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RiCkY TuTtY

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Posts posted by RiCkY TuTtY

    Wtd Steering Wheel

    in Classifieds

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    Hi all,

    After a Factory NON-Airbag type steering wheel removed from a r32/33 and/or similar to whats pictured please

    I am located on Morayfield

    Best to txt me on 0410764859
    kgbo.jpg

    R30 Brake Master Cylinder

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    I'm just thinking that just about anything from the wreckers will be similar in condition as they are duty bound these days to remove all fluids, due EPA regulations.

    I have to go to Dapto on NSW south coast (just past Wollongong) in next few days, so I can look if you like. Weather permitting!

    There must be a brake & clutch specialist up your way that could tell you if it's rebuildable. They put stainless sleeves in them and then a kit and they come out like new, but time line is pretty much untested. When there is nothing else, your choice in minimal.

    Cheers, D

    Cheers for the reply bud, i am getting a quote from the mechanics next to my work on how much the brake/clutch specialists a couple of suburbs away would charge to rebuild (fingers crossed) if they can and if so, i am hoping it wont cost an arm and a leg :banana:

    R30 Brake Master Cylinder

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    Do you not have one at all, or is it yours is stuffed and not available new?

    Well basically, my brakes have failed in mine - check list that has past are - calipers, hoses, lines, air locks, etc. and the booster but ultimately it has come down to an internal leak within the Master due to pedal going to floor and is really soft.

    have also spoken to mechanic's as well with the same conclusion being the front piston seal has given way...

    I don't think they are available new? But i haven't been given the chance to call round due to work + Funds are not the brightest at the moment either...

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    :(:D:O:banana:

    :bunny: :bunny: :bunny: :bunny: :bunny:

    sorry had too!

    now ill have to do a oil flush with new oil/filter and prob do the auto at the same time

    any reccommendations on oil but no castrol, etc crap?

    also with the auto is there such a thing as filter replacement? similar to a vn's auto service kit?

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    Hi,

    This link was posted a while back by 'alexunder'. http://xenons30.com/reference.html

    First link on that page is:

    Model L20A, L24 Series Engine Service Manual- Complete 10.9MB PDF

    It's an old manual but has pics of the timing chain and tensioner on several pages. 

    JH

    Am I missing something here?

    To me it doesn't matter a toss where the chain is mounted because the timing marks are on the sprokets, not the chain. The chain is simply the tool that connects the 2 (camshaft & crankshaft sprokets) together.

    I'm using an Kameari hardened chain & Kameari adjustable chain tensioner and I can assure you, there is no shiny links in the Kameari chain whatsoever, not even the joiners.

    And the timing marks must be set with the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder.

    D

    I think u might be im not sure? :bunny: have a look on the service manual in first quote, open service manual, scroll down to page 59, left column #17 and read the *note*

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    Pleasure. The memory of this horror of a job is all too fresh in my mind. You'll certainly know a lot about front ends, timing and swearing at your car by the time you get done!

    HAHAHAH theres no doubt about that!!! i will probably know how to do any timing chain now since its taken this long to do it on mine! next on the list is front coilover conversion!

    already have hubs, knuckles, brakes, etc (and 1 LCA, but need another LOL) just need coilovers for the front and lower the rear to compensate (OR get rear coilovers with front S13 tophats to suit tower) and bobs ur uncle! BUT i wont be going BOSOZUKO style trust me!!!! so there should be any problem with tie rod inclination

    then after that rack'n'pinion hopefully i hate BOXES!!!!!!!!!!!

    OH! i forgot to mention but will look into the mounting of the s13/R31 caster arm brackets that mount to the radiator support so i can run adjustable caster arms aswell (i'm aiming for increased caster (as much as possible without issues) aswell as around 1-1.5 Degree (AT MOST) Chamber aswell)

    as i am a qualified underbody specialist/Wheel Aligner (but not as current job :banana:) thats wat would be good for around the streets for cornering at a respectable ride height without chopping tyres (depending on the r30's reaction to these dramatic changes with adjust toe to suit but would be around 2-3mm TOTAL toe)

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    As I said, shiny links, schminy links... that only works if the engine is out of the car, and you can see the bottom gear at the same time as the top...

    there is 2 sort of shiny links on the chain but im not sure if this is correct on mine due to there's only 35 links going from each mark on the cam/crankshaft

    i had to pull the hole front of the motor and start again...

    i will try and get to it 2mora hopefully just every things hectic and doing it on my own is becoming difficult to time restrictions and other events getting in the way....

    Thankyou guys so much for all ur help so far i cant believe how much u guys have helped! wouldn't of gotten anywhere without u guys!

    now i have do de3al with my thumb playing up from previous surgery :happy:

    Importmonster.com.au

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    $450 is still dirt cheap for a full set of coilovers

    dont get me wrong that is very cheap! (wish i could find cheaper in aus... ;)) i had a look at the currency charts to and May is shtihouse atm....

    now its at 75yen for 1AUD, last month it was 88yen

    Importmonster.com.au

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    Hey guys i saw on here earlier about sourcing parts from ImportMonster.com.au for another choice BUT....

    A. The parts mostly on there (VIA Yahoo! Auctions i will add) are dirt cheap! but Too Cheap?

    B. Shipping Costs Are Maddness!!! i was looking at a set of coilovers - just say for instance $160 - cheapest was $450 all up! via sea and pickup melbourne (god knows how i would get it then lol as im up at brizzies)

    does this sound right?

    Item Cost: 12,000¥

    Japanese Domestic Freight: 5,000¥

    Import Monster Commission: 2,500¥

    Total Japan Costs: 19,500¥

    Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 75.01¥

    Import Duty: 1,200¥

    Container Freight Cost: $125.00

    Australian Domestic Freight: N/A

    Sub Total: $400.96

    GST: $40.10

    Total: $441.06

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    With the timing cover off its easy. Squish the tensioner home with your thumb on your left hand and pop your cam sprocket on with your right hand! Without the all the junk in the way its the easiest job in the world, it's just removing all that junk which is time-consuming and irritating.

    Start at the grill and burrow forward till you see timing chain. I forgot to mention, to get your crank pulley completely off you'll need a crank pulley puller (a cheap and nasty from supercheap will do). Pretty much everything else comes off with a 10/12/14mm spanner or socket or a screwdriver.

    The timing cover might need a bit of a knocking to dislodge it, but don't start tapping away at it till you are certain every last bolt is out, including the one hidden behind the oil pump.

    i managed to have all this done, i *think* i did the timing chain right but not 100% sure.... due to i am stuck AgAiN!!! the timing is waaaaay off i think 40degree BTDC! it barely would even run (200rpm i think lol) but i think this would be due to incorrectly fitting the pump-to-distributor rod... gonna have to (when i get time on the w'end) to remove the pump and re-fit the rod eventually

    Dr30/ S13 Front End Couple Of Qs About Tie Rod Ends

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted

    Here we go again!

    This topic has been done to death.

    Don't read forums, go talk to engineers and they will tell you the pros & cons of rack n pinion vs the stock steering box and I can tell you this, the answers your going to get aren't what you want to hear.

    If your going to the drags, running in a straight line all or most of the time, do the rack n pinion conversion, but if you plan to go around corners, the geometry is going to be all wrong and your going to be chasing your tail getting it right till the sun don't shine no more.

    Your playing with a short fused stick of jelly imho and with others that have researched it for longer than most of you have been alive.

    Have a talk to the likes of Arthur Jackson & Stewart Wilkins and others like them and they will all tell you your going to get burnt.

    If it was so easy, they would be doing it everyday, but they aren't.

    D

    fair enough point taken.... so to ur knowledge swapping the box in the r30 for rack and pinion is a no go (hypothetically - drifting)?

    Dr30/ S13 Front End Couple Of Qs About Tie Rod Ends

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    yea if id did that id go laurel/32 crossmember etc..

    i cannot remember whilst i was doing my research but if u do this which rack will u use?from what i remember the reason why i say this especially with s13 racks (not sure if r32/luarels are the same) the pinion is off-centered differently to an r31 therefore more difficult to position (maybe modifying/involving swapping more parts involved)

    my mates hr31 has same setup and same problems, not sure if 31 is wider 2 ..

    hmmm that does make u go ???..... pineapples maybe?

    im not sure havent came across anyone complaining of this problem b4 whilst researching....

    1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

    in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

    Posted · Edited by RiCkY TuTtY

    look down the timing case on the left side of the motor as you are facing it... there is a little piston that pushes against the chain guide to keep pressure on the chain and stop it flopping about... it can only slide out, and not in by itself, it has a little flap that locks it out... you push on the back of the flap to lift it up and let the piston slide back inwards... If it is still horizontal, you can fix it without too much problem...

    i cannot find this flap.... all i can see is the tensioner guide, piston and spring but to no luck any 'flap'

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