Mayuri Krab

My car has similar mods to yours & this is from my experience: 1) Most likely, I'm runing 10PSI through my bleed valve with a SAFC 2 & I've no R&R problem when I go WOT at over 6k rpm 2) If you have R&R (& you saying you have) it is worth a shot trying to fix it with SAFC, other opinion is to lower boost & see if it fixes the R&R. 3) Most likely won't be noticable (I didn't notice much). 4) I got mine tuned at All Star Garage (a import shop in WA), SAFC is a pretty basic signal bender unit & hence any 1/2 decent shop should have no problem.

Hey guys, need your help/opinion again, sorry So after my last fix (replace the O-ring seal on the top radiator tank due to a minor leak) I drove the car to Albany (~400km) before Easter break & it had no problem (& I give it a bit of WOT from time to time when overtaking road trains & Caravans). For the past week the car has just being mainly sitting there, with the exception of 1 trip I made to Denmark (~100km round) I checked the overflow bottle level from time to time & it appears to be stable around the max mark (when cold). Today before heading back to Perth I did one last routine check before handing out & I found what appears to be a white/semi-transparent film on the top layer of the coolant in the overflow tank (see picture below), I checked the coolant in the radiator & it doesn't have the same 'film layer' there. What is this film? Is this what oil in coolant looks like? Did a a couple of google image searches but those appeared to be more browny cream colour instead? I checked the other usuals (oil dipstick, oil cap & auto trans dip stick) & all of those appeared normal and rad cap doesn't have white stuff neither. While driving the car back to Perth today, keeping an eye on temperature & it was all normal (never went past 82 deg C when stationary, usually sits in the low 70s when moving along at 100-110km/h) & nothing was unusual here, car was smooth (no misfire) even when I go WOT (when overtaking) & hit 6k rpm etc etc I also pulled over & checked the coolant bottle every 100km or so & nothing else was unusual, I noticed that once the coolant has warmed up the white film disappeared & I could only spot some small 'white flakes' if I flash a LED torch. So yeah, is that white film what oil (or ATF) look like in coolant? Cheers. Going to check it again 2morrow, this car is giving me a headache atm

At Albany:

My mum go flashed at Albany, as usual they place a fixed Camera near the bottom of a steep hill... expecting some 10 - 15km/h over limit. Made me drive like a complete nanny when I got here...

I think my SSD is starting to die, windows would freeze up randomly during start up & the HDD active light on my case will be permantly on & its not my other drives since it has no noise. It is one of the 1st gen SSDs without TRIM support that I had for about 3 or so years. FML I can't afford another one atm after I just below tons of $$$ on fixing up the car's cooling system...

1) AutoGauge stepper motor one 2) Top radiator hose 3) Ranges I've seen from 72 deg C to 95 deg C depending on outside temperature (had a couple of 40+ deg C days), how much air flow radiator is getting (ie not getting stuck in traffic or behind some snail in a Getz driving <40km/h) & weather I'm using A/C or not (I found that using it tend to increase the temperature while the car is idling/stationary by up to 5 deg C). EDIT: Also I'm using the stock cooling gear, the radiator has recently being cleaned (& reported to have 0% blockage) & had the top plastic tank & seal replaced.

I left my R33 @ my mum's house in Albany & going to ride a unicyle in the mean time... cause unicyles are choice bro

I'm thinking its going to be the latter...

Do you notice any coolant boiling when it hits over 100 deg C? Its usually noticeable in the overflow bottle or a bubbling noise around the coolant hoses, mine did that due to a worn out rad cap not holding proper pressure. If it is not boiling then I wouldn't be too worried.

Quick question for everyone: What level does your coolant sits at in the radiator? Mine always seem to settle about an inch below the neck. Is that normal? If I top it up all the way to the neck, after a drive & letting it cool down all the way (next day) it will be back down to this level again. I don't think its leaking anywhere since I had it pressure tested just a week ago & the shop reported no leaks & it seem to be maintaining the coolant at this level for almost a week now. Just a bit paranoid with the recent cooling system issues I had...

This has got my attention & got me thinking. Since my mum is a Doctor & is part of some medical organization would it work if I changed my car's ownership to her name & then got insurance with Guild insurance & list me as the primary driver? Currently paying ~$1100 (thats with AD-Adjust) for my R33 (rating 3 with perfect driving record).

To all those brainless sheep against the idea of introducing a R18 into our game system because of the usual "save the children" crap. All I have to say to your lot is: "f**k YOU" The end.

GM (Holdens) have common head gasket issues?

Same here, sometimes water droplet forms on the exhaust on a cold day & when the car is running if I put my hand near the exhaust I can feel water vapor. Same as the OP, that scared the shit out of me & being the pessimistic person I am, I immediately thought about a head gasket failure (or warped head) & started to look at the usual head gasket symptoms but couldn't found anything (other than my head telling me that my car 'seems' to be running crappier than usual) until one day I was driving my dad's Corolla & found that if I put my hand near its pea shooter sized exhaust I can feel also water vapor from the exhaust gas too... :closed eyes:

This is what I see with mine as well, after the engine has warmed up; coolant just pluses slightly up & down around the rad neck area... Also after my lastest fix of the "never ending cooling system quriks" for my car I just noticed that my 2 hoses are pretty soft even when the car is at operating temperature (aftermarket gauge reads ~80 deg C) & after turning it off. No signs of overheating/boiling coolant though, so I guess its down to Nissan tommorrow for a proper OEM cap, as the current cap I've got is some generic 13psi one from SCA.

Got my car back with new water pump, idler bearings & 3 new drive belts. No more leaks from underneath the pump. With some luck, hopefully no more other leaks/problems would occur in the near future, as I need to drive to Albany this coming easter... <fingers crossed>

Well there's your problem... obviously

With regards to this, I thought coolant would flow out from the radiator neck (cap off) when the engine is cold as the thermostat would be closed at this point, therefore blocking/restricting coolant circulation? And once the engine is up at operating temperature (thermostat open and hence no longer blocking/restricting coolant circulation), and hence coolant will no longer flow out & just flow normally through the radiator? At least that what I'm seeing with my car atm; my coolant keep on flowing out if I start it with no rad cap on, however once engine is at operating temperature coolant would no longer flow out & just flow normally in the rad tanks. Or is my understanding completely wrong? I'm pretty noob with these things...

A VN with Chevy badge? Now thats manly!

WGMG Bloody mouth ucler has grown back! Also I feel like shit atm...

The way I see it is: If you are doing say over 100 in a 70 zone then that radar detector isn't going to save your ass anyway, but it will save your $$$ if you are doing ~75, which I'm all up for. & I reckon <10km/h speeding fines on highways/freeways are a pile of crap anyway <in Roger's tone, from American dad>

I found that if I ignore them, they get tired of it (since bogans are not known to have long attention spans)& just zoom past & f**k off real quick... Usually as they get in front they will pull some retarded shit in front of you (by locking up their wheels etc) to declare some race victory. & every time they do that I secretly pray that they f**k it up & crash into a tree, but so far no luck yet. Slightly off topic, but when the traffic book states that you must stop & render assistance to a car accident if you are the 1st one at the scene, does that mean you have to get out to help or can you just call the ambulance/police, wait in your car until they arrive at the scene? Since if some bogan dick was trying to race me & he crashes, all I'm thinking of doing is call the cops/ambulance & when they arrive I will gladly tell them "that I'm only doing this because it is required by law & I couldn't care less if this douche dies or becomes a vegetable for life" EDIT: actually scrap that, I do care if he ends up as a vegetable for life, that means my tax $$$ will goes towards keeping that douche alive... f**k that!

Noob question: When your water pump seal is gone, how fast is coolant suppose to leak from the hole underneath the water pump, Driping or pissing out? My leak seem to only occur when the car cooling down or warming up, doesn't seem to notice any leaks when the engine running at operating temperature?

Update I started to notice some small coolant marks on the undercover of the car so I had a more through look around the engine bay & noticed a trail of coolant marks on the areas underneath the water pump. I guess the water pump seal is gone & it's new pump time, dam Murphy's law is coming back to bite me in the ass now. While the pump is getting changed I guess I will also get the bearings/pulleys changed too at the same time (timing belt was done 30,000kms ago). I'm going to be poor again...

& this is the reason I don't plan on selling my car for a long time (probably never, had a engine rebuild planed when it hits ~200k kms), besides sentimental value, the car is basically worthless to anyone else other than me. My mum's white good Camry will worth more & be much more easy to sell than my car.