cankas

In this statement is just so many variables that u cant say Whats the static compression ratio? Peak power is a very small part, what about how the engine delivers its power and torque from idle? But for the sake of this exercise id go with motor 1, reason being option 2 has a smaller time to burn fuel due to wider cam duration and u probably will have the same amount of air getting into the engine (option 1 less time more boost, option 2 more time less boost) but because the burn time is less u will have to run leaner to get more out of the fuel increasing the heat in the engine raising the risk of predetination breaking a ring land. My thoughts anyway.

I wouldnt be talking bout doing it if it wasnt needed but its used mostly a daily but does a fair bit of high speed country driving and i also live in the adelaide hills, also want it for a few track days. Car has 290rwkw atm and after only a couple of decent slow downs brakes are hot and pedal starts feeling spongy. Standard brakes and pads atm.

Looking to upgrade the brakes on my GTt, they just arent doing a good enough job. Does anyone know if the R34 GTR setup will bolt on? What other setups do people recommend?

Could some one please explain by that ^^^ comment? From DBA tech support Basic_Initial_Brake_Bed___MotorSport.pdf http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/pads.html at the bottom of the page is there bed in procedure. Hope it helps, it is important to do it

+1 ^ every injector has a different opening and closing time, impedance etc and this will need to be calculated into the ecu for them to run. if a 200cc injector can flow 10cc in .5sec and u can get then impedance etc all working if the ecu still thinks its got a 200cc and its really a 400cc then your going to have double the fuel go in a stuff everything up.

350z injectors are exactly the same fittment thats why theres a few more options for the r34 now remember 34 injectors are different to all the other skylines

Yes it can be fixed, prob cost u 200 maybe more I know of 2 places in adelaide but dont know bout QLD

Gearbox shouldnt be a problem as all the rbs boxes pretty much fit ach other and the 34GTt and the GTR both have pull type clutches. Looms will be different, GTR has more sensors and no VCT Ditch the rb26's sump and modify a standard 25's into a high volume to fit, the bolt holes for the 25 sump are in the 26 block, its the inside row of bolt holes, try contacting wheelworx as the did this mod when turning there GTR into a rwd. The GTR sump is very heavy compared to the standard sump, itll help save some weight over the front end.

Price on an R34 turbo Grooved & Dimpled Rotors, Fronts and Rears also how much for full set of ebc greenstuff pads?

Also have standard coilpacks Sorry CAT was binned when high flow cat was put on

Isnt the 20-30% drivetrain loss for a standard car? 206kw flywheel skyline - 25% drivetrain loss = 154.5rwkw which is about right is a drivetrain loss of about 50kw If the drivetrain doesnt change and all you do is increase engine kw the drivetrain loss figure shouldnt rise very much. A 300rwkw skyline with an upgraded clutch and flywheel wont change the drivetrain loss much Therefore 300rwkw + drivetrain loss of 50kw (generous) is only 350 engine kw If calculate a 300rwkw car at 25% your way off, its a 25kw difference and it grows as the numbers become bigger

Yep bolt straight in, some need shimming, mine didnt, easy as. Just make sure u do get the NEO version.

Only just found this, sounds gr8, is the group buy still on?

Have the following stock parts available for R34 GTt. PM me if u want anything, its all boxed up in my shed just incase i need it air box with filter BOV Intercooler Cams Injectors Front Pipe Cat Back (sorry cat center is punched out) Rims with tyres AFM Fuel pump ECU Pressure plate (needs new center bearing) Clutch Flywheel

stock boost for r34 gtt is 4psi to 4500rpm then 7psi till red line.

I dunno thats gonna be a real struggle with that offset, mine are 19*10 with +30 and 275 and they only just make it inside.

Gees its like watching a bitch fight in progress!!! There to big! No they arent! Yes they are! SLAP Its your choice, if we all had the same rims how boring would life be. Personally i got my 19s cause i like them and thats the size of them, that is it, i know they wont perform as good as 17 or 18 on the track but its for on the street so i dont care and the difference in ride comfort was barely noticeable. When i go to the track i can take the OEMs with a set of stickies, flog the crap out of them till theres nothing left and put the 19s back on and i have no problems. sure mine wld look better lowered but i havent got to that yet

Ive got 19s on mine but its not lowered. 265/30 rear and 235/35 front Had no dramas fitting them, to big for drift but you can always put the stockies back on at the track No ride issues at all, driven adel to bris return and syd return. As for costing alot, hunt around some places will rip you off big time. I run Kumho KU31 for the 265/30 and u can get them for $250 a tyre from tempe, some places want $450!!!! As for them being illegal, wtf, there fine in sa, your allowed to go 2in larger than standard without an engineers certificate

In no way is a gtrs going to give you 300rwkw, besides its really pushing the internals of an unopened engine. My advice ring shaun at Boostwork at edwardstown, 82990621, just got him to fit a new turbo to my 34, making 284rwkw and 410nm @ 17psi with not much lag where the 3037 will have even more. If your after a number then get the 3037 but if u want huge midrange and little bit less end power figure get his garret turbo, its bolton and looks standard as. The exhaust is now holding it back.

Why would u put low setting at 6psi when its standard at 7psi? Depends on tune and most times alot of luck. Ran my std 34gtt turbo at 12 for a yr then got bored and uped it to 14.7 and that lasted a yr b4 it went bang but i was prepared to buy a new one. Somewhere round the 12 mark seems about right b4 putting more stress on the shaft.

I can come up with a good reason, its called lubrication. your gearbox has a pump in it the faster you go the more it pumps, if your putting it in N at speed it reduces the oil being pumped. might not sound much but over time it will all add up. At the lights is fine and does work just dont rev up b4 putting it in D, real quick way to blow a gearbox. If u really want to save fuel when ur coming to the lights take your foot off the throttle and pull it through the gears manually, with no throttle and more revs than idle the ecm wont need to let any fuel through to the engine.

Anyone else besides me a mechanic and now feeling really sore from laughing at how some people think that their diffs work? Open centre 1 wheel in the air - in neutral will be able to turn wheel, little effort needed Both wheels in the air - turn 1 forward the other side will go backwards LSD An LSD is just that, a LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, they can provide some degree of slip. Best example is 2 stop on the side of the road with 1 wheel in the dirt and the other on the road, take off as fast as possible, only the wheel on the dirt will spin, the clutches have got past the friction point and allow slip, you will eventually move but not real fast. With both wheels in the air both will turn the same way in neutral, if you can hold 1 wheel and still turn the other then your lsd is stuffed. Best traction on the street is a detroit style locker but most people dont like the ugly noise they make when going round corners when they are engaging and disengaging, but on acceleration the axles are locked together with no chance of any slip. Personally i say get a tightened GTR assembly if you can, as others have said lots more benefits than just a better diff.

Fitted the HKS to mine, need to cut the front support slightly with a grinder and drilled my own holes for the mounts so it sat back abit further which meant not so much of the bumper had to be cut out. Came with all the instructions and pics, easy to follow.

Service kits already on its way, and getting the N1 pump. Also have Exedy Hyper Single and Flywheel and HKS SSQV plumb back Will 480cc be enough though to support that power?

Need some advice on upgrading the injectors as cams about to be installed, what is available to bolt in? Also what size are the standard injectors? Also turbo recommendations? R34 GTT NEO with Nismo fuel pump 260in/ex poncams EBC FMIC Power FC full exhaust Standard turbo being replaced soon Currently making 205rwkw without cams, need injectors big enough to support roughly 300rwkw