stomper

Not sure if it would class as false advertisement, more incomplete.... I think the main issue (as also experienced by myself with a bolt on kit from the same shop), is that they sell the kit as a bolt on package, and I also had to buy longer studs and a spacer which i wasnt aware of until the stocker is on the floor and the turbo doesnt clear the stock manifold. I think its just a matter of either saying you need the extra gear or puting it in the kit and adding to the price.

Bare, just cam caps which are specific to the head. I checked the receipt and it was $1615 trade.

Hey all, Looking for some pointers with warm/hot starting my motor. Engine is a built RB30DET with 800cc injectors and a Link G4 (amongst other items). Now cold start has always been a bitch - needs three primes to get it to kick over, but I also have issues when she has been running for a while and then stopping re-starting! I.e. if you stop for petrol, restarting once warm is pretty hit and miss say maybe four go's. Problem I doubt is RB30 specific, hence location Any ideas??

Not sure about $850 for a brand new head - I bought one through Nissan earlier this year and it cost me $1550 flown in from Japan. That was the trade price as well.

Is the 33 GTR bar a straight swap onto a 33 GTST? If so I would be looking for a maroon one.......... will give the 30/26 a tad more air...

Will look to post pics tonight - however i don't have the equip to measure so thats up to the buyer to determine. As previously posted, unhappy sale, but need the cash - all projects on hold.

Bought it a month or so ago off a fellow SAU'er parting out their car (Thizzle) Clutch is a TS2CD http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/ Was sold with "70% meat eft on the plates", haven't fitted it yet, so can only trust a reputable SAU'er. Need to sell for some second baby cash. $1000 plus postage. PMs only please, low offers will simply be ignored. Clutch located in Sydney

For sale is one brand new Innovate LC1 Wideband O2 meter. Bought a few months ago to plumb into tmy Link ECU, but haven't the time or cash to get it set-up. http://www.ausperformance.com.au/component...p;category_id=3 Cost you $248 in Aus, will sell for $200 posted. No offers. Pm's if interested

I recently picked up an OS Giken twin plate from Thizzle's car break up sale (fellow SAU'er), for my 26/30 Now I need a reccomendation of an SAU friendly workshop who can give the clutch the once over and if the plates are in good condition, fit it up for me. Sydney based and a paid up NSW member, but can't seem to track down any options for who to go to. Thanks in advance. Mike

Trying to track down the current whereabouts of Brendan that used to work at Advan performance in auburn Sydney. As I understand it, Pete and Brendan parted ways on less than sociable terms, but he did some good work on my car. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks

For my 2 cents being someone that has had both a RB25DET and RB26/30DET in the same R33 GTST, I would suggest that you need to research more. Its a lame excuse trying to get people's opinions on what you think will do the job, when you clearly have a small understanding about both the mechanics of a powerful engine, and or the process of building one. I for one am always learning abou the car I have, and I couldn't for one second explain a turbo map, however I have read enough and made enough mistakes to know the difference between a highflow and a stock turbo. If you resolution is to consistently google the next word you don't understand then you are going to get ripped off or end up with something you dont want. Linking 200 KW and 26/30 in teh same sentence just smaks of no idea! If you want a quick boosting mid powered engine, stick with the RB25, get a FMIC and a 3076 with 0.82 housing. Upgrade injectors, ECU and fuel rail. Easy 270RWkW and fast as pants. I have so far invested well over $20K in my 26/30 and I am plagued with a myriad of tiny issues - poor cold start, rich running, and a host of minor engineering challenges. Not to mention, the fact that i now need an uprated clutch ($1000 second hand of a fellow SAU'er), then perhaps the diff will go next, wider wheels/tyres etc. etc. etc.. It really isn't as easy as just lobbing one in and off you go. But do us all a favour, why not start by building up both your engine/car, experience and knowldege from the ground up; before you become the next "hoon caught by the cops", or run me or my family over while you are trying to work out how to handle 260RWKW in the wet. There is no short cut to experience!

IS the Clutch Still around?

Bump

Looking for anyone running a 26/30 on a link G4 that is willing to share a copy of their current pcl file. Wouldn't mind compaing the fuelling and ignition tables of mine with another for reference, as I have some rich running and starting dramas. Thanks in advance

Make sure that when they bore its torque plated. BTW the crank collar is the cheap part - machining it onto the end of the crank takes the time and money (within reason). I went for the CP with 20 thou overbore. With the metal head gasket on, makes about 8.7:1, with a single GT3540 on it pulls nice and strong from down low to 4k............... and then my clutch slips. Getting the power once built is just a matter of tuning (easier said than done), its the various build issues that took the time, diagnosing those is still the hard part rather than building in big power.

Fark - I think I have spent close to $16k Aus on my 26/30 and it still needs more work. You have to count on lots happening: The 26 head I bought that was corroded and useless The oil pump that had a slight ding in it, that we ultimately decided to bin and get another N1 just so as not to take chances. New thottle sensor, because it now wont hold a steady idle.... New clutch, as mine now slips past 350RWKW The list goes on, I think from my experience and the experience of those that know, there are two ways to build a new engine, the cheap way or the right way

Brand new head direct from Nissan Japan $1600. SAves the hassle and heartached to find out your second hand one is screwed - been there and done that!

Turbo Beanie now back sale due to flakey buyer. R34 GTR Coilpack loom and catch can still for sale. Thanks

UPDATE AFM and filter sold pending payment Turbo Beanie also sold pending payment Thanks

For sale are the following parts left over from my recent 26/30 build (no longer required): 1 x Z32 AFM and Apexi power Intake - $200 1 x Greddy Catch Can (used)- $50 1 x XKR Turbo Beanie (unused) suit GT3076 etc. - $100 1 x Brand New R34 GTR Coilpack loom $100 All parts in Carlingford Sydney, however will post at buyers expense. PM's from any interested parties, I don't always check my posts. Thanks Mike

Bloody Computers! Lets sort a few points of order here: 1. Peter at Advan has more years experience than i care to think of - he's built race engines for Mazda, including engine development. He sourced the G4 for it direct from the guy who owns link (personal friend of his in NZ) becuase he had allocated the ones he had in the shop, and Link can't keep up with overall demand. The Ross balancer i bought was missing a couple of screws of the back, so he got "Mr Ross", himself to bring them over (again personal friend). I know this because i have spent many hours talking to him (ever rung Jim Berry??) 2. He built the engine in the car, so there is little point in taking the car elsewhere at this point (if I wanted to). 3. I see the time i invest in the car and in the relationship with my workshop directly pay for themselves. I paid for 6 hours of Dyno time over three days for the full tune - this was in real terms starting at run 31 and finishing at run 134 if you check the Dyno logs. He diagnosed a failing TPS at low throttle/idle, and whilst i am no expert on tuning (as I would save a whole lot of $$), I do know that even though one block can look and read the same mods as another, they are far from equal. 4. I, like others, have poured a huge amount of cash into the engine for this 30/26 build, given all the inherent dangers of tuning to high power and the cost of quality parts, why would i risk a quick and dirty tune on upwards of $20k invested??? For that kind of money, i want someone to work on my car wearing kid gloves, and tucking it up each night in a freaking doona! I fell like i get that. We all enjoy our cars and what we do to them for different reasons! I may put this one on a track every now and then; I don't fang it up and down my street and smoke the tyres at lights becuase i am tring to get a girlfriend - I do it becuase I am trying to improve on a great piece of engineering and add my own little mark to it; why would i be getting ripped off if I agree to put it in for the time it needs to be done with care and attention. There are lots of good tuners out there, what makes it different for all of us is how we get on with them and the trust you have when you hand over your keys and walk out of the workshop, to know that it will still be in one piece and not an addition to someones turbine collection in their jar (if you ever read that old post!) +1 for CRD and +! for all the others listed - I read up on the work they do; but believe me when i say thet I wouldn't take my car anywhere else. Mike

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