gumflapper

hahaha... thats sum funny shit... lol yeh it hurt my eyes 2...

thats considerably faster then mine PB of 14.03... also happened 2 b my 1st ever run... lol ive got a pretty sock 33 gtst... std turbo, 3" t-back zorst... pod, FMIC, PFC + H/C... ive just finished installing my kill switch and PowerFC into my 33... im not sure how "hard" i can push the PFC without a tune... im gonna go and get 1 soon but atm its ok 2 drive 2 and from work... redbank plaza should be a pretty good location 2 meet... but like u said... some ppl will be going backwards...

driver 2 was pretty good... i still remember when i convinced my parents 2 buy it 4 x-mas or b'day... i said in a really excited voice "ohhh, but in this 1 u can get out of the car and run around..." unknown 2 me that was all he could do... run around! lol it workded tho

whats in ur new engine... i mite head down... something diff on a wed nite... im on the sth side... where abouts r u?

welcome

"type of file" refers to the "filename.***" the *** part is the file type. jpg, doc, txt, mpg are file types... probably the most common image file is jpg. when u scan the file, save the file as "image.jpg" if u can...

y is that? just shithouse piece of electronics? it doesnt look 2 bad... then again... the price is pretty cheap

once its scanned, save it as a jpg file or something... when u post again, look down and right and ull c a "Browse..." button. click on that and find the file u saved. click ok. click the green "UPLOAD" button and wait... thats it... yeh "kill switch" is kind of a wrong name... should be something more like "start switch" or something...

or perhaps get some from work that is actually a really good idea... now im thinking... u could also use a coded magnet... unless u have the specific magnet and sensor, uve got no chance in starting the car... we use them all the time at work in our machines...

this should help... http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm paulr33 knows his sh*t... any questions ask him...

+1 for that... ive had mine in and out and its worked fine in or out... on the ecu diagram and pinout 50, 60, 107, 108 & 116 are all grounded... y wuld u want 2 move ur ecu anyways?

there are already two topics on this in this section of the forum... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ki...ch-t206288.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...ty-t206433.html perhaps those may help... or if ur a bit clever and patient, design and build ur own...

well i spent a good part of saturday on this... and now it works... it was a bit harder then i thought it would be but in the end it was worth the work... i just got back from a "test drive" as it were and no problems what so ever... i cannot start the car unless i hit the push button and then away she goes... i can only energise the relays once the car is turned over to the "ON" position... the "ACC" wont allow power to the relays and the relays will stay energised untill the car is turned off... i chose 2 cut 16, 18 & 43... i have the option (if i decide to later) to cut more I/O to the ECU but unless i have a good enuf reason to do this, i dont think it is necessary... ill probably post up a "how to" on how to do this later on... that is, when i get all my shit together... lol parts costed me <$50 and a bit of electrical know how... its not as hard as it seems but it is "hard" to go cutting wires to the ECU, especially when uve just bought a PFC...

spotted "MRR34" last nite in the city as well as another nice silver 34 with qld plates... was quite interesting acutally... this other guy took off hard and cut infront of MRR34 and then it was on we kept up for a while in my 33 then we all got caught at a set of lights then we all went our seperate ways... also saw "CME33" 2day heading towards the city at the main/kessels rd intersetion... i was behind u...

It will modify any standard ECU by telling the ECU that the incoming air in the intake system is cold and so advances the ignition by up to 2 degrees with more fuelling to compensate, therefore producing more power with more torque at lower revs. In many cases fuel economy is increased too. so... u put more fuel in and then fuel economy is increased... ive missed something... lol

a guy i play ice hockey with has a niiiiice black bmw with the plates "MYOFB" haha

yeh... i guess sometimes when they blow it only takes out fractions of a mm so anyone is gonna have fun trying to find it...

were u able to test them with a multimeter or did u just do a visual inspection? IF u can get ur hands on a multimeter, use that... i did a visual inspection on my fuses in my old mitsubishi ages ago about 5 times... missed the stuffed fuse 5 times... only with the multimeter i was able to determine which fuse had blown...

************************************************************* *** OEM BIOS Emulation Toolkit For Windows Vista x86 v1.0 *** ************************************************************* What's the purpose of this release? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bypassing the product activation requirement of Microsoft Windows Vista x86. How does it work? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Microsoft allows large hardware manufacturers (e.g. ASUS, HP, Dell) to ship their products containing a Windows Vista installation that does NOT require any kind of product activation as this might be considered an unnecessary inconvenience for the end-user. Instead these so-called 'Royalty OEMs' are granted the right to embed certain license information into their hardware products, which can be validated by Windows Vista to make obtaining further activation information (online or by phone) obsolete. This mechanism is commonly referred to as 'SLP 2.0' ('system-locked pre-installation 2.0') and consists of the following three key elements: 1. The OEM's hardware-embedded BIOS ACPI_SLIC information signed by Microsoft. 2. A certificate issued by Microsoft that corresponds to the specific ACPI_SLIC information. The certificate is an XML file found on the OEM's installation/recovery media, ususally called something like 'oemname.xrm-ms'. 3. A special type of product key that corresponds to the installed edition of Windows Vista. This key can usually be obtained from some installation script found on the OEM's installation/recovery media or directly from a pre-installed OEM system. If all three elements match Windows Vista's licensing mechansim considers the given installation a valid system-locked pre-activated copy (that does not require any additional product activation procedures). So the basic concept of the tool at hand is to present any given BIOS ACPI_SLIC information to Windows Vista's licensing mechanism by means of a device driver. In combination with a matching product key and OEM certificate this allows for rendering any system practically indistinguishable from a legit pre-activated system shipped by the respective OEM. How do I use it? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Preliminary hint: Most operations described below require elevated privileges, so disabling UAC (Run->MSCONFIG.EXE-> Tools->Disable UAC) for the time being is recommended, Of course, it can be safely re-enabled after all steps have been performed. Otherwise OEMTOOL.EXE and some SLMGR.VBS operations must be explicitly run with adminstrative privileges. 1. Install the Windows Vista x86 edition of your choice without entering any product key during setup. Basically any Windows Vista x86 installation media will do, regardless if it's MSDN/Retail/OEM/..., MSDN/Retail are recommended though. 2. Install the emulation driver. Run OEMTOOL.EXE, select the OEM BIOS information to emulate (ASUS might be a good choice given the fact that it's the only OEM for which a complete set of product keys is provided ) and hit the '<Install Emulation Driver>' button. Alternatively you can just right-click the ROYAL.INF file and chose 'Install' from the appearing menu. This only allows for installing the default OEM BIOS information (ASUS) though and is strongly discouraged unless OEMTOOL.EXE fails for some unknown reason. When prompted about whether to install an unsigned driver, allow it. (For some odd reason Microsoft didn't wanna sign this one...) 3. Reboot your machine. 4. Install the OEM certificate matching your OEM selection during driver installation by running SLMGR.VBS -ilc <OEMNAME>.XRM-MS (e.g. "SLMGR.VBS -ilc C:\ASUS.XRM-MS" if you chose to install the default driver and extracted the certificate file to C:\) Note that this operation might take quite a while depending on your system, so be patient. 5. Install an OEM product key matching the installed edition of Windows Vista x86 by running SLMGR.VBS -ipk <OEM_PRODUCT_KEY> (e.g. "SLMGR.VBS -ipk 6F2D7-2PCG6-YQQTB-FWK9V-932CC" if you're running Windows Vista Ultimate using the default emulation driver) Note that this operation might take quite a while depending on your system, so be patient. See PKEYS.TXT for a list of OEM product keys published by different OEMs. 6. Run 'SLMGR.VBS -dlv' or right-click 'Computer' and chose 'Properties' to verify your licensing status. Due to the variety of possible combinations of different earlier Vista activation hacks we're not gonna provide details on 'persuading' existing installations to accept this method. During our test the general procedure depicted above worked out fine though, i.e. installing the emulation driver, rebooting the machine and then using the officially documented ways of installing a matching OEM certificate and product key should do the trick in all but the most messed up cases. What's that '<Dump OEM BIOS Information>' button in OEMTOOL.EXE for? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ It dumps the BIOS ACPI_SLIC information of any SLP 2.0-enabled OEM system. The dump can consecutively be used to emulate ('clone') that information on any other system by specifying the 'Custom' option. Using this function on a system booted using the emulation driver will give a dump identical to the currently emulated OEM BIOS information, so be sure to uninstall the driver and reboot the source machine first if you intend to dump the actual hardware-embedded OEM BIOS data. What are all those files for? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DIFXAPI.DLL - a runtime dll for Microsoft's DIFx API used by oemtool.exe OEMTOOL.EXE - an application for installing/uninstalling the emulation driver and dumping BIOS ACPI_SLIC information from any SLP 2.0-enabled Windows Vista OEM system PKEYS.TXT - contains a list of validated OEM product keys README.TXT - this file ROYAL.INF - driver .INF file, can be (ab)used to install the emulation driver in case oemtool.exe fails to perform this task ROYAL.SYS - the emulation device driver CERTS\ACER.XRM-MS - the certificate that corresponds to the ACPI_SLIC information emulated by the driver when 'Acer' has been selected during driver installation CERTS\ASUS.XRM-MS - the certificate that corresponds to the ACPI_SLIC information emulated by the driver when 'ASUS' has been selected during driver installation CERTS\HEWLETT-PACKARD.XRM-MS - the certificate that corresponds to the ACPI_SLIC information emulated by the driver when 'Hewlett-Packard' has been selected during driver installation CERTS\LENOVO.XRM-MS - the certificate that corresponds to the ACPI_SLIC information emulated by the driver when 'Lenovo' has been selected during driver installation and yes... it does work...

some photots so far as promised... Button and Switches Completed Wiring of 4-Pole Relays ill keep taking photos of this installation and ill post them all up on here with a description on parts and how to install once completed...

i actually got the swtches and relays form jaycar on logan road at underwood... im actually half way thru doing this now... i started it yesterday but i forgot to bring my crimpers home from work so i can finish it... DAMMIT!!! all ive used is 2 x 4-Pole relays (with bases and relay clips) 2 x small red switches 1 x small black push button small strip of din rail and some multi-core cable from work ive wired it up as such so that to start the car... there is a main switch (1) that must always remain on (unless u never wanna start the car) another switch (2) that must remain on... and a push button (3) that is used to allow the car to start... if (2) is not switched in the on position then pressing (3) wont allow the realys to hold in and the car cannot be started... but if (2) is in the on position, then by pressing (3) the relays will latch closed, allowing the car to be started... im using the relays to cut some of the wires to the ecu... also, being an electrician has helped me... lol ill post some of the photos ive taken so far later on today... im on my laptop atm and they're on me other computer...

thats exactly what im afraid of doing...

uh ok... so out of curiosity... how TIGHT is tight? i think its tight enuf... (probably wrong)

should i disconnect the battery first or doesnt it really matter?

oh ok... y have i never had this problem before with the stock ecu? driving home from tafe 2day, i didnt see the engine light once (throttle sensor -> +-0.36V) but the car kept hunting... 800 jump to 1,400 drop to 800 jump to 1,400 and so on... ive read the "My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do?" in the FAQ, but why didnt any of these problems show up when i first connected the Power FC?