mystery_kid

well no one specified GTT or GTR IMO each of the cars look like the era they were designed in and there. 18's don't suit r32's, they look like the 80's and 19's and 20's don't suit r34 GTT's the rubber band tyres on that blue r34 posted earlier look ridiculous to me

did a bit more research, it is sounding like my TPS could be the issue

it runs really nice when it's cold, nicer now that i've changed all the vac hoses. when i finished fixing it yesterday i let it warm right up and then i took it for drive around giving it a good squirt and it was fine i drive to work this morning which is only a 10 - 15 minute drive and like clockwork at around 65º~ it just starts being a flamin mongrel when i back off, idling high etc

so an update, i finally go around to changing all of the vacuum hoses which was fine. changed out shitty looking blue silicon ones puts on by a previous owner at some point for black rubber ones long story short, hasn't made any difference at all in the past couple of weeks once it gets to the temperature where it all starts to back off and idle shit the TCS / Slip lights have been coming on sometimes and even when i am backing off down a hill the engine light comes on sometimes, when i get back on the power the engine light will turn off again. to be clear the coil packs are fine they are aftermarket items i put in myself a couple of years ago after i bought the car, it runs fine under power there is no missing. those lights can come on sometimes when i'm not even moving at a set of lights could it be something like the AFM?

Definitely 18's My car with xt-7's

Sorry I meant is it a group IV as oppose to a group III

so is nulon's touted 'fully synthetic' range actually hitting that mark? it's so hard to work out what is and isn't actually fully synthetic because the line seems to blurred

in saying that maybe i will investigate plumbing it back, just to be on the safe side

yeh it's been fine since i bought the car back in 2011 up until earlier this year

it is an atmo bov, it was like that when i bought the car and all the inlet piping is custom from the throttle body to the intercooler so swapping back to stock is kind of out of the question regardless i've never had any of the problems others have with atmo bov's and stalling i think i will change all my vacuum hoses, i'm over the tacky blue ones the car came with anyway

yeah i have an aftermarket bov but it has never been a problem until recently sometimes when it's playing games with me i can just rev the tits out of it in neutral to like redline and it will make it go away for a while, i do that when it's being really annoying

Hello gang, so for a while now my car has been doing some weird and annoying shit, it happens mostly when i back off the accelerator - it's like the throttle doesn't back off completely, it will still cruise almost on it's own before finally backing off. same when i change gears because the revs don't drop off properly sometimes it sounds like when you get back on the revs to early when changing gear also at idle sometimes, not that often but sometimes it will just climb in revs up to like 1200 / 1400 for a while and then drop off back to 800/900 my first thought was IAV but i'm pretty sure there are a bunch of things that can f**k with idle, has anyone has this problem in particular when backing off? thanks

fair enough, knew i made this thread for a reason heh Thanks

sorry for thread spam but this seems far more likely my problem than the previous thread today short story: driving R34 GTT to work this morning, car just turns off while driving along. it just won't start again, it turns over with the key but just won't fire so from some reading it sounds pretty likely to be the CAS, i am going to test further to make sure my question is, can i use any RB25 cas in my car? i have read a bit and picked up some info here and there sort of pointing to the fact that i can use any rb25 cas but i guess i would just like to be 100% sure Thanks gais

ok i think the problem isn't my alternator anyway, but you're probably right i think R33 would fit looks more likely to be CAS related

So i *think* my alternator is gone anyway my question is, what are peoples options with replacing alternators? does the r33 alternator go straight on to the neo engine without any hassles? are the r34 ones reconditionable? i have contacted alternator place and they can't seem to find information on it i'm not that keen on just buying a second hand one and waiting for the same thing to happen again i have rang nissan and they wanted $1400 for a new one lul

just take it to an exhaust shop and tell them the problem, they will fabricate a new mount somewhere to fix the problem

has anyone here had any experience with Blitz ZZR coilovers? i've read a few good reviews on other sites regarding their streetability

You can do as above and prob spend a day doing it, then wait for the next hose to leak Or you can spend a day and a half maybe 2 and replace all hoses and clamps and not have to worry for a lot longer than you will own the car

Why have you got big brake upgrade high on your list? Do you take your car on the track a lot? The stock brakes are highly effective for quite a while if you upgrade the pads and rotors before you need to go spendkng thousands on bigger brakes

If you braided line looks crushed, yes tht is bad and won't last Put it this way you wouldn't be asking that question if you thought it was going to be ok

Tough job to do for someone without every tool, i did that hose along with all the other coolant hoses under and around the plenum. You really need to take the plenum off to do it unfortunately if anyone else has any better ideas though.... You'll need the correct hose from nissan too Personally i'd just do all of the hoses and clamps at the same time in 1 weekend and do it properly by taking the plenum off

Try youtube

pics or lying

Hah $13k for a r32 gtst I hope it came with $6k worth of extras