Piggaz

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/modified-twin-turbo-pipe.html?m=1

It may be tighter, but most jap pipes are peanut sizes. I don't think I've ever see a twin 3 inch into a single 4 inch off the shelf from ping pong land.If you want to talk about a 3 inch "tight" bend restricting the exhsust, have a good look at the 2 inch turbo inlet pipes that bolt to the comp housing. At the smallest point they're about 1.7 inches (It can be fixed by welding it up and grinding the inside out). What about the tight bend in the dump pipes? Bigger fish to fry than a huge set of front pipes.

Realistically, how much is it going to hurt?

Just turn the machines back on for good. Why they stopped making these is beyond me.

Taken to PM. Save clogging up the thread with off topic dribble.

On the dyno. It's the best video I have sorry Although it doesn't show the front pipes, i can assure you the rear pipe wraps around the front. EDIT: Video's on photobucket suck wang.

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My Racepace twin three inch with equal length front pipes sounds nothing like that. The only place it merges is at the rear diff to sneak past it. I have a few videos of it on the dyno. I'll post some up when I get home. Photo bucket is not playing this morning.

I believe it was lengthening the runners for more midrange twist.... IIRC.

About $1200. That was a few years ago. Give Chris a call.

Strip it Ants.

For the nismo whores. Sort the real issue out, don't band aid it.

Lower. 62 degrees from memory.

They hug the body VERY well. I've never bumped them on the ground. They generally won't do an exhaust unless they have THE car they're going on... So they can get the fit spot on. Not sure if that's changed but that was the story a few years ago.

Fatz has a set of Racepace ones for sale at the moment.

32604 - 30P60 Ring Baulk 1 32604 - 30P61 Ring Baulk 1 32604 - 40P61 Ring Baulk 1 32606 - 30P10 Sleeve-CPRG, 5th 1 32611 - AA510 Sleeve-CPRG, 5th 1 32605 - 310P11 Hub Synchro 1 32811 - 05U10 Fork shift 1 32609 - 70L15 Insert shifting 3 32603 30P00 Spring shifting 2

Have a bottle of red and do it.

You'll be amazed at what that funny little bit of metal that comes in a blue box can do! 3WD GTR's suck. The 8374 will be a good thing also! When will it be back in the road?!!

Got a dyno sheet?Have you driven it?

Going around a corner!

Is that on petrol or E85?

For the $100 or so between the normal version and the "Competition" version, you'd be crazy not to get the "c spec". The only difference is a slightly higher clamping force. Everything else is the same.

My bill was $3000. That included machining and the cost to screw it together. That DID NOT include oil pump, water pump, set of pistons, head gasket or any of the other parts you may change. Buying something "cheap" because it's busted only to spend what you saved plus much more doesn't seem a good plan.

Why not just buy a known working engine and save yourself the headache. They're cheap enough. Look up rods and pistons then add in you may be up for a crank also depending on how bad the damage is. Add on the cost of machining and assembly. For allllll of that you could buy two (possibly more) working stockers.

The rear pods make a bit of a difference! Looks great!