mystery_kid

when you just lower it without actively changing the camber the wheels will naturally gain camber on the front and rear, usually more on the rear because it can be lowered more than the front thought it doesn't sound like camber alone is going to fix your problem i think you're going to be up for a guard roll at least sounds like you bought these wheels without putting a second of throught or planning into it.. ?

my car has had a pull to the left for a while now, it has had a few alignments over this time and it hasn't ever seem to fix it it has had new tyres put on in january this year, there are new (less than a year old) rubber bushed adjustable castor arms and bearing jointed camber arms up top and the tie rod ends were replaced with ball jointed items about 18 months ago the day before i bought the car as part of the road worthy i can't quite confirm but sometimes i think there is a very fine vibration coming from that side, which had me thinking today possibly wheel bearing anyway i jacked each side up before and there isn't any movement when i grab the wheel on top and try and move it but when i grab it either side and move it there is a small bit of movement, the right side wasn't as bad so i'm thinking it's either to do with the ball joints or maybe the steering rack has some movement? wheel alignment specs camber: -2.5º both sides toe: +0.5mm each side castor: about 6º i think any input would be great thx

r33 or r34 series 2 ?

you might want to specify which car you're talking about

as gtsboy said pretty much a waste of time unless you have done every possible thing to your engine and turbo and are trying to squeeze every little bit out of it, sounds like you aren't in that position if you don't even have a fmic yet if you're all worried about cutting a small hole inside the engine bay for a normal fmic setup you can get a return flow cooler

sounds a lot like a boost leak, just because it does it coming on boost doesn't mean it's coilpacks the pipe can be holding together enough which lets the car idle and drive off boost but when you put some pressure there it the leak opens up and cause your issue, sounds like a silicon hose joint not done up properly

pretty much brand new bosch 040, only had a max of 2 hours use reason for selling - really didn't suit my application and issues with my fuel tank, easier for me to get a different style pump $150 pick up or i can post at buyers expense i live in Brisbane if you are keen to pick up text or call 0413377833 or send a PM

$140 ?

if you're buying new genuine nissan coilpacks for a few hundred they either aren't new or genuine

yeah that's pretty much what i was going to do JET, unfortunately time is just not with me at the moment so i'm thinking it may just be a dump it at mechanic job nah it still doesn't start today, whatever has died is dead

just found a translation for the fise box diagram, it says it is the fuel pump fuse my fuel pump is wired on it's own circuit and working fine not sure what's going on

so i was crawling along before on the gateway motorway when my R34 Gtt just died, all engine lights came on on the dash and it died and wouldn't start the starter motor turns over but that is it fuel is fine, (so it should be for anyone else that has read my recent threads lul) i checked spark and it wasn't getting any spark so i was thinking CAS or something i just went and checked the fuses and found a dead 15amp IGN fuse, the one in the very top right hand corner if you're looking at the fuse panel in the drivers side footwell. i have replaced the fuse but the car still doesn't start so i'm assuming whatever it is connected to is dead.. anyone know what the fuse is for? thx

This

so i put a walbro in, all fine now i'm just going try and manage whatever sediment is in the fuel tank, i put a new fuel filter in the other week so i will check that after 1 months usage and change it if need be and just use fuel additives for a while to do what i can tanking the fuel tank out looks like a pain in the ass that i really don't have time for now as i'm about to be balls deep in my thesis and final semester of uni thx bros

pretty much brand new bosch 040, only had a max of 2 hours use reason for selling - really didn't suit my application and issues with my fuel tank, easier for me to get a different style pump $150 pick up or i can post at buyers expense i live in Aspley and i work in Southbank so you can pick up from either one text or call 0413377833 or send a PM

finally someone who knows what i am talking about you know you're possibly right, i have pulled it out and there has been some black stuff on the mesh which i've cleaned off but other times i pull it out and it looks fine - really hasn't ever looked like enough to cause the issue anyway i have ordered a walbro from just jap and i'm going to send the 040 back to them, they will send it away to bosch - so we'll see i have had the pump running off a spare battery in the tank before for like half an hour trying to see if there was something in the tank blocking it and the sound never happened, but it wasn't getting a full 14volts off the spare battery either way i've spent like 4 weekends now dealing with this pump issue since the old one died to where i am at now

does anyone know where the factory fuel pump relay is located in r34 gtt?

yeah i know but the filter is fine, i wish it were that easy lol

Hi i have installed a bosch 040 in my r34 gtt it is now also wired on it's own seperate circuit everything works fine apart from the fact that after a few minutes of the car running the pump then develops this rather loud buzzing sound and left long enough the car won't get enough fuel to boost. the sound can be replicated by just started the car and letting it idle, it will happen after a while say a few minutes if i turn the car off and start it again straight away the sound will continue straight away, if i turn the car off for a couple of minutes it will take a few minutes again for the sound to develop when the sound is about to start i can hear like clicking/kind of slurping sounds almost coming from the pump, i'm thinking it is cavitation or turbulence with the bottom of the tank starving the pump maybe ? this has been a bit of a saga for me over the past months with other shit going wrong so i'm about ready to buy a walbro and sell the 040 because i'm fairly over it heh any help would br much appreciated thanks

PM sent about fuel sender cap thx

hey i'm after the part number for the fuel sender/cap that goes in to fuel tank in the boot that has the fuel feed and return lines into it the white thing in this picture http://i.imgur.com/RKwLA.jpg thanks

i'm sure this is going to be tough to find but anyway i'm after the fitting/cap thing that goes into the top of the fuel tank in the boot that has the fuel lines in and out of it for R34 i'm after the whole white peice in this pic http://i.imgur.com/RKwLA.jpg as you can see mine is broken in need of one pretty urgently, any help would be great i'm in Brisbane, wiling to pay postage PM or sms 0413377833 thx

i'm sure this is going to be tough to find but anyway i'm after the fitting/cap thing that goes into the top of the fuel tank in the boot that has the fuel lines in and out of it for R34 i'm after the whole white peice in this pic http://i.imgur.com/RKwLA.jpg as you can see mine is broken in need of one pretty urgently, any help would be great i'm in Brisbane, wiling to pay postage PM or sms 0413377833 thx

haha just red the post above

i have sent you a PM about the fuel tank sender/cap thing