggestions?

I looked in this a lot last year. You can only go from step 1 to a 2. Couldn't see an option to go from 1 or 2 to a pro, unless it's changed?

Sitting on the fence of that one for now. Waiting for Mr Hill to do it first.

18 months apparently. That's what got me into this mess to begin with!

How long does a turbo swap take? It's not the end of the world.

Have been a little quiet here lately. This fuel gunk issue has really given me the shits. The baskets in the injectors kept filling up so in the end I decided to rip them out for the journey to Richmond where the next round of goodies are going on. EFR 8374 1.05 ass end. See you later -5's, you have served well. 6 boost twin scroll manifold. 38 mm Tial gates will be used. Still waiting on those guys. In light of this fuel issue, I've gone mega overkill. Ordered three of these Fuelab filters. A single 75 micron filter pre surge tank with twin 6 micron filters post pump. I'm going to "Y" it and run the filters in parallel seeing that the filtration is so fine. A set of stainless steel internal 1700's will be going in instead of the 2000's. EFR speed sensor. It will be Intersting to see what speeds the snail is spinning. Display for the sensor. Holley Dominator 1800 fuel pump has been purchased and getting rid of these 044's. A new stainless surge tank will be made and will live in the boot. All intake, exhaust, surge tank fabrication will be done by Mick_O. Some Nismo diff bushes have been bought also. I have solid alloy ones in there ATM and they're bloody horrible. A catch can has to be made for the OS88. It just spews oil out of the breather when giving it some on left hand corners. Poor form OS!!!

Why would you go down the D Jetro route with a PFC and not run something that isn't from 1912? The D Jetro you have to pull the intake off to drill number 3 and 4 runners for the the duel MAP sensors. That isn't a $20 exercise of paying a workshop. Link G4 Haltech Vipec All plug in, more features, newer and will cost basically the same money at the end of the day.

Which no one does BIN IT!

Who cares how big they are. How much air is the wheels moving. The 63 mm GTX moves the same amount of air as the 71.1 GT wheel (both 44 lb/minute). 44 mm/min is that volume of air regardless is its 1 mm or 200 mm wheel. So, you're back to square one just in another form.

For the sake of adding more to this turbine/hot side discussion, I'll throw Gav's RS VS -5 back to back up. Those RS 71.1'mm wheels are so much bigger than the little -5's yet only gave 20 HP more.

Twin 3 inch into a single 4 inch.

It would be interesting to log exhaust pressures with the T28/0.64 AR housing on a 600-650 whp RB. It might prove to be a very informative exercise.

Yep.

Wow! Anyway, having spoken to Simon multiple times about his setup, he has some interesting views about it all. 1 - heat management. He has said he could have put Atleast another half a radiator in the nose of his car. It was "OK" at 550 HP but at 620-650 he couldn't keep it cool. 2 - what that comparison doesn't show you is boost pressure. How much harder is the 63 working over the -5 here? 3 - even Simon himself says he should have put an Intercooler on it. Golf ball/garden hose. 4 - at what point does the factory piping call enough. It's only 60 mm with horrible sharp bends everywhere. The boost pressure to go from 550 - 650 HP was ALOT considering the size of the compressors. Flogging a dead horse comes to mind. Maybe with a larger rear wheel/housing to accomodate the larger flowing compressor wheel would help. At the end of the day you can throw all the compressor side at it you like, it still has to get out. That side of the equation hasn't changed. HKS did a 2876 and it was a disaster. They also did the RS's which for their size never produced more power to warrant the lag that you cop over the -5/2530. (Gavin's back to back years ago showed this). All you're doing here is doing the same thing but with slightly smaller (pretty and shines) wheels. GTR_Sean ran the GTX60's on his 2.8. They're now sitting on a shelf and went back to -5's. Food for thought.