seanp351

Hi, I do not mind if I have to change the electrical connections I am more concerned with them fitting the factory fuel rail for side feeds, do you have anything in the 850cc range that will do this? Sean Palm

Hello Brendan I am chasing a set of 850cc injectors to fit a 1996 Ser2 RB25DET Skyline. I would prefer a direct fit for the above model if possible. Availability ,price and lead time for delivery to Brisbane. Thank you

I would love to come along and I will bring the Skyline for you to have a go at, as I am very keen to see if there are any pitfalls in my security system before someone else finds them and takes the car. Can you PM me or post up when and where you will be holding this Tech Night.

Try this Formula it works out the same as Moroso power calculator<br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">Need speed and vehicle weight with driver<br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">.00426 x MPH x = = x weight <br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">.00426 x 118 x == x 3400 = 431.8 , same as Moroso if you set speed and check against weight. Vehicle weight must be in pounds (2.2 pounds to a Kilo) and it gives rear wheel horsepower So in your case it would be .00426 x 97.22 x == x 3146 = 223.49 HP

Had a call from a mate "can you come around and help with my brakes" turned up and he had been going at the rear drums on his ute for an hour with every type of hammer or anything he could hit the drums with "these bloody drums won't come off they must be seized' he says so I reached into the car and took the handbrake off, bang both drums fell onto the floor,he felt like a total tool and still had to pay me the six pack he had promissed.lol lots!

Put AC onto recirculate and spray the inlet at the passengers side footwell up the front left side of the centre hump you should be able to feel it pulling air past your hand,it will pull it into the system by itself.When your AC is on fresh air intake it should be breathing from outside of the car through the plenum just below your windscreen.therefore unless the smell is outside there should not be any smoke traces in this part of the ducting.Good luck!

Try using a product called "Febreeze" spray it everwhere including in your A/C inlet and ducts while running.You may have to do it a few times to get rid of it alltogether.I had good success with it in getting rid of the pungent smell from having a family of rats set up home in a car that I had stored for about 2 years it took a few goes but eventually the smell dissapeared.

Either spend the money on a decent soldering iron and use a desoldering vacume pump/desoldering tape(get both of these from dick smith or other quality electronics stores) or like WOrp3D said get someone who knows what they are doing to do the install.

P.S. Dude I forgot to add don,t use silicone where it will come into contact with fuel or it will eventually breakdown and either leak or go into your motor or do both.

You can use either "permatex aviation form-a -gasket #3" or "loctite aviation #3" both these products are a liquid type gasket sealant and are petrol,oil,water and anti-freeze safe,they can also be used on pipe and thread seals.I have been using them for years on many different engines and applications with no problems and great results as you can see they are designed for aviation uses as well.You can get these products from just about any spare parts shops even super cheap have them now.They were originally recomended to me by a mechanical engineer and are tried and proven products.Good luck with tour install cheers.

Haven't delt with camtech but I have been running performance valve springs for about 10-15 years in a variety of v8's including full on drag engines spinning to 11000 rpm, have not had an issue with any of their products they are top shelf,I would recommend their product to anyone!

Are we doing a round the world trip that is start at EFI and return to EFI for BBQ/drinks and dynos'?

I'm from Shailer Park about 10mins away from EFI's workshop.I am new to the Skyline scene and keen to meet other like minded car nuts,in for a cruise and chat anytime love to talk cars!

I'm in and put me done for the dyno runs as well.Look forward to meeting some fellow skyline owners!

Go for the first one the bellmouth version it will get you better gains in torque and horsepower than the split dump and front pipe.I have just fitted one myself last weekend and you can feel the difference from the standard set up.Check out this thread it has some handy tips on fitting the pipe lol. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...mp;hl=bellmouth

Check out this link it will tell you everything it is the tutorial that dvd50l was talking about. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HI...ing-t58778.html

Fitted my JJR bell mouth dump yesterday to my R33 Ser11 was one of the easiest bolt on exhaust upgrades ever,took about 90min from start to finish including removal of old dump/front pipe.I used 2 allen key bolts on the 2 middle holes where it is closest to the pipe no interference problems with this method also wrapped dump pipe from bell to just below firewall with heat wrap,original turbo gaurd and mount for this went back on without having to alter them at all,trick is start all bolts at bell end first then connect collector end and then return to bell end and tighten all bolts in a cross sequence then tighten collector end last.I have fitted many extractors to v8s and you should try fitting a set to a big block chev into a GTR torana talk about dramas like trying toi stuff a size 12 foot into a size 6 shoe.

Before the reg is between the end of the plenum where the pressure line originates and before it goes into the pressure reg.What car are you fitting it to?

Adam, I have a gismo MS-IBC running on my R33SER2 for about a year and teed into the fuel pressure reg line before the regulator and this one runs to yor boost solinoid and then tee into where the factory boost gauge picks up it's signal from the back of the plenum and run this one through the firewall to the controller in the cab,you will have no problems with this set up and it is accurate.You don,t tee into the line to your bov as this can give false pressure readings to both the gauge/controler and your bov as well.

Must only be southern states mine was cmplied in late2007 in QLD still has stock nissan canister

Spotted White R33 Ser2 GTS-t plate 33TBO about 1:15pm today Logan mway,M1 and Hyperdome

"Past experience" was this with the earlier model as it had poor spike control and no duty cycle adjustments,I had the same comment from my tuner untill he saw the new version I installed,he has now changed his opinion on these controllers.(by the way my tuner is a well known and respected drag race engine builder,racer and tuner here in brisbane he is know considering using one in his 650hp supra)

I have had an ms-ibc in my r33 s2 for over 12mnths now and would recomend it to anyone.was told by a reputable tuner her in brisbane that they wern't that good,until i installed it myself and let him have a play with it,he was shocked at how much they had improved from previous versions which did not have any duty cycle ajustments.This product was so easy to set up that he didn't change any of the settings that I put in myself even after he ran it up on the dyno(I self tuned on the road took about an hour to do all 6 boost levels).This car is driven as a daily driver by my wife and I set levels of boost for driving in very adverse conditions through to all out thrash mode and have knothing but "fun "since.Holds all levels of boost consistantly with no spiking and brings on the boost up to 1000-1500 rpm ealier than standard solinoid.Another advantage that I have found is that both the solinoid and the cotroll unit are small enough to hide away so the powers to be can't find them(have been pulled up a few times and they still havn't discovered it yet Ha HA HA take that.So do touself a favour chech out "GIZMO'S' web site it is very informative,these units are very well priced also lol.

Depending on how deep the bolts have snapped off,try tapping a thread into the manifold and cut some new bolts down to size and screw them in with some loctite stud lock adhesive ,this will last untill you want to change the engine.or buy one eazi out of the right size and replace them propperly they are not that exspensive.hope this helps you