Mayuri Krab

Where is the "no" option? I'm going to go agasint the flow & say that if you are using it as a daily car that gets driven to a lot of sh*t places (with crap roads, massive speed bumps etc etc like me) then I would keep it @ stock height. Even my own driveway is on a stupid downward angle & my stock height car just manages to clear it without scraping the underside. *puts flame suit on*

Falcodores are a good "cheap power" car, easy to extract power from like most imports. So I see the appeal & I might buy a V8 later on... & in my eyes the current & past few generations looks 1/2 decent enough. Most people complains about their interior (all plastic bits & pieces) but I don't really care about that.

Yeah, got bum raped by labour costs & the shop used brand new OEM parts *cough* massive over price *cough*. EDIT: on a side note, I seem to have a problem with my bottom air vents (the ones that blowi air on your feet), they will open when I turn the whole system off?

Depends on where you took your car for the A/C repair, my A/C repair came up around $1.5k for replacement of compressor & receiver dryer + degas & regas.

Yeah I know about the tri-channel thing, but I'm struggling to find any use for 12gig Ram unless his running multiple OSes at the same time? I was reading about the sandy bridge before & it got my attention the "apparent" bug in their SATA I ports? Doesn't affect most people since they only have 1 or 2 HDDs (which they can just put on the SATA 2 ports) but since I have 6 atm (only stopped adding more since my case ran out of drive bays) I'm waiting for them to fix it before I look into building a new computer.

Just buy 2 PS3s? One for playing all the hacked/pirated stuff & one for playing the few games that you want online. I remember a friend did this when the X-box (original one) 1st came out & Microsoft were banning people with modded Xboxs from going online, he just bought a 2nd one (locally 2nd hand, his 1st one where bought from China where it was pre-modded to buy pirated stuff) for playing (the few games) online. Neither way doesn't bother me since its PC for me all the way.

If I had the money I would get a 2nd car. But it won't be a daily, my current R33 will (still) be. Since I have never driven a tiny car (with a fuel usage of something like 5L/100km), the R33's economy of 12-14L/100km seems 1/2 decent for me to use as a daily. The other cars i have driven for extended period of time was a old VN commodore that drank more fuel than a hummer and a Camry that uses about 11-12L/100km with no power.

Coming back from work just then driving on the main road I had some Cop speed up & sit on my a** for about 10 seconds. I noticed it & thought screw this & indicated to turn off at a side street. He didn't follow. I then drove back home through a series of small roads. The end.

That sort of shit has being done in Japan ages ago now...

I got only stopped about 5 times in 3 years, 2 where for "random" checks & the others were all breath test. No one seem to pay much attention to the car... which is good I guess.

Which i7 socket? Top of the range 1366 mobo still retails for over $200 (with more expensive mobos still costing $400 to $500), CPU is around $300 (950) & a 12Gb ram kit is around $200... Why 12GB?!

I got 240rwhp at All Star Garage (about 1.5 years ago). Car was auto with 3" turbo back exhuast + CAT, POD, R34 SMIC, Boost Tee @ 10psi & SAFC 2.

Took a video of it last night while coming back home from a Lan. Video didn't turn out that great (due to using crap phone camera) & there is too much road noise (even with window up) but if you turn the volume right up you should be able to hear the faint "tick"/"click" sound. Its most noticeable from 0:15 to 0:30 & then 0:35 till end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=act11srnJPc Noise only seem to occur after 80km/h when on throttle, noise becomes un-noticeable if I let go off throttle or if I drive below this speed. Most noticeable at 80 - 90km/h since engine rpm is low (just in overdrive) less noticeable when cursing at 100 - 110km/h when engine is around 3k rpm which seem to cover the noise up.

I found my A/C is sucking some major fuel usage, when it was broken (& hence never used, just windows down + a cigarette lighter powered fan ) I get over 450km per tank (~13L/100km), but now I have got it fixed (replaced A/C compressor & receiver dryer) I'm struggling to get even 400km per tank.

Did some more "testing" today & found out that the "Click/tink noise from center console" (that general area) is still present even at 100 to 120km/h but just not very noticeable since at those speed the engine is around 3000rpm & the engine noise covers most of it up. Its only starts at around 80km/h (but will disappear the minute I let go off throttle) & is most noticeable around 80-90 since the engine is at lower rpm on over drive. Any ideas?

My mum is thinking of going back to the medical clinic in Kalgoorlie, since that place makes much more $$$ compared to the current one she's working in at Albany.

Hi guys, I had my car's A/C repaired ~3 weeks ago (they replaced the compressor and receiver dryer + de-gas & re-gas) and ever since then my car have started developing two separate noise issues: Noise 1: "Metallic Think" There is a faint metallic tink noise coming from the turbo side of the engine, the noise is very faint at idle (have to be outside to hear it) but is most noticeable when I'm on light acceleration (~15-30% throttle), if I'm on hard acceleration (over 45% throttle) then the noise is not really audible since the induction noise from the POD (& engine noise) covers it up. And finally revving it in neutral or park (car is auto) doesn't seem to make it louder. Being the pessimistic person I am, I originally thought about the turbo dying but after researching & hearing different sound clips of bad turbos on you-tube the noise doesn't match up (those all had a much higher pitch noise & when revved in neutral sounds much louder) also when I put my ear next to the turbo (next to heat shield) with the car idling the metallic tink noise doesn't seem to be coming from there but sounds like its coming from some area near the POD, underneath where the stock air snorkel sits (is that where the A/C compressor is?). I thought it could be the A/C compressor but what gets me is the fact that the noise remains even if I turn the A/C off (or the entire fan system off). Noise 2: "Click/tink noise from center console" There is a click/tink noise that appears to be coming from somewhere around the steering wheel column to the center console, noise only seem to occur at ~90km/h. If I back off throttle at this speed & drop to 80km/h or below the noise disappears (hence I don't hear it when I'm driving around in normal 60-70km/h roads) or if I drive around 100 - 110km/h there is no noise again. This noise is much more noticeable compared to the metallic tink noise coming from somewhere in front of the car. When I took my car to get a minor service done I had the mechanic check it out & he said he didn't find anything unusual & the car seems to be in good working order. Also besides the noises, the car doesn't feel any different, boost still builds up fine & there is no smoke from the exhaust, which I'm hoping it means its nothing major... Anyone have any other suggestions on what might be causing the sounds so I can get it checked out? (I'm pretty noob when it comes to cars >_>") Cheers. Extra info: Car is a S1 R33 GTS-T auto with only basic mods (turbo back exhaust + high flow CAT, POD, boost Tee set to 10psi, R34 SMIC & SAFC 2)

Smart thinking! Didn't think of that... LOL

I can sympathies, I went there to get my A/C repaired (turned out the entire dam system was f**ked) & got raped by labour & parts too

Signed. Even though this lowering ban won't affect me much I'm sick & tired of the government's fantasy fetish to "ban" everything they don't like. Now whats this BS about increasing registration cost of older cars so we are all forced to drive white goods grandpa spec Camrys?

Are they going to ban soccer mums from driving massive SUVs in the city (when they can't even park a Nissan Micra properly without hitting something...) any time soon? I'll support that 100%

I use face book to keep track of all the stuff that has being done to my car.

I'm going to buy another WD Green drive (probably the 2TB one this time) But I have a 64GB SSD as my main OS drive & a 7200rpm drive for my games. since I started downloading 720p/1080p of everything... the old drives are filling up fast.

My mum worked in a medical clinic at Kalgoorlie last year. I've being there about 3 times, driving there is a pain in the ass especially when you are driving around in a white Camry... the most boring-est car in the world. Not to mention on the way there, from the 1/2 way point (from Merredin onwards), the over-taking lanes disappears all together & overtaking 3 stage road trains is annoying as hell in a underpowered Camry. The only import I've seen while I was there was a Soarer, otherwise all I see is a bunch of bogans driving around in their Chevy badged bogandores.

From my understanding & reading threads here, no stand alone ECU works perfect with the R33 Auto transmission, something to do with the fact that the Stock ecu will back off timing when the auto changes gears to smooth out the changes but no stand alone ECU does this thus you will get very harsh gear changes if you remove the stock ECU. With the auto R34s if you remove the stock ECU the auto gear box will be stuck in 3rd (from what I have read).