stomper

Sorry miss-typed should be 15PSI - Dyno graphs are posted in Hybrid section. The whole point of the question was - given that my oil pressure has previously sat at 4-6 kg/cm2, was the fact that it is now at 7-8kg/cm2 indicative of a problem, or a faulty OPS. Popular opinion is taht its not an issue and just a shot OPS.

Running an N1 , and a GT3582, so when we built the engine, the appropriate restrictor was fitted to the oil feed. This is a new problem, over the last week - however given taht i dont seem to be consuming any oil, i figure i may just wait until I rebuild the car in 6 months to race. Thanks for teh help

BUmp

Hey, Have been driving my 26/30 for nearly a year now, and there have never been any oil issues. Just noticed this morning that even after warm up and the 30k drive to work, the pressure wont drop below 7kg/cm2. Usually starts up at 8 and then after warmed up drops down to 3-4 kg/cm2. This engine has never been flogegd (redline set at 6800rpm), and is driving on a comfortable 10PSI. Car makes about 310 RWKW on 10PSI. Just wondering if the oil pressure is genuinely high, will this cause any problems?? I have checked oil, plenty in sump. negligible blow by from rocker covers. Also no excess in cam covers Water temp is fine, and oil temps dont seem to be elevated when i check. If this is an issue, where shold i be looking to fix it up. Thanks in advance guys

Im looking to upgrade my exhaust from the catback. At the moment I have a 3.5 inch custom dump running down to a Xforce 3inch cat and x force 3 inch exhaust. Tried Castle Hill Performance Exhaust, but they seem pretty convinced that it is impossible to fabricate a 3.5 inch exhaust that will get close to 92-95db. I have no issue spending the coin on a decent custom exhaust and cat setup, but am really looking for a workshop in the sydney area, that can do the fabrication (the easy part), and know enough about the job to get the right components in to quieten down the forklift. Personal recomendations appreciated, particulalry if you have a contact that knows their skylines and how to make them whisper rather than growl. Thanks Mike

RB26/30 DET CP forged 86.5mm pistons Spool rods GT3582 1.06 rear housing Turbosmart 50 mm race port wastegate Greddy type r BOV Greddy RB25 FMIC 3.5" dump to 3" cat back 6Boost manifold Sard FPR Sard 800cc injectors SARD Fuel Rail Bosch 044 Standard plenum and TB's OS Giken TS2CD Twin plate clutch Rb25 gearbox ARP head and main bolts Link G4 ECU 376 KW on the rears at 18PSI, although boost is now set at low at 15PSI and 330KW. the engine was leaning out due to lack of fuel, so now back to saving up for a surge tank and external pumps. Car drives better now than when it was a simple RB25 - Sweet!

Any chance of a pic of the engine dampener

Located in Sydney and need to replace a spare TPS. Happy to pay postage, however must be working. Thanks Mike

All, So i am finally booked in to get my twin plate installed, and the 26/30 retuned. Now my mind is thinking on the fact that the next most likely thing to go is the diff and driveshafts after tyres. I Have been told that i can upgrade to a GTR Diff, and driveshafts, but i have zero understanding of that area mechanically. Is there any sticky or repository of info onm this gear. Any suggestions that aren't going to include lots of expensive Jap aftermarket gear. Thanks

Cheers for that - how about the pedal bracket?

Anyone have a view on whether it is worth $70 for a Nismo one or is the stock just fine?

Ok, So i am finally going to get my OS Giken twin plate (TS2CD) put in to my car. The existing clutch slips like a bitch, and when it gets some work in traffic, i get a grating feeling in the pedal. When i get the clutch put in, should i look at upgrading the standard pivot ball to the nismo one, along with the pedal bracket. What does the pivot ball do, i assume it interacts with the selector fork??? Also assume that he nismo pedal bracket is stronger? Help and explanations greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

R33 GTST S1 coils are not compatible with the GTR ignitor pack as the ignitors I believe are in the coil for the GTR coils, but not in the GTST S1 - I would suggest the only way your mate has his work is to change the coilpacks to GTST models. I have the same in my 26/30 running my old RB25 ignitor, to save on changing the coilpack loom.

Well thats settled ( although i have the same question in with the guys that administer the MRA series). 2011 will be the year for a 3D regs built R33 with a 26/30 in it!!! Now i need to learn how to stitch/seam weld........

So i have been busy downloading the reg from CAMS, and have the 2F and 3D regs in front if me. My problem is that whilst 2F may be less (a loose term) expensive to be competetive than 3D - the thought of airway restrictors makes my skin crawl. So whilst getting flogged every race by the 6L boys my be painfull, the lower restrictions - or more oportunity to develop the car seems better. Also looks like i can run the 26/30 in that class no problem. Two questiosn remain: 1. Is the above a fair statement based on everyones experience? 2. What is the implications in racing in MRA if i were to build to CAMS 3D rather than 2F?? Cheers guys!

Cheers to all that have contributed their opinions so far. I need to have a look at the CAMS production sports regs and see what i can do with the old girl......hers hoping that the packet i spent on my dirty 30 is not going to be mothballed...... Mike

Hi Duncan, Thanks for your info! So MRA seems like a go in regards to re-building the car to a set of "relaxed" regs. Although they specify CAMS as the overriding authority. Any of the MRA guys give me any tips in tracking down the relevant regulations for combined sedans class A?? Mike

Hey guys, I have been a member for a few years now, and am the owner of a '93 33 GTST running a 26/30. I am looking to retire the car from road use at the end of this year and look to race it after an overhaul and strip down. Problem is, having been trying to research the options and subsequent restrictions/regulations prior to having the old girl apart, I am left masssively overwelmed with the various options. Being new to competetive motorsport, and based in Sydney, I am looking for a good NSW based series that i can spend some time. I have had a look through the CAMS website along with the irace series, but am strugggling to get a balanced view of what is out there and how i should proceed with my build. Ideally I would like a an event that allows the most scope in terms of car/engine design and selection - however am open to all options as long as the competition is good. Maybe time attack is a better way forward....? So over to you guys - constructive suggestions please..... Mike

Why not just rebuild teh twin plate you can buy the kits from Ottomoto in Sydney

Absolute gold!!! Although back on topic - if you have a perfectly normal dump on the car now, why waste money on changing it. Save the cash and buy something that actually adds to the car rather than making it sound like a cum-fart.

Any chance of a better picture of the catch can please

Move the centre anchor point to the right or left, behind the seats - unfortunately the mount is through the speaker grill. I have had my daughter in the car for the last 18 months - and there has never been an issue securing her chair and now booster. Either her fathers just a skyline hater - so it never really matters what you do or how safe the car is, or he has some other issue that is causing his brain fart. I have never had an issue with access to get her in or out, although i am happy to bend his knees - (the dudes not a pirate is he??) Tell him to drink some milk and stop being such a cat!!

GAY! perhaps the only screamer you are looking for is when the local constabulalry insert their wee-wee into your poo-poo. Maybe that will remind you why its a stupid fu*kin idea

Fair point, all siad and done it begs the question why there are a profusion of large single TB setups around. Outside of that, if the ECU supports it, i would hope to get better control of my throttle and response. Beyond the actual FBW TB and the pedal/sender, what more cost would there be????

As the title states, i am interested to see if anyone is aware of an electronic throttle (DBW) that would be able to be added to my 26/30 setup. I think i will be retiring my car from road duties later this year, and stripping her back to race - as i run a link G4, i would like to investigate the electronic throttle setup. Thanks in advance Mike