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Mayuri Krab

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Everything posted by Mayuri Krab

  1. COD 4 for multi-player. Just got UT3 For single player, playing Bio-shock atm.
  2. I 1st car when I just got my P's was my current R33GTS-T. Used my mum's old VN (was sh*t as hell) and the Camry as my L car. Like some others have said, if you use your head & don't drive like a moron then you'll be fine. I haven't had any major accidents or troubles with the cops yet. Also in regarding to FWD understeering & RWD oversteering, if you take the corner at the speed shown on the sign (ie 60km/h road then going into a large corner sign reads 40km/h) then I doubt you'll notice a difference. Well I surely didn't. Also I would say just get 3rd party, full one isn't really worth it in my book. Other than that, enjoy your 1st skyline, I know I did.
  3. Thank you White GTS-T, this is the kind of info I need. Cheers man .
  4. Hey all, sorry if this is a noob/stupid question, but I want to know wether my car is boosting as it should be. I have a dead stock auto R33 GTS-T (only mod is CAT, & a random "turbo" sticker ) Heres what I learnt from searching the fourms so far: -The stock boost gauge (R33) reads in 100 mmHgs, so 760mmHg = 1bar = 14.7psi. -Stock boost for stock R33 should be 5psi (~260mmHg) upto 4500rpm then 7psi (~360mmHg) thereafter till redline. -stock boost gauge from the R33 is not very accurate, but it should atleast be accurate enough for use as an rough indication right? What I want to know is, on stock does the car only boost when you drive it properly (ie the way its meant to be driven,ie ie atleast 1/3 floor it)? Coz most of the time, I drive "normally" like my parents (ie grandma style), the boost needle never seem to go above 0, infact its mostly in the -ve region. Which means its not boosting right? Only time I saw it going into the +ve region (only slightly, which I think is about 260mmhg ~5psi) is this one time on the free way I was overtaking a series of "even grannyer" drivers (some BMWs doing something like 65km/h on the free way ). So basically is this normal, or do I have problems with my turbo or something? Sorry about the "noobness" of the question. I know my way around the current generation of comptuers but don't know sh*t when it comes to cars. Thanks all.
  5. And tell everyone there, to rev their engines at the same time infront of their house XD.
  6. While you guys are attracting commodores, I seem to attract riced up excels >_>".
  7. Will be keeping my current R33 for a while, at least after uni, then its either a R34 auto GTT (with very low kms) or a brand new Liberty 2.5GT. Basically considering any sedan thats auto with turbo. Once I drove my turbo, I knew never want to go back to N/A again XD.
  8. Having to repair my bumper(s) again .
  9. Perharps change the motherboard to a P35 chipset one (the P31 is low end), like the Gigabyte P35 DS3L or DS3, DS3R or DS3P depending if you want extra SATA ports, Extra RAID levels & firewire. Everything else seems good
  10. GGoodd... Come to the turbo side of the force, brother
  11. Does that case come with the old 430W TT PSU like the old Soprano case (I have one btw)? If so, GET a new PSU & ditch that PSO. When it comes to PSUs, the main thing to consider is the Amp rating on the 12V rail. The 430w PSU only has a single 12v rail with 18A on it & according to reviews its really only a 350w rebraded. With a 8800GT you should be looking at getting a PSU with a amp rating of atleast 22 or over on the 12V rail. If its a good quality one (like the antec earthwatt or cosiar HX520) then yes, if its some cheapo generic crap (like SHAW) then no. Another vote goes to the E8400, its easily the best bang for the buck CPU at the moment, already very fast @ stock (3Ghz) & can be pushed further quite easily. & since you are getting a 8800Gt you want a decent CPU otherwise theres gonna be bottlenecks, unless you heavily OC the E4xxxs. As for motherboard, if you are not thinking of going into SLI then don't bother about the P5N-SLI board or anything SLI board for that matter as they are usually overpriced anyway. Just get a standard P35 motherboard. Like what Scratch said either a Asus P5k or Gigabyte P35 DS3 (or DS3L if you want to save a couple of $) I have a P35 DS3P & its a very decent board. Just the E8400, & forget about the E6xxxs, as the E8xxxs cost about the same as their older counterparts.
  12. Final nail in the coffin for vista ... until they ditch xp support in games, atleast shouldn't happen for a while & for the video card thing, sorry, didn't read your post properly, thought you were recommending him a 640mb GTS (didn't read the top line where you said it was your rig).
  13. How did you get it to run smoothly with only a gig? Did you turn aero off? For me, I see vista is more usless (therefore making it appear "shit" to me) coz as far as I'm concerned It doesn't have any new "essential" features that I need. XP had the nice feature of having the image previews thing for pictures compared to 98 where you had to open each jpg to look at the pic. Only thing that would make me (more like force me to upgrade) would be DX10. But considering that games that you could run in DX10 mode (ie Crysis in Ultra high details) would kill even a 8800Ultra, I just don't see any point in getting it for the time being. And to lingeringsoul: Gigabyte p35 DS3L is a pretty decent entry level motherboard, it still retains the good over clocking ability of the higher end Gigabyte models. Btw the new 512Mb 8800GT & GTS are faster than the old 640mb GTS in almost all games (Google the test charts), since they use the new core (G92) and the increase in shader processors (112 for GT & 128 for GTS compared to 96 for the old GTS).
  14. After reading all this, I think I might give united 98 a try too. They are cheaper than vortex 98 most of the time
  15. Public transport or steal ur mum's car. But don't sell your R34!!!
  16. Pretty much just any RON 98 I use the vortex 98, coz its the "cheapest" (>_>) RON 98 near my area... I being hearing people getting away with RON 95s ok, although, I won't trust my car with it...
  17. I would recommand u get the new E8xxx dual cores instead, they are faster than the old aging Q6xxxs in 99% of normal applications (including most games) only time quads are faster is in stuff like video encoding & CAD. Also when people say the cpu is more "future proofing" its kinda pointless, coz by the time when Quads are turely being used properly, the Q6600 will be too slow for the task anyway. Intel is releasing new Quads next month or so (the Q9xxxs). For the ram, no point in ECC, the motherboard can't use it anyway, ECC ram is desgined with extra error check & correction for sever computers (ie the Intel Xeons & stuff), if you are overclocking the CPU, get DDR 2 1066mhz or 800mhz ram otherwise just go with 667mhz ram. Also are you using 32bit XP or the 64bit one? coz 4gig will only show up as ~3.5Gb on a 32bit OS. For the mother board, if you are NOT overclocking then, that board is fine, otherwise consider a Gigabyte or Asus one as they are more suited for overclocking. (like Gigabyte P35 DS3 or ASUS p5K). For video card, what kind of games are you going to play? and do you intend to play on your 22" native resolution? (for a 22" I belive they are most 1680 x 1050) If yes then the 8600GT probably won't be up the task for the more current games. 8800GT is the best bang for the buck atm. And if you are only a casual gamer & getting the 8600GT then, just get the 256mb version, 512mb is a waste as the GPU is too slow to make much use of the extra memory anyway (like puting 2Gb ram with a Intel P2) Hard drive is fine, maybe consider a Western Digital one? Burner is fine. LOL, are you serious? Q6600 is a good value for money CPU atm (but the new E8400 is still better in my opinion), it is by no means a "dam good CPU" (QX9650 is that CPU).
  18. Dam right! I bet those who say stuff like that, haven't being bashed by them before (or not seriously enough). If they were bashed and got permanent injuries and have to spend the rest of their lives in hosptial. Lets see them saying the same thing after that... If they can still say the same thing (& mean it) then , you must be Jesus reborn.
  19. Finally upgrade my com with Q6600 & G92 GTS, now I can finally play this game properly. Game is awesome, being up to 3 - 4am multiple times to play it on the net. Man I feel like crap now...
  20. Nice! & its my favorite whitle colour too win win!!! Was this manual or auto? If I haven't bought my car (s1 auto) then I would have defiantly bought this one if it where auto.
  21. True, for basic web surfing & stuff then even an old AMD althon XP with ~1gig of ram running XP will do. The only "daily" use for the newer dual/quad cores I can think of atm is if you are playing 1080p HD videos... Vista = load of sh*t, currently even most games runs slower on it... My car has being neglected, while I use my savings for a new E8400 & 8800GTS computer >_>.
  22. So they don't insure skylines at all? Not even the cheapest 3rd party one? And here my dad kept on saying that he will just transfer the 3rd party RAC insurance from my mum's now deceased VN to my R33. Coz just car gave me a $350 quote for 3rd party, & both of my parents where like "WTF?! thats ridiculous, the VN's 3rd party is only $180 & Camry's full cover is ~$450", after hours of trying to explain to them the under 21/P-plate/turbo things, still not working >_>" Oh great >_>". Last time when I went to RAC with mum to change the family's camry cover from full down to 3rd party (full is useless, since both of my parents drive like grannys), I asked them if its possible to transfer the VN's (under my dad's name) to a R33 (also under his name). The lady at the counter said should be ok, but she can't do it since my dad was not present at the time. And when she aked what car it was my mum said skyline & she was like for about a minute then said sorry I don't know what car that is... never heard of it. >_>"
  23. Old car was my mum's 91 VN Commodore, with her "no service until it breaks".
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