stomper

For sale : 1 GT3582 T3 turbo. 4 bolt rear external waste gate required. Good for up to 700Hp Price $900 postage extra 1 Turbosmart ProGate 50 comes with clamps and inserts. Will require weld on flanges Price $350 posted anywhere in Aus 1 Greddy type R BOV - used, so will require new gasket and flange depending on mounting location Price $150 free postage in Aus 1 OS Giken TRS2CD twin plate clutch; plates have approx 1mm+ on them. No slip with 300+Kw engine. MIssing one cover plate bolt (will replace if bought) selling for $750 +postage. All items came off my own car, running a 26/30 (sold). All items were working with no issues. Car has now been stripped for my v8 project. If anyone wishes to collect they can be picked up from the Fairfield area (western Sydney) Happy to post the Turbo and clutch at buyers expense.

Picked up the haynes manual for the 6.0 litre so, this points the way regarding torque settings etc. Engine wise, the L98 is pretty simple , although i learnt a few things the hard way when pulling down the dirty 30. I now have a couple of large plastic crates to keep each section in. and photos.... lots of photos.

Tilton three pedal floor mount box will deal with the engine bay dramas. In the scheme of things, $2-3k to get the fabrication work done properly isn't really a big deal - when you chuck in the cost of everything else: e.g. teflon fuel lines, new race fuel tank, seat, new comp, engine internals (cam, pistons, valves) new dash............. the list goes on. For those interested, the engine is now stripped down and ready for cleaning. Just doing some research on cam specs, before i buy the rest of the rotating assembly and get it down to the machine shop for balancing.

There was a day when it had an RB25 under the hood. Now if you check the original post you will see it was a RB26/30 and beleive me, ther wont be anything cheap about this motor, nor was there anything cheap about the last. Would love to understand why you think its not a good swap........

To all the comments regarding custom work etc.... I dont get the reticence to have to actually undertake work on the car. Part of the enjoyment of working on the car is actually solving the problems and turning a plan into reality - or dont you guys get that part..? For anyone that has put the hybrid engine in, it wasn't exactly a straight drop in, and there is plenty of custom work as a result. I didnt mention a limit on funds for the project, nor a requirement to have a drop in solution.... To all the comments regrding stick with the RB engine.... Yes it makes 370RwKW, yes its tough as f**ck, but its done, and im up for something new. I may sell the engine, and all the other parts, or i may just keep hold and see what happens. But the previous engine is done, and now will sit with low Km's on it until it has a new home. And you cannot beat the sound of a V8 ! Anyone concerned about the state of the engine..... Being stripped and rebuilt, so will have full checks etc before rebuild. So thanks for the later posts from those people commenting on original ideas for blown/FI on the engine - i think the consensus is that it creates too much power than is usable given the torque already generated. For those that think its too much hassle - thats fine, stick with your own plans - lets be honest you didnt have to comment/post, and seeing as we wont ever meet, you just wasted 2 minutes of your life posting. For those with similar projects undertaken/or planned, i may create a project thread so we can have a usefull conversation and record for others interested.

EBay - came with the complete engine minus ECU and transmission - loom, power steering pump, all the ancillaries That is to say i am only missing the ecu and tranny, everything else cam with it

Thanks - but rebuilding the car up isnt exactly an afternoons work. Anything constructive guys?

This starts with saying that the car (R33 GTST) has been stripped down ready to be built for racing next year. The current engine, a fully built 400RWkW 26/30 is out on a stand whilst i decide its fate - keep or sell. I came across and managed to pick up a nearly new 6.0L L98 V8 for a steal ($500) - dont ask me where it came from. So heres my thinking - drop in the V8 and then look at whether it gets supercharged or twin turboed - as i build the car back up to race. (E85, new comp, cage, custome wiriing etc.) Interested in anyones thoughts - ive seen a couple of LS1 built Skylines, and they seemed to be a bit of a laugh - figured why not if the engine just popped up. Appreciate constructive comments for discussion.

RB26 - although this was running on a 26/30

For sale one fully working Link G4 ECU in standard nissan ECU housing. Comes with internal 2 BAR Map sensor (good for 1Bar positive Boost) and will plug straight into your factory loom, just needs a pressure feed from engine bay (inline filter included) $800 Located in Carlingford Sydney, but happy to post at buyers expense. Check the link if you need more info on Link ECU's http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management-ecus/g4-plug-in-ecus

I have a grill available, missing one mount on the rear out of 6, but still fits securely

Cheers

As the title says, need some dry ice to strip the sous deadening from my car. Thanks

Because having used a Link I have a good idea of what they can do - and zero experience of anything other than a PowerFC - therefore I would like to see members feedback on what they have used for race applications. There is also a large Link/Vipec supporters posse on the forum, so would liek to hear a bit about what esle is out there. Not to say i wont use a link - just options.

So to start of the debate, I am currently stripping and re-building my GTST for racing next year. Previously the RB25 was replaced by a built 26/30 combo and was putting down a lazy 310KW at the rears. In the future I will be running a similar combo, but more likely on a 0.82 rear hosuing for the GT3582, rather than the current 1.06. However i am planning on giving the car completely new wiring as part of the build, so I am looking to change from the current Link G4 ECU to another, as it is currently set up for plug and play on an RB25 loom. So what i am looking for is peoples contributions to which to look at. I am not interested in : Launch Control E-throttle And the unit needs to be a wire in option rather than plug and play. Particularlry interested in those members that track their car and aren't using Vipec or Link.

I am busy stripping down my 33 GTST for race duties, and now that the interior is all but out i can see that ehe steering column in cab, appears to terminate at a universal joint at the fire wall. Now i have had intermitant issues with my power steering, so the likelihood is that i will replace the whole Power steering assembly. What are my best options to run a fixed steering column rather than the adjustable one i have currently??

I've only ever used Garret turbos - what if any is the difference with the Borg Warner gear?

You are absolutley correct - when i built the motor , I was originally planning for 400RWKW plus - but we hit the limit of the fuel system - and without moving to a surge tank and additional pumps, I was stuck at 310 - hence the original turbo choice. This year I have decided that my new project will be to race the car, and as such she is being stripped ready for a full cage and re-spray. I always knew that he current set-up would not be optimal and hence the question. Cost whilst a consideration is not prohibitive, and i have no requirement for factory piping, unless it fits, as I have no need to remain RTA legal. Back when she was an RB25 - the 3076 was a great piece of gear - but will it still stand now its 26/30 and is going to be raced. I reckon given teh cage, sprayjob, new wheels and tires, big brake upgrade, new ECU, electronic dash and all of teh other goodies - I am unlikely to see much change out of $30-35K. The engine is already built, so only the head will need work, besides a strip down and check/balance. So the question still stands - single or twins, which will be thebest for a 970 - 1000kg RWD track car????

Cheers guys

SO i am stripping my 33 Gtst with a built 26/30 down for racing and am considering converting from a single GT3582r with a 1.06 housing to twins. What twins to drop in is the million dollar question. Previously had good fun with a 3076r - is there a chance to do two of these. Aiming for good boost response say upwards of 3000 rpm. Currently have 310 KW so around this mark will be perfect. Thanks in advance Mike

Pics of head pls

Price for steering rack pls

Cheers guys

So I am currently stripping my R33 Gtst down in preparation for a race build, and am interested in the best way to store the engine when it comes out of the car. Ultimately it will be pulled down again to check the internals are holding up, but would hope not to cause it any problems in the process of storage. Thanks in advance

As the title says, having this debate currently and would like to open it up to those that may know.?? Barring any loss of efficecny for the seperation/merge, would a theoretical twin 3 inch system flow the same as a single 6 inch; twin 2inch same as single 4 inch etc. Cheers