mystery_kid

I don't get this obligation you think there shiuld be to wave at other skyline drivers.. You bought a skyline.. grats

Yes because lowering your car is unique, such a trend setter

East Coast Customs at Virginia always do a good job

i'd be sending those coil packs back ASAP

i'd stop talk to all these people that don't have a clue ie. your grant parents and whoever is telling you about this exemption

Shit website kept telling there was a database problem everytime i posted

That is the vaccum hose that triggers the BOV when the pressure changes from positive to negative when you back off Also seriously it is spelt hose, did you not complete grade 7?

That is the vaccum hose that triggers the BOV when the pressure changes from positive to negative when you back off Also seriously it is spelt hose, did you not complete grade 7?

That is the vaccum hose that triggers the BOV when the pressure changes from positive to negative when you back off Also seriously it is spelt hose, did you not complete grade 7?

Bigger question is why would you bother with a nissan fuel filter?

you won't get the exemption because they won't accept a dyno read out as the power figure anyone could go and get their car detuned to a low dyno read out to send in with their exemption application and then head back down to the tuners the next day and get it tune back to 200rwkw.... have you considered this ?

So what are the rules with getting an exemption? Is the standard rule for kw/t less than 130 but you can get an exemption up to 130 kw/t for whatever reason?

you're doing something wrong if 595ss aren't holding on during daily driving

hearts going to be broken up in this thrad

I ended up selling my r32 after the 3rd time this happened, when it first happened i had the manifold machined so i can only assume the head wasn't straight which makes sense as the previous owner over heated the engine which cracked and warped the head a d instead of just replacing the head he spent 2k getting the head welded and shaved lol So yeah if the 2 faces aren't flat you're going to have problems and make sure you use a genuine nissan gasket not some ebay junk

turns out it was the switch thang fug because changing the motor looks like a prick of a job thanks to xnrtq for providing the part

I also drive my car to work everyday with qfm a1rm pads and they work fine for daily driving You can definitely tell the difference when they are propely warmed up against normal driving but there is absolutely no problem with using them normally

My A1RM 's don't squeal on my dba4000 rotors....

yep pretty much straight after posting those photos i googled it and worked out where it was i'm not convinced it is the motor, i put my multi meter on the 2 signal wires and pressed down and it only came showed 6.5volts which isn't right, should be 12v or -12v depending on direction

ok i just realised i have no idea where the window motor is in the door... took some pics if anyone could help point out where i should be looking http://i.imgur.com/iqA9zLt.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EuBrzw4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3BsL0R9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gePrYR7.jpg

yeah it sort of feels like it's the relay, it used to click when the windows were both down and you'd press the buttons both down i'll pull the door card off today and have a look with a multimeter i will keep that in mind, do you also have the window motor available too? (depending on which one it is) how much do you want for both parts individually?

so last week my window just stopped working, thang kod it stopped working while it was already up the passenger side still works from the drivers side panel, when i press both buttons down it doesn't click like it used to i'm just trying to work out if it is the motor or the panel since i've had the car sometimes the windows will randomly stop working for a few seconds from the drivers side panel then start working again i'm leaning towards electrical panel fault but has anyone else had the same problem?

yeah mate i do

$110..

$110.....