winstonusmc

The ETS computer diagrams can be used from the GTR. As for the ECU diagrams, the ECR one can be used, but the ECU on the AWD provides a throttle posistion signal. Not sure exactly what pin it comes from on the ECU, but that is the only difference that I can see. Also, you really cant remove too many wire due to the fact that the ETS computer runs the ABS.

Hubs are not going to work, the 2wd front hubs have no hole for an axle. Rears are the same as the non-gtr though. The struts on the 2wd are longer than the awd. The brakes may work with some different sized bolts. I just used standard R33 brakes due to my AWD being the same as the R33 anyway. The hubs can be source from a stagea awd and the suspension is the same as the the GTR in the front. I had to change out the rear uprights to run full GTR suspension due to the way the rear strut mounts connect.

Tomorrow........... The clutch has some pad left on it, hope it lasts for a while before I have to get some new disks.

Well, it being an AWD driveshaft will complicate things. Usually on the 2wd shafts, the front half sets what transmission it goes to and the back half is what car it goes to. But in your case the CV style AWD shaft will be different. The back half will be longer in the 4dr vs the 2dr. The front half should be the same. If its a one piece driveshaft, then no it is too short. Have to look into a custom shaft.

It doesnt work through a special transfer case. I run a R32 transmission and it still has a little forward bias. I am pretty sure the ETS pump has a check valve to leave residual pressure in the line when the pump is off. This is said to help the pump to react faster when the AWD is activated.

What is the number stamped into the firewall? That number most likely is the correct one.

You have the option of putting a larger head gasket in to drop the compression back to where it should be. I have a .4 mil shaved head and it raised the compression to 190 across all cylinders. Of course, the rings seem to be in great shape so I would guess .2mil over stock head gasket should get you to a better comp ratio. Checking a head when you pull it off for warpage should let you know if any more material needs to be removed. If you are OK, then the thicker head gasket should get you back to normal compression. When you pull the head, check the gasket to see if its already a thicker one. If so, you may need to go thicker. I also have chipped my ECU to almost eliminate the pinging. It pulls the low rpm timing down 5 degrees or so but retains the origional timing at higher rpm. seems to work pretty good so far. If you want the Bin, let me know. I will remove all the injector and MAF scaling to work with a stock engine.

Your car is made in 93 Check the "fast" Thread for the fast screen.

This is a 93

I am sure it gives him the awesome flutter sound everyone looks for.

I am running Nismo springs and Bilstein struts. Not sure of the rates, but they seem to be just a little stiffer than stock. I just got them to lower the car. As far as sway bars, they are stock R34 GTR bars front and rear. Tires are normal off the shelf tires, nothing too agressive. Car weighs a little less than an R34 GTR. The use is street driving with occasional touge. As I am typing this, I think stock specs for the GTR might do nicely. What are they?

The only tru way is to pull the head off and measure it. You could do a compression test. If the numbers are higher than factory specs, it is shaved. But I know with my shaved head, it pings a little in a low gear and high load, like going up a long hill at 2000 rpm. Is your ECU tuned? If so post up your tune if you know how and I can see if it has been adjusted for higher compression. Of course whoever built your engine could have put a thicker head gasket on to counter the shaved head. My question is why do you want to know? Are you wanting to shave it again?

When a car is lowered, it pulls the upper part of the suspension in due to the higher angle on the upper control arm. The toe arms or tie rods end up pushing the suspension forward a little causing it to toe in a little. Camber doesnt hurt tires near as bad as toe.

Just ordered some Cusco upper A-arms and am about to order the rears. Right now with stock arms and lowered the camber is this: FR 2.0 degrees FL 2.3 Degrees Both Rear 3.0 Degrees What should I adjust it to? I am running GTR sways and Bilstein stock style struts. I was thinking stock specs for spirited street driving. Occasional touge with no autocross. Sorry if this has been addressed before as I suck at searching this forum.

In Japan there is a little seal on the left bolt that keeps you from removing the plate without messing it up. When you remove the bumper, this allows it to be done without breaking the seal.

I agree. Having owned both a 2wd and awd skyline, I have seen all the differences in the chassis. The floor pan has extra clearance under the driver's legs, kinda like the exhaust hump on the other side. Also the transmission mount is different to clear the tranfer case. The frame rales are notched to clear the axles and the bolt holes for the subframe are in different locations. The way to do it is cut the frame rails and floor pan from an AWD donor and have it welded onto the 2wd chassis. This is way more trouble than its worth due to the fact that Nissan made an AWD R34 to begin with. The only reason I have eve considered an AWD conversion is for an S-Chassis.

Take some 80 grit sandpaper and put it on a flat surface like a workbench. Then take the pad and smooth it out by rubbing the pad on the sandpaper. Try to keep it as level as you can. You will know when there is enough when all of the radial lines are gone and it looks like a new pad surface.

It looks like the rear subframe may bolt into the 2wd model if there is room. I know when you are considering the RWD Nissans ant their AWD counterparts, the entire front chassis is different to accommodate the front drive system. You may be able to find a rear cut to get all the donor parts from. If it all bolts in, there is no wiring or plumbing like the ATESSA ET-S, it just has a viscous center diff. For the parts, download Nissan FAST, it tells you all the part numbers.....

The wires are in reverse order. 1 to 4, 2 to 3, 3 to 2, 4 to 1.

The pins on the CAS sensors will be completely reversed. 1 to 4, 2 to 3, 3 to 2, 4 to 1.

When all the fanboys keep coming up to you and asking, "Hey man, are you going to take it back to the US?"

Maybe you have already thought of this, but shouldnt you cut your intercooler piping holes before the engine bay gets painted?

Couldnt you install the nipple in the vacuum rail the is on top of the manifold? You would want it where all the TB runners come together. Maybe even the vacuum chamber underneath.

Sorry, IE sucks

Neo coils bolt directly to the head, no rail. They are also all facing the same way and the spark plug is in the center. I know some guys here that will just sit the coil on top of the plug with nothing holding it down because Neo packs are hard to find. As for this ECU swap, it will be very hard to get it right. The VCT solenoid works differently in the Neo than the R33. Also, the Neo has more vacuum switches to run emitions stuff that isnt on the 33 motor. It will be a big pain to switch over ECU plugs as well. Just save yourself the trouble and get a Z32 ECU if you want to Rom tune.