Mayuri Krab

Ok that has convinced me to buy some gold & that Lowe tank now... Also I thought this was pretty funny:

Different units, the stock gauge reads in mmHg x100 for both positive & negative pressure. Most aftermarket boost gauge will read in inHg for negative & either PSI or Bar for positive pressure. 15 - 20 inHg is the norm for idling pressure with the car stationary, anything lower than 15 inHg & you may have a leak somewhere.

Scrap what I said above, seem to have fixed itself up after restarting my computer.

Ok so I got the game, but I can't seem to see any of my team mates' tanks. The little green dot appears but I can't see them even when I'm right next to them (for example at start up). Enemy tanks I can see no problem (which usually results in me getting 1 shot KOed), but none of my teammate tanks appear even when I'm dead & just speculating? Graphic glitch?

Even my mum's auto Camry (3L V6 version) could top out ~200km/h, although it would take ages to get there...

You can add an exhuast without hitting problems, well I didn't anyway. I currently have all the basic mods (exhaust, boost tee, FMIC & POD) + a SAFC 2 & the car made 180rwkw when it was tuned about 1.5 years ago, no problems what so ever. If you are not aiming for more power, SAFC is a budget option if you just want a quick solution to get rid of any R&R problems that may occur.

Technically the N64 had the better graphics hardware compared to PSX, however the games on the N64 have very limited storage space due to the use of the old cartridge media, most of the games had to be limited in that regard. I love my China bought PSX with its built in mod-chip

Any 1/2 decent 'green' coolant is fine IMO. Since I like to get my radiator system checked (& cleaned if needed) every year, I just use the 'standard life' coolants & don't bother with the extra long life stuff (the 5 year stuff).

I only wave/high beam people I know, doesn't matter what the car they are driving. Problem is 1/2 of the time they don't even know what was going on, I high beamed my dad who was driving his work ute once & he didn't even realise it was me until I wound the window down...

Turbotech for cheap bang for your buck or Gizzmo if you want electronic controller (also acts as a boost gauge I think, so no need to buy a separate gauge).

+1 I had an old ECS 865 mobo (socket 478 for Pentium 4 with 2 IDE connectors & 2 SATAs) which would not boot up properly to my OS from my PATA drive (OS drive) when I had the 2 SATA HDDs connected. Did a reformat & installed my OS to one of the SATA, while still keeping the PATA HDD & it was all back to normal again... strange

Because its the best! I don't see how you can aim properly without a mouse... I play all my games on my PC with a Xbox 360 controller except FPS game, which is keyboard + mouse.

My car remote only disables the immobilizer for my car. The doors uses good old keys, so if I locked my keys in, its either crow bar time or call RAC... After locking my keys in my car before, I made it a habit to always use the keys to lock my doors so that won't happy again.

Slightly off topic, but would a pressure test show up anything if you have an internal leak?

I found my stock gauge to be crap, as when my car overheated (due to worn out thermostat & rad cap) the stock gauge just registered slightly above 1/2 way (still no where near into the H region). Lucky for me I've read some info on here that says when your stock gauge ever moves from its normal position just under 1/2 position you many have a overheat issue. So I granny drove it back & bingo my coolant was boiling away from the overflow so the coolant temperature definitely got over 110 deg C meanwhile the stock gauge still read just over 1/2 way. As for the oil temperature gauge, what is the proper location to mount the senders? I've one that is currently just mounted onto a sandwich plate where the oil filter goes on top, however I've being told that the most accurately position for the sender unit should be somewhere in the sump area? Currently my oil temperature usually settles ~80 deg C (however it seem to take very long to do that, some most of my short trips only see oil temp go up to the mid 70s, meanwhile the coolant temperature has already reached normal levels). Has this got to do more due to the location of my oil temperature sender unit?

My car's temperature seem to be (using aftermarket gauge): mid 70 deg Cs during normal driving (50-60km/h) low 80 deg Cs when stopped at traffic light for extended period of time or traffic jams. low 70 deg Cs when driving at freeway speed (100+km/h) Also I found that if I use my A/C it will cause those temperatures to go up by a couple of degrees (most noticeably temperature at idle/stop-start traffic). Highest I've seen is ~ 95 deg C, & this was during a 40+ deg C summer day using A/C & stuck in traffic. Meanwhile the useless stock gauge doesn't move an inch from its default position (just under 1/2 way).

While your pump is out, you might want to replace all the stuff for the 100,000km (timing belt, bearings, seals) service if they haven't being done already. Get a kit like this and just pay a decent workshop to change it. I had similar experience with my cooling system & the forever patching/fixing stuff up... In short: Slightly overheated, replace thermostat & Rad Cap = problem fixed. 2 weeks later, plastic top tank cracked; got that replaced. 1 week later, water pump found leaking; replaced that, along with bearings & belts. 1 week later, o-ring around plastic tank leaked, got that repaired. So basically 4 problems one after the other in like 1 month... LOL

Hopefully WA would get ignored by the rest of the Australia like when it comes to most other road/transport issues. The one that comes to mind is the phasing of RON 91 for E10 the other states are pushing; meanwhile there is no sign of E10 in WA at all! or the car restrictions for P-plate system; again still no mention at the WA DPI)

& the 6 speed ZF auto box on them is about the best auto you can get here short of going to a DSG-type box.

We have one of the more easier P-plate systems, doesn't even have P-plate Car restriction, the only other state more easier than us is TAS I think...

$200?! In WA the difference between a 4cyl & 6 is only around $15ish...

Most shops only charge like $100 - $150 or something for SAFC tuning anyway...

I thought about telling them, but in the end thought "nah, its saving me about $15 per rego compared to my mum's V6 Camry, LOL", so the cheap arse Asian inside me isn't complaining... The times I got pulled over & the cops ran checks through their data base on my car & they didn't mention anything about the 4 cyl issue neither (probably didn't know...).

My car was registered as a 4 cyl too... being like that for 3 years...

Like this one?