puke22

SOLD

still for sale

bump

I may consider selling the complete engine on its own and the car seperatly if I can the right offers on each. There has been a couple of people interested in only the car not including the engine. I would much prefer to sell the complete car however, and for the people who have been and plan to offer 5-6k, please let me save your and my time with no. I will keep the car in storage for a rebuild at a later date if I cant get alot closer to 10k than 5-6k.

Bump

no.

Still for sale

Should also add the odometer reads 131000*kms, and the car has no rust that I'm aware of. I will most probably move the engine into storage with the car next weekend (03.09.11) so everything is together in Bundaberg. Will try to get some current photos and upload them.

I'm no mechanic but I believe a foreign body went through the block. The bores where fairly haggard and the tops of the pistons had a fair amount of pinging damage (as shown in the pics). The exhaust wheel on the rear turbo was also non existent (as shown in the pics, maybe a big enough brave enough piece of piston took it on?), although the front turbo wheel spins freely and feels to have no resistance or shaft play. The valves seem to have escaped damage and still seat nicely, as the crank and cam shafts also only seem to have normal wear. This is an uneducated theory but I believe the engine was just run too hard with too much boost on standard pistons for too long before I bought it and the rear turbo exhaust wheel finally gave up. I was able to start the car after it died (while driving sedately believe it or not) but it just sounded horrible so I killed it and eventually pulled it apart. It also had no weird sounds or knocks before it died. I believe it was just run too hard on standard pistons because it came with dyno sheets showing over 330rwkw when I bought it and I did not have it tuned and only had it run 272rwkw on 14psi when I had it tested personally. So I'm assuming it was detuned and sold off to me... Please note this is my own opinion and I have very little engine knowledge and this theory should not be taken as fact. I'd appreciate no flaming of my own opinion if this sounds completely retarded , I'm just being as honest as I can. I have cleaned the crank and cam shafts up a little bit to shown wear and confirm there is no rust as the engine has been apart for over 1year now (I've left everything covered in oil and oiled where needed and wrapped in rags as I originally intended to have this rebuilt myself). I did take this car to one test n tune drag meet in its short running life with me, it can be viewed running on this vid at 48sec and 1min25sec (I lost the drag at 1min 25sec as I beat my estimated time ran 12.2 sec best that night). http://www.youtube.c.../39/lxKHVVZG7y0

Back on the market Unfortunately the deposit holder has been unable to acquire the total funds needed to buy the car. edit: added pics of engine parts packed to go

Thanks everyone for your interest Deposit taken

Also forgot to note that I also have a new in the box N1 Oil pump to go with it, as well as the standard exhaust, air box and fuel rail and a after market rpm gauge with shift light. Should note to the the clutch is in need of a over hall as well.

Selling my 1992 R32 GTR Location: Bundaberg 4670 QLD (Car) / Gladstone 4680 QLD (Engine) Asking: $10,000 or throw me an offer Phone: 0408 196 973 (Luke) I work 6am to 6pm 5-6 days a week so call outside these hours or email as I don't check this site a lot. Email: [email protected] It has a blown engine which has been removed and stripped down. I no longer have the time, spare cash or room to rebuild this car. Was running 272.6rwkw on 14psi before it died. The Car does come with the complete stripped engine. I've had the block bores cleaned up, 20' was all that was needed to remove the damage (needs final honing to suit whatever pistons go in). It was original bores before this. 1 Turbo is blown. The body is straight and interior is clean. The car has always been garaged since I've owned it and is currently in Storage in Bundaberg QLD, with the Engine at my place in Gladstone QLD. Car is not registered. Plates will go with car. Tread is 90% on all 4 corners. Running Gear: N1 turbos HKS type-S engine oil cooler HKS fuel rail HKS 900cc injectors HKS cam gears Tomei camshafts Sard fuel reg Alloy surge tank Walbro fuel pump External bosch 700hp fuel pump Splitfire coil packs Z32 airflow meters Custom advan airbox PWR radiator HKS FMIC with HKS hard piping 600x300x110 HKS primary exhaust pipes DBA 4000 series slotted rotors, std brake calipers Bilstein coilovers Cusco castor adjustables Cusco camber adjustables rear Midori upper adjustable camber arms P1buddy club wheels 17x9.5's Sparco racing seat Greddy a-pillar dual pod guage holder (greddy boost gauge, greddy exhaust temp gauge) Greddy profec-b electronic boost controller Greddy turno timer 5Puk Jim Berry Clutch Nismo strut brace Apexi power fc

pm

Tried to Pm but got a msg saying you couldn't receive and new msgs >>Hey, interested in your engine, just a few Q's -Does the engine include the wiring harness? -Include Turbo's? -Whats the reason for sale? -Whats the go with the different cranks? I'm guessing your not pulling the engine apart to install whichever crank the buyer prefers? -Whats your post code in Adelaide? (just want it for some transport quotes atm) -When would it be ready for transport? cheers<<

will consider a complete engine with good compression

hey looking to buy an rb26 long block, planing to rebuild with forged internals etc... need it sent to qld 4670 cheers

why think about going rb30 and whats involved in it, would i be spending the same money at the end of the day? nvm, just read the 2 rb30 conversion stickies... but what sort of ball park figure am i looking at pulling outta the wallet? does the fact i only want 300kw+ at the wheels prefer the 26 over the 30? just the rb30conversions i read where all big power builds im considering building up an engine while this other one dies, does anyone know someone with a long block or comeplete engine? then i can just swap em out when its complete and then i have the stuffed one to play with and fix up over time... bit easier on the funds building the engine up over a couple of months if the current one keeps on keeping on, then i fix/sell/*dream* build track car one day with the original engine

yeah i felt disheartened when they showed me what was happening, but i dont think i can bring myself to sell it... as Adriano said: welcome to expensive gtr ownership. i was thinking forged pistons, rods, n1 oil pump, crank collar... i dont want to skimp on the items and have more drama's down the track, but i dont really want a 600hp monster either. This is the price they told me, car will be collecting dust in the garage for a while now will try oil in the bore, tho the mechanic said they checked the exhaust and intake and couldn't hear the leak which ment rings? (car was at APC in brissy), dont know if they did the oil test themselves but ive been told good things about them.

I brought a R32 GTR a while ago and its seemed to be going slower then when i got it so i booked an appointment to have it serviced and check over. While checking the engine over the 4th piston was found to have low compression and high leakage. This is what i was given: Compression: CYL (1) 150, CYL (2) 150, CYL (3) 155, CYL (4) 100, CYL (5) 160, CYL 6 155. Leakage test: CYL (4) 70% Past rings. I've been told i need a rebuild or engine replace... id much prefer to work with what i have already. I purchased the car how it is now, and was given dyno sheets for 320awkw, before i found out about the dodgy 4th piston (but after it seemed to be a bit sluggish) i had it on a dyno at a car event and it put out 272awkw. It seems to run fine, not blowing smoke, nothing in the oil, no weird noises or anything (except for the drop in power) and has a nice list of upgrades on it already. but the piston and rings wont fix themselves and im too nervious to drive it now. What should i be looking at getting for the rebuild? it currently has: N1 turbos (running 14psi high boost) HKS engine oil cooler HKS fuel rail HKS 900cc injectors HKS primary exhaust pipes HKS Cam gears Gates timing belt Tomei cam shafts Sard fuel reg walbro fuel pump external 700hp fuel pump splitfire coils z32 air flow meters N1 water pump PWR radiator Jun metal Intake Gaskets HKS FMIC HD clutch as for the rest it must be std. I would like to have a reliable 300kw+ atw, but i know stuff all about rb26's (just love driving them) so if any one has any suggestions about what i should be doing that would be great! (just dont want to be paying for what i dont need) thanks!!

hey I've just brought a modified r32 gtr with a power fc. I live in bundaberg but im having trouble finding anyone who can tune/work with this. Does anyone know of a workshop near me (bundaberg 4670) that tunes modified imports with power fc's and knows what they are doing?? Cheers

PM sent

i drove from bissy to bundaberg on the weekend (355km) filled up leaving, then filled up again in bundy (98 oct). used just a tad under 34 litres. i was really suprised to see that. It was all highway, and i sat on about 110km/h and was getting excited over taking people (3rd gear roar! ) basic mods: fmic, turbo back 3", pod with box and cold air, boost at 10psi. (95 r33 gts-t) about 9.5L per 100k!

i was just pondering the idea, i saw a few pics of a s15 with 18's on the front and 19's on the back and it looked really good. also theres some mags i like, except the 18" one only come in 8" width, but the 19"'s come in 8" and 9.5". so i was thinking maybe 18" by 8" on the front and 19" by 9.5" on the rear. just checking out all my options before i buy