Piggaz

Ignore the power but compare the curves. T78 vs a 6266 on a 2.6.

To the top.

R34 diff ratio is 3.545 R33 diff ratio is 4.11 You don't need to change diff ratios with the getrag conversion, use your current R33 GTR sump OR use the R34 sump with the 3.545 ratio and make the rear to suit. Up to you. Box, front shaft, rear shaft, clutch

Calculate the chamber volume and have pistons made to suit the increase in chamber volume to hit the target comp ratio. I took the intake squish pad out when I built my head 10 years ago. 9.0:1 comp. Right or wrong thing to do, unsure. It’s hardly turned it into a dog though. 🤷‍♂️. Interesting topic and one that never comes to a black and white answer.

Can of worms this topic. Got a theory on why to keep it or to remove it?

I chucked the toys out of the cot and sold it. There was two very different oil levels that I was told to run. Aside from that, the OS88 is a very “dumb” gearbox. It has no gear position sensor, it only has a switch for the gear position display. It doesn’t come with a strain gauge and somehow they want to charge $23k for a brand new one. 👀. I have also seen a few bust with sub 500 kw too so I would take the 1500 Hp claim with a grain of salt. The length of the throw to change gears feels very long once you add a strain gauge. As a comparison, the ppg feels about half the distance. Put the PPG in the car and haven’t looked back. I would not recommend the OS88 with the amount of other options around today even if you did find one for a discounted price.

I have my own 2.8/sequential to drive. I’ll be right. 👍

Can’t believe you binned spinny cam 😞

👍

Photo of anti thefts.

Did you inspect your SR stroker kit that came from USA before it got sent to Japan or will you inspect it when it lands in Aus…. After it’s been built?

How often is “pretty regularly” with oil changes?

Makes sense.

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

At what point do you just bite the bullet and go billet? Round and round you go.

This! If you use the car like a road car which it is and don’t bounce off the limiter like a bellend then they’re fine. Granted the design could be better but it is in a road car. Want to belt it at a track... then sort it out.

September..... what year? 🤣

Buy a new sprocket from Subaru and hopefully kelford produce some decent grinds, not this pensioners turd Japanese junk. Just make sure you have mega piston to valve clearance. +1 vote for never binning vcam (emissions cam as some would call it 🙄)

Post the sheet?

12 minutes onwards. track car that’s spinning to 10,500 rpm using sub 270’s. 1 vote for not 280 brap brap nugs, especially not “soft” jap cams. The advertised duration tells you half the story. What’s the duration at 50 thou?

Because the box was designed in 1912. It’s a very dated design and apart from the bigger sump they added, hasn’t been “updated/improved” at all. It’s hardly cheap/value for money when you have to muck around with it when you get it to set it up correctly/as a sequential gearbox should be.

Gear position sensor is so you know where everything is. If you don’t have it then you can only use a set time and hope that you have completed the motion of the change before it restarts ignition.

What kinda money are they after for an OS88?

If you want to do it properly you need to install a gear position sensor BEFORE the box goes in. You’ll then need a strain gauge. Depending on the strain gauge used factor in around $2500 to do this. Here are a couple photos of the sensor I used on the OS88. The strain gauge was the “Motorsport systems” item. Same as what they use in V8 Supercars. It’s about $1500, made in Sydney.