ovrtym33

what condition is the steering wheel in?? is it a series 1 or 1.5??

i was stopped the other day on my way to work at 4am, turned down a side street to cut out traffic lights, cop car saw me and did a u turn n folllowed me after i cut through a few sides street until south road then eventually pulled me over, by the time he got to my car another cop pulled in front of me and another along side of me, so had 3 in total with their lights flashing blocking me in, so obiously thought it was stolen and i was gonna do a runner so he called in for back up, checked my license and asked why i took side streets and not main road n told him why and where i was going then let me go

ive got a wine red 33 with a forged motor 350rwkw pm me if u interested and ill give you all the details of it

u dont need a ratchet set to get them out just a phillips head, u need to unscrew it from underneath the car leaving the bracket still connected to the bottom of the light (2 screws each bracket) i have done it a few times what area u at, if close i might be able to drop in after work n show u tomoz

what ever its cost you then times that by 2 or 3 and thats how much i have prob spent im too scared to add up all my receipts im over it!

series 1 have a greyish insert series 2 is blueish i have some series 1 front n rear series door trims if u intersted but thats only if Mitch hasn't got the ones you want or if he has buy his 1st

wel they didn't f**ken handle me very well all Boostworx said to me was "we just blew your motor on the dyno by leaning out piston 6 and blew the ringlands, you can come pick your car up now" NO APOLOGY at all especillay after i had just spent over $10,000 there!!!!!!!!!!!!! -10000000000000

pics of stering wheel, condition?? thanks

^^^yep agree with Luke and Steve mine is set on 23psi high setting all the time, no point in having a low setting, just control ya boost with ya accelartor plus you dont have to press any buttons

yep id have to agree that it was the tuner so taking it to boost worx was ya 1st mistake they tend to tune to the very limits of ya engine so that u get a high power reading and the customer walks away with a smile on their face, even tho ya car is running on the border of major detonation everytime u boost it trust me i have 1st hand experience of how they tune, after spending big $$$$ with them i had to keep taking the car back repeatedly to get timing taken out, then they blew my engine on the dyno by leaning the car out and blowing piston 6 ring lands tryn to fix their problems did u ever notice the engine warning light come on?? or get a print out of air/fuel ratios when u got ya dyno print out?? and get rid of that gtr fuel pump

im running cams with a lumpy idle and i didn't have a problem at all when i went through regency

Ryan ring up that import compliance place that used to be next to Japanese import spares, they installed mine for regency the nuts bolts n brackets cost them stuff all but its the labour that cost the most, took him about 1 1/2 hours to fit and cost me about $130 im sure someone on here no's the name

plus camsad valve springs $1000+ rods $800+ head gasket $300+ as you said above it depends who builds it you go for a cheap build then u gonna get what u payed for i had mine built by peter Hall when he was at Willall hence the price i paid n i supplied a few of the parts aswell

for a good reliable engine it will cost MORE!!!

do you have steering wheel??? series 1 preffered

have u got the series 1 steering wheel?? if so what condition it in??

if i go u can come with me Craiggy boy, ill even maybe let u drive PM please

its the final tune i'd be worried about goodluck

ahahah +1

i have a series 1 throttle body somewhere, not sure what the other thing looks like, post a pic so i no what it looks like

the mechanic/workshop that serviced your car, was he the same guy who tuned your car???

was it the ringland that went??? what caused piston six to let go????

do u have an aftermarket exaust manifold, if so is it stainless steel???? when i had my old xforce manifold it cracked around the welds (on 2 manifolds) leading up to the flange, could tell it was cracked coz i could hear a tikcing noise it didnt make any difference to performance tho coz we still proceeded to dyno it and still pulled over 300

after having my clutch in for over 3 years now im still getting use to it (then again i dont drive it much), stilll gottr slip/ride it, if u dont dont sumtimes u will stall and its an absolute bastrd bastard to drive in traffic with it, too aggressive with a lot of bite

Yes