Project-GT4-TT

For anyone interested here's a copy of a PM i sent someone reguarding adding a TV button to a non v-spec MFD. Sorry i havent found the time to do a detailed write up yet. AND Can someone please give me a good reason why we cannot upload excel files??? WTF... as all my write ups i have done in excel, including a detailed one of where to get all the sensor inputs for installing the MFD, eg. what wires you need to get from the comp, attessa comp, guage cluster, new sensors, etc. I dont have the time right now to a*se about copying excel sheets into paint just to upload them here, i'm sure people would appreciate the countless hours i've spent looking at wiring diagrams to work out how to wire these thing up, and appreciate being able to download them from here rather than having to email me. Furthermore, i have just got a new computer and havent loaded office on it yet, so i cant even access the excell doccuments to to copy them into paint or something to change them into another format. Ive tried changing the name to .doc, and zipping them for memory. That doesnt work either. WHY make it sutch a pain in the a@@ to upload stuff.

I would guarantee this will work, i have only confrimed half of the sensors on my GTR guage cluster with a peg board and a car battery as i havent put it in my car yet but i have confrimed nearly every pinout for my mfd conversion is correct when i set it up on a peg board. Have a look at my MFD post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...fo-t223920.html

I have to admit im a bit of a perfectionist, some might say OCD. But after having the honda key barrel fail prematurely, due to the use of a worn key and previous owners having to much sh*t hanging off their key chain. This cost $540 to replace the barrel so I'd rather have the nissan key cut properly. When I replaced the honda key barrel, all i had to do was put in a working key, turn it to the on position, push in a lever and the key pulled out with the barrel on it (separate to the housing that is bolted to the steering coloum with the two security bolts that the heads break off when they are done up) This enables you have the key barrel re-keyed in the event say a thief or someone has a copy of your key. Ive done it on a honda, ford, holden, suzuki, so i would have thought there is a straight forward way to get the nissan one out. I would just pull out the door or boot barrel but i would be pissed off if i go to the effort of getting one of those out only to find out it might not have the same number of pins as the ignition barrel ie. 8 points instead of 10. I know if i got the current key i have copied it would work but i know it wouldnt be as accurate as getting it cut to code, when i replaced the honda key barrel i had one key cut to code and went back a week later to get a spare made, asked the guy to cut it to the code and he said nuhh it will be just as good on the normal copy machine. Just cos he couldn't be f**ked setting up the other machine. and i could see with my eyes that it was miles off let alone measuring the difference, you could feel the normal copy girnded the barrel so it went in the bin and i told the to do another one properly. I like doing things right the first time and not having to fix stuff ups later cos it wasnt done right in the first place. If anyone could shed some light on how to remove the barrel without geting out a drill, dremel etc to remove the whole housing i would be extremly gratefull. Sorry for the life story, just trying to explain why i want to do it this way.

I only have one key and it is really worn, i have a spare blank that i got some time ago but for the $400 or so it cost me from nissan i dont want to have it wruined by using the old worn key to make a copy. I want to know how to get my ignition barrel out so i can get the waffers out to work out the code of the key. I done this my old honda prelude and it was qiute simple but i just cant work it out for the skyline, on the honda all you had to do put the key in turn it to the on possition push in a pin and pull out the key with the barrel on it. You didnt have to unbolt it from the steering coloum to get the inner barrel out. If anyone knows how to do this on the skyline your help is greatly appreciated.

Did you take it to a mechanic to be bled? I ask because one day i was trying to bleed a clutch that had gotten completely dry and due to the fact that there was so much air in the line it would just not make up enough pressure to bleed the air out. The only way i could get the air out was to leave the bleed valve open and quickly pump the clutch pedal in and out untill some fluid came out. Then it had to be bled in the normal fashion to get the bubbly fluid out. I dont know if ure having the same problem but from what you're saying about it not retracting without pressure sounds similar because when i was doing it there was just so little pressure the pedal would just not come back out by itself. It had to be phisically pulled back to pump it again. Took about 20 pumps before i got any fluid through. Only going in half way doesnt sound good though, still worth a shot at trying it the way i said. Hopefully it will come right after you get good pressure. Goodluck.

After soo long i have only just found out that i left out the second half of this doccument out, thanks Smity42. Also i have made some corrections since i first posted this but if i can remember correctly they were only to pin function descriptions not to actual pin numbers. My current corrections are on a hard copy, when i get time i will get out the hard copy fix it up and repost it.

I dont mean to make you lose a sale but just so "Johnboyhardy" knows, im pretty shure a GTR condenser will not fit into a GT-T as the GTR the canister is located in front of the condenser on the drivers side whereas the GTT and GT condensers have the canister located on the passenger side behind the condenser, now that doesnt matter to much all you would need to do is reroute the wires execpt the fittings dont look like they match aswell. It looks like the top fitting will line up the same (the one coming off the side tank of the condenser that feeds the compressor), but i doubt the lower one will as in the GTT the lower fitting faces down to bolt down to the canister and then the line continues up out of the canister to cabin. I havent seen in person the rear side of a GTR condenser so i cant say for sure wether the lower line will not bolt up but i doubt it will as the're both very different. Good luck with the sale, if i had the money i would buy nearly all of this stuff from you.

Just so people know if it will fit their car i have two BM-50's one is off a R32-GTR and one off a R34-Gt-T, the only difference is the reservoir shape and shape/size of low fluid connector. Hope this helps with the sale.

I have searched but have not been able to find any info so anyone's help is greatly appreciated. If it comes to I will just start pulling things apart and measuring lengths, bolt up patterns etc. but if anyone knows that would be good. I have a R34 Gt-4 (4-Door) (with a AWD auto box) and am putting a Rb26 in it but the box i got with it is a 5 Speed from a R32 GTR, I want to know if anyone that has put a Getrag in a R32 and if so did the shafts have to be modified, why and how, is the Getrag box longer. Im going to put the 32 box in first but i want to know if the 32 box fits straight in does that mean if i want to put the Getrag in later will the shafts have to be modified and (does anyone know if the 32 box will go straight in my 34) Thanks, Aaron

If you have a stick (arc) welder or can borrow one i would recommend buying some rods called "allweld" rods i use them with my mates welder and there fkn great. They're made to weld stainless to non-stainless but work great for anything. dont know if you can get it for a MIG but i would be surprised if you couldn't.

Please excuse me noticing that was going to double check everything today cos it was late, have realised that the boost sensor i have listed is a different one, it is located on the read of the coil pack cover whereas the correct one if you have it will be in the drivers side of your engine bay next to the brake booster. I checked the symbols that they use in the service manual and the sensor going to pin 47 had the same symbol as the one listed for the tripple meter thats why i thought it was the right one. Also in the service manual it shows a sensor called a turbine sensor (only on tiptronic/auto- which ever one it is) going to pin 59 of the ECU... can anyone confirm whether that one is the boost sensor for the tripple meter, cos i would say its not as the symbol for the plug is not correct? just seems silly that tere would be 2 or 3 boost sensors.

im pretty sure all of the nismo dash plug straight in with no mods so yes the same thing would work for adding a nismo tripple meter, but if youre asking about using a nismo GTR Main guage cluster in a GTT you will obviously have to do the same modifications as putting in a standard GTR Main guage cluster

Tripple meter - Guage Cluster - Function ____________________________- ECU(Computer) 1__________ -_____________ - Boost Sensor _______________________- 47 4__________ - 54___________ - ILL (Backlight-on with headlights) (+ve) _- 9__________ - 51___________ - ILL and lamps Ground (-ve) ___________- 10_________ - 55___________ - Meter circuit Ground (-ve) _____________- 14_________ - 29___________ - Ignition (+ve) _______________________- 17_________ - _____________- Oil Temp. Sens. ______________________- 60 Just trying again so i know what works for next time i try to make a table.

Tripple meter - Guage Cluster - Function - ECU(Computer) 1 - - Boost Sensor - 47 4 - 54 - ILL (Backlight-on with headlights) (+ve) - 9 - 51 - ILL and lamps Ground (-ve) - 10 - 55 - Meter circuit Ground (-ve) - 14 - 29 - Ignition (+ve) - 17 - - Oil Temp. Sens. - 60 Hopefully this is a bit easier to read. It looked straight in word.

Yeah, when i say main guage cluster im talking about the one behind your steering wheel. Tripple meter- Guage Cluster - Function -ECU(Computer) 1 - - Boost Sensor - 47 4 - 54 - ILL (Backlight-on with headlights) (+ve) - 9 - 51 - ILL and lamps Ground (-ve) - 10 - 55 - Meter circuit Ground (-ve) - 14 - 29 - Ignition (+ve) - 17 - - Oil Temp. Sens. - 60 Tripple meter pinout 1 - - 4 x x - - - - 9 10- - - 14 - 17 - - - - This is looking at the wire side of the harness connector, with the pins facing away from you. Or just looking at the pins on the tripple meter (-) Represent free pin holes (x) represent the clip Sorry i havent worked it out for the other end of the harness (the end with just 6 pins, the one you have to hook up) might go down the shed tommorro and look for you but im shure you can tell by the colours which are which. For the Main Guage cluster pin out download the word doccument that is on my LINKED POST on how to convert from GT to GTR guage cluster The ecu pins 47 and 60 are... looking at the wireside of the connector again, with the raised section with the bolt at the top. There are 7 groups of pins, 3 on the left 4 on the right 47 is in the (6th) section and is the top right pin. 60 is in the (6th) section and is one spot to the right of the bottom left pin. Good luck and I hpe this helps. By the way you should be able to reuse the (Ground -ve), (Ignition +ve) and the (illumination +ve) from the harness that branches off to your old pop-up screen, if you have a multimeter or test lamp, but i have included where to connect them to your Main Guahe Cluster just in case you dont know how to do it, im shure you should though. the less wires to add the better im my opinion. If you want a hand working out which those three wires are i could pull my screen out and do it for you. Just send me a PM if you want.

The part # for the sub harness for the tripple meter is 24018 AA500 in case you need it (its about 40cm long with one female plug on one end, that goes into the guages and one male plug on the other end with 6 wires)

When i say gauge cluster conversion i mean the main one with the tacho and your speed is the conversion that i allready worked out. I would have thought it just pluged straight in, but it doesnt, you still use the same connectors, just have to rearrange the pins. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...lu-t241719.html

if you dont have the sub harness for the triple guage unit you can but it from nissan for about $30 i know because when i ordered the sub harness for my GTR MFD the guy at nissan asked if had a GTT cos he had another customer after the harness to do the same thing you are doing, i dont have a GTT but i have a spare dash in the shed which still has the sub harness in it so i know the part number. I'll go down the shed tomorro n look for you what it is. once you have that piece of harness all you need to do is cut the connector off the end that doesnt plug into the guage unit, lengthen the wires and and join them to the appropriate wires on your main guage cluster. Or you can be anal like me and do what im doing which is pulling each pin out of the connectors, then using the old connectors from your screen unit that are behind the main guage unit and rearranging them, need to cut some wires still and join them to different wires from the main guage unit but it just means you still have a plug in between like it originally is. Its a bit hard to explain what i mean in writing. I have a copy of the 34 service manual so i could work out for you which wires to join where if you would like. Send me a PM and let me know if you want me to work it out for you. I have worked out and written up how to convert from a GT to a GTR Guage cluster allready for my car, i have poasted it up here in the (Tut,DIY,FAQ) and the (audio and security) sections (accidently posted it in both) have a look if you feel like it cos i could type up something simalar if you like.

Part number for the cover to go over the MFD is 68411-AA400 if anyone else has bought an MFD and is after the plastic cover for it.

i got it from the for sale forum here, but if ure after one i would suggest importmonster.com.au or slidewizeimports.com.au I paid $1100 If you but one you will most likely not get the piece of harness with it but you can get it from nissan for about $200, the part number for it is in one of my other posts in the Tutorials and DIY section

dont know if this will work but might be worth a shot. My mate used to have a honda crx and the abs started cutting in when braking softly in the dry when it shouldnt be. he took it to someone and they said the problem was that the splined metal ring thing around the outer CV joint just behind the hub that the sensor uses to tell when a wheel has locked up was filthy so the sensor wasnt reading right, they cleaned all four and presto the breaks worked perfectly. I know its abs, not traction control that im talking about but they work similary so cleaning the things might help.

Thats a bit gay, anyway thanks Paul. Had trouble trying to remove the ".xls" so i used "print screen and put it in word. Here it is. R34_GTR_Guage_Cluster_conversion.doc

I want to swap the the pop up lcd for a GTR MFD i have bought. I have bought the sub harness from nissan that goes from the MFD to the connectors behing the guage cluster the old pop up screen has two connectors and the new one has three and they are not the same. so i have male and female connectors form the old harness and want to use them Basically i wanted the pinout of the connectors behind the guage cluster so i could pull out each pin from the (pop up lcd sub harness) connectors and put the connectors on the MFD sub harness. The (pop up lcd sub harness) has about 24 wires and 4 free spots for wires, and the MFD harness has 48 wires. I have another connector from a Honda harness i can use for the rest of the wires. Know the stock Navi unit is useless here but i wanted to connect all the wires for it so that later when i replace it i can use the MFD as the screen for the new navi unit. I have a scope and the R34 GTR service manual has pics of what the signal looks like but to replicate the signals it gives instuctions to press buttons on the navi unit and mine is FAULTY (i get some blue screen with JAP writing and cant make it turn off or anything) so i dont think I'll be able to work it out that way. I was just hoping someone might know which wire is which to save me time trying to work it out myself. Thanks.

Woops, i meant to put this in the DIY forum

Just fished some instructions on how to swap your guage cluster for a gtr one. I havent done this yet so i cant confirm it works when i have finished it i will post pics but that might not be for a while because i want to take the dash out when i do it to run the wires for my MFD aswell but cant afford to be without my car for now. I worked it out using the service manuals. It involves pulling every wire pin out of its connector and rearanging them, also making some wires shorter and some longer. I wrote the instructions refering to my R34 GT-4 which does not have HICAS which is why the HICAS ROW is coloured blue. The connector pin numbers are in the doccument, an example of what to do is (Drivers door switch signal) PIN # 2, move to PIN # 52, on the third connector, therefore the wire will have to be made longer. IMPORTANT: I wrote the columb on wether the wires have to be made longer or shorter based on the fact that i guessed that the wires would come from the left, i havent pulled my guages out yet so therefore do not know if this is right... obviously if the wires come from the right just do the opposite. I would suggest labling every wire before you start removing them because you dont want to stuff something up. Im going to buy a DYMO lable maker and put the move to # on every one the pull them all out then put them back where there meant to be. Just a suggestion. Can someone please tell me why i cant upload EXCEL doccuments, should i be able to, and then i will post the instructions up.