Project-GT4-TT

r32-25t thanks for your input, I’m surprised to hear that given when you read info on them apparently they have 26 spline GM type input shaft same as Hollinger though it could be inferior metal. I’ve read through countless post on here and all you hear about is people saying anyone with a OS that hasn’t had a rebuild will need a rebuild soon but not very much in depth actual experience like they snapped an input shaft after X months and only done a few drags. Have been told the OS shifts nicer than the new PPG billet gearbox as was also considering PPG seeing as apparently they are better since they fixed issues with using stock Nissan bearings or something to that effect so not sure if this is only true to the billet case version or the new ones assembled in you case are better now though my thoughts was why try skimp another 10k and put the gearset in a stock case if that could be the reason you damage a gearset. I might try PM Piggaz seeing as he bought one about 2017 by what he spoke about in another post other than that will continue to consider the Albins and hopefully get to hear one in person before I commit. Thanks

The car was meant to be Vspec2 inspired, I have everything except the gearbox and considering the price of GETRAGs on the auctions lately I thought stuff it I may as well go a sequential and know that I won’t break it because I love abusing cars and want to know I can do a bit of track work and drags and not worry that I’m going to break something, not for competition just for fun TBH. I ended up buying a GETRAG on the auctions last night but was still planning on going a sequential and keeping the GETRAG aside for one day if I want to make the car original (well as original as a 4 door GTR can be) The fact that I now have a GETRAG on the way though makes me more inclined to go with the Albins because I was considering an OS88 if I can’t find anyone to take me for a drive with an Albins but considering I have the quiet gearbox to go back to if I want I would worry the OS88 is not the safe bet if I want to do silly launches. Even though OS list their gearbox good for 1500hp I have been suggested not to go above 1000hp if I get the OS88. Why did you end up going with the Albins over the OS if you don’t mind if I ask as I know people on here don’t rate the OS but a workshop I trust rates them and suggest if you get much issues it’s broken dogs from driver error.

Hey Predator, thanks for that, it’s so awesome I can’t stop watching it lol. My car is the 4 Door AWD non turbo skyline. I think I could put up with that more than when they put straight through mufflers on my NA car but probably not for more than 1 hour drives. I was just hoping that if I put some extra sound deadening in the floor (I know most people are trying to make the car lighter not heavier🤪) it might be bearable for long trips because I was going to sell my daily to help fund the project. You mind if I ask roughly what power you have?

Hi guys, I want to know if anyone that owns an Albins gearbox would mind taking me for a drive. As the title states happy to pay you for your time I just want to hear how loud the gearbox is to help decide if I think I could put up with it in my GT4. I’m in Sydney buying some parts until tomorrow (Tuesday 24/11/23 at 10am) then I’m back home to Perth so was just hoping my chances of finding someone while I’m in Sydney might be higher than finding someone in perth with one. If anyone can help even ask a friend that owns one would be greatly appreciated. Please call or txt in case I don’t see the notification from here. Kind regards, Aaron

As per the title states i just want to know if if anyone knows if the rear seat from a GT-R say would fit in my four door skyline. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Can a Mod please delete my first attached file it is incomplete and has a mistake in it?

I have attached the full updated file, I am no longer going down this route as i have managed to find a full R34 GTR wiring loom, so all i need to do is transplant the front and rear doors part of the gt4 loom into the gtr loom when i do my conversion.

2 GTR_Guage_Cluster_Conversion2.xls

I have managed to get messenger to function corectly by turning off "Protected mode" in (internet explorer)(tools)(internet options)(security tab) does everyone that has IE6 or above just use their internet with this feature turned off? Would i be better off using firefox? I'd rather not run my internet with this feature turned off because then i wont be prompted when a web page is trying to install something on my computer. Ive had enough trouble with viruses lately and am tired of having to reload windows on my computer, (its the easiest way to fix it when you have a really bad virus but it takes a long time) as such id rather not use IE6 with the feature disabled. Any sugestions as to what i should do?

Sorry got stuff i have to get done now, i will update this thread later, when i have the time to look for the crop button in "PAINT windows 7" Why cant we upload doccuments and spreadsheets? Sorry but i find it really frustrating that im trying to reply to someone about one of my threads about a mistake in one of my tutorials. AND due to the fact that i cant upload documents or spreadsheets along with the fact that my messenger wont work properly and again i cant upload pics of it for you because we cant upload documents. I know i says no winging but i will stop when someone can give me a good reason why we cant upload these files. I dont have a half hour to waste tonight just to get Bits of 5 "Print screen"s to fit in one paint file.

sorry i did get your reply but i cant let you know that for 30 seconds??????

pics of each page viewed saved in open office writer, sorry i havent loaded office on this computer yet. As you will see only after i reply does it list all 5 posts in the conversation Can not attach a document ... how do u want me to show pics of the problem?

Do you want me to do a print screen and save it in word?

For some reason if i open the msg only the first msg sent to me appears(even if there has been more sent to me since), but after i reply the rest of the conversation appears. Any help appreciated

Thanks SCR34MIN for the query on the fact that pin 25 was lised 2 times when it obviously shouldnt be. If i havent posted up a new copy of the document in the next couple of days please send me a pm. Anyone.

Please update files if you have downloaded. I will upload an updated doccument in the next couple of days as "SCR34MIN" queried the fact that i have listed pin 24 and 27 (original NON GTR pins) both to be moved to pin 25 ( move to NON GTR pin / GTR pin ) RE: columbs A, C, D at rows 47 and 50. C,47 and D47 should read pin number 28 i think (High Beam Ind. L) Going to get the guage cluster out of the shed now and test it. Sorry guys i thought i went over the whole service manual at 200% zoom to be sure that i didnt get any numbers wrong but ive re-checked it and because of the quality of the pdf its hard to tell but i think it should have been a 28 as listed above but i will confirm now.

When i open a personal conversation from my messenger box it is currently only bringing up the first pm sent to me. The only way i can see the most current post in the conversation is by reading the copy of the last reply in my email account. When i click on the 1 that is on the top right hand corner of my profile this comes up (this is the first post of the conversation, shouldnt i be able to see all four posts? or at the very least shouldnt it show me the most recent reply) Sent 10 June 2011 - 02:36 PM hey mate, i saw that you posted this topic on how to change a GTT cluster to a GTR. http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4218381 this is for the speedo instrument cluster yes? do you have pictures of it mate? thanks for your help! Please can someone reply via PM it has been like this since the webpage update. Thanks, Aaron

As per title I need 5 or 6 coilpacks, must be in good condition with no signs of swelling between the conector part and the top of the coil. Prefer you txt or call me on 0432 044 566. Thanks, Aaron.

writeup has been updated. the first one has been saved in open office the second one has been saved in excel, Delete the ".zls" its an excel file

My email is [email protected]

TriniGT I will download open office right now so i can have a look through my old writeups and send you everything i have via email. If i dont do it by 2moro night send me a pm or email as i will probably forget by the time i load office. Sorry i would send it all to you right now but barely any of them are named, just all called book1, book2 etc, dont know whats car stuff and what is other stuff.

What a joke I cant even sent a PM reply to TriniGT for another 2 minutes as ive made too many. What is with these stupid rules

Just adding my rant from another post in the hope thit it will be heard, answered and maby if im lucky... rectified. ... AND Can someone please give me a good reason why we cannot upload excel files??? WTF... as all my write ups i have done in excel, including a detailed one of where to get all the sensor inputs for installing the MFD, eg. what wires you need to get from the comp, attessa comp, guage cluster, new sensors, etc. I dont have the time right now to a*se about copying excel sheets into paint just to upload them here, i'm sure people would appreciate the countless hours i've spent looking at wiring diagrams to work out how to wire these thing up, and appreciate being able to download them from here rather than having to email me. Furthermore, i have just got a new computer and havent loaded office on it yet, so i cant even access the excell doccuments to to copy them into paint or something to change them into another format. Ive tried changing the name to .doc, and zipping them for memory. That doesnt work either. WHY make it sutch a pain in the a@@ to upload stuff. ... Just wasted a half hour uploding 25 pics to be returned an error msg as i didnt type anything. How dumb. Is there any way to select more than one pic at a time to upload ? This is just painfull doing it one at a time.

Just wasted a half hour uploding 25 pics to be returned an error msg as i didnt type anything. How dumb. Is there any way to select more than one pic at a time to upload ? This is just painfull doing it one at a time.

Just thought you would like to know there is only difference between a v-spec mfd and a normal one is the face plate and the tv switch. For memory you can get the face plate with the joystick circuit board with the tv switch comes with it for about $200. The extra sensors will register on the older MFD's, all you need to do is get the sensors, wire them up and put the MFD in service mode (with the car on flat level groung so the g-sensors register correctly), then drive around untill all the sensors register (they need to get up to their minimum temp.) (The boxes will go green) Then after you shut it down with all the sensors registered they will now come up every time you start the car. And reguarding the switch you could do what i did and put in your own for the 98 cents i paid for the switch fron jaycar. I'll attach some pictures. Some of the modifications i've done and am going to do i have made some write ups and put in the modifications section i think, including a detailed write up of my own plus other peoples info on the MFD (how to turn on the v-spec sensors, etc), but i havent added to it yet of how i put the switch in. MFD http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...fo-t223920.html Guage cluster conversion http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...lu-t241719.html When you look at the attached pictures you will understand the following: The switch is a momentary switch that when pushed 2 legs are connected to the other 2. The 2 bent legs are straightened as these are the ones i used due the location of them. The other 2 legs are cut off. The piece of clear plastic that transmits the light to the TV button was cut off (type of switch i used diddn't allow this to fit so was removed) I had another switch that had a light in it but decided on the one i used as it fitted the hole much better (the one with the light was slightly smaller. The face plate was lightly centre punched, pilot drilled and drilled out with about a 10mm drill bit. The switch i had was found to sit too low, so i added another piece of linned PCB inbetween the switch and the MFD board. This involved cutting the switch legs off so the didnt pertrude past the front of the board(non copper side). Hooked shaped legs were bent up and soldered to the PCB board, with the leggs poking out of the front of the board. (were hooked so that when the other end of the leg is soldered to the MFD board they dont drop out from both). Switch was soldered to the back side of board (need to put the soldering iron in from the side of the switch, between the swich and the board)(this is so the front side of the board, the non copper lined side sits firmly on the MFD board). Now that you have the switch ready on the small square board it can be soldered to the MFD board. Then put everything back together. BTW the lined PCB board i used was a 1cm x 1cm offcut from a 20cm x 10cm Proto type board from jaycar, cost about $12. If you want i can draw some lines in the pics of locations of the holes i put the switch in, legs etc. Or I could just make you up a switch on a piece of board and post it to you. Thats if you buy a MFD that doesnt originnally come with the swich. If you look im my MFD post you will see the TV function working before i put in the switch.