Pun4N1

Same old storey, im in the market with a budget that dont stretch that far um........ by about $20k!!! nice car mate, i have someone in the market that might be keen, i'll direct them to the thread for ya.

from memory all RB's have RB20, RB25, RB26, or RB30, on the left hand side of the motor (exhaust side) about half way down from the top of the block casting. on the 3rd cyliner back from the front

if ya want bigger injectors, go to a wrecker and grab early 4 cylinder mitubishi magna ones have them cleaned, they are massive, i foget the cc's but i know they are a good upgrade for VL Turbo

nice one so blocking it makes more flames? maybe if somone is after flames they can try this and not cause as much damage???? mine is all stock all i have done is bigger turbo,walbro pump, pod and exhaust, the RB family of engines would just about do it from stock wouldnt they? my N/A VL did!

cool let us all know how ya go mate! nothing wors than getting 99.9% there and spening a whole day on the last .1%

yeah it is but oh well! thats the next step, i have done a few mods not with no tune so should really get that done, probably wastin fuel like a mo fo

My 2c, flames are sick we all love em but at the end of the day if your car soes not blow flames from stock making it do so will probably shorten the engines life. i had a straight through exhaust fitted last week and after a good amount of revs at full throttle on decel if just nudge the accelarator as light as ya can it gives a nice bang and a big flame so, maybe try that

this is on an RB30ET but from memory dude there IS a bracket that is anodised gold that goes from the block the the runners, i guess all that alloy would need supporting, having said that your plenum it completely different, sorry disregard my waffling!

is it blowing loads of smoke? un plug the O2 sensor and see if that makes a difference. also unplug your AFM and see if that makes a difference. there is an ignition module on the top at back of the cam cover, the big square-ish flat thing with all the wires. that controls the coil packs this could be the issue. if your spark is breaking down then your bov will acctuate. very VERY slim chance but i could be your throttle position switch too, had a VLT that was cutting out on full throttle coz the TPS was wired in backwards!!! some plonker had put an XF throttle body on there and forgotten to mod the TPS to suit!!!! also check your spark plugs dude, it does sound spark related to me.

Ok, my mate has gone back to Japan now so his olds are going nuts it's not sold yet!!! no one wants it? even if you have friends in the market for a car like this and there is a 1% chance they would make an offer show them the picks last bumpedy bump!

$1600 aint bad. I was looking at paying $2200 back a couple of years ago, that was for an internally gated one.

My 2 cets worth, GT35/40 heaps of them around as they are the ones on BA Falcons, proven to make obscene power. I was going to put on of these on my VLT, i think they rock just just my opinion tho

come on!! its a shweet ride!

Nearly got defect last night the ONLY reason i didn't is because i DONT HAVE A ATMO BOV!!!!

you can wack the FMIC and dumpy on yourself with no negative side effects that i know of and do the other stuff later, am i right lads

all these guys are certainly on the money! dumpy is a wiked mod, i just did mine and the difference in power is insane! you get a better flowing exhaust and a bit more boost chucked in for free!

Make:Nissan Model:Silvia Milage: not sure Transmission:5 Speed Colour:Custom blue/Black Location:Adelaide Complied? Yes RWC supplied?N/A Currently registered?No Price:10,000 VERY negotiable Contact:0433536205 Comments / Modifications:hi all i hope i dont get i trouble for posting a Slivia on here but a mate need his car gone really quick here are the details Heres is what i can remember off the top of my head. I will add more later but am in a rush 1990 Silvia (Build date December 1990) 2 litre Turbo (Upgraded to T28 jap spec ball bearing) 5 Speed Manual Xtreme Clutches heavy duty Drift clutch 3" Turbo back Blitz exhaust Blitz Front mount cooler with Aluminium Blitz pipes Aftermarket Adjustable Castor Rods R33 Radiator Fan and clutch hub (more blades for better cooling) Coilovers All Round (JIC front, Tein Rear) K&N Pod Filter Green Stuff Rear brake pads Walbro Fuel pump BODY AND STYLING Full URAS bodykit Line down side of car removed (gives a nice subtle difference to all other silvias) Boot spoiler and key hole removed Rolled Front guards Rolled and FLARED rear guards Full fresh respray (Toyota Echo blue / Changes between white silver to a cool blue colour) 17" lenzo rims with Bridgestone Tyres (75% tread all round) i was originaly building this to be a drift car but finances and change in situations put an end to that. Extras i can throw in for a bit extra are a Safety 21 half cage, and full skyline R32 5 stud rear brake upgrade kit. Comes with handbrake cables and everything else required. you can find picture on nissan silivia,com at this link http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...232788&st=0 i think at last count he would tak $9500 but it is getting to the stage where that is probably negotiable the number on the thread is mine but i know alot about the car and can help with any questions you have Images:

if they all look ok then they could well be hooked up properly but if your engine breathes really heavey they wont keep up and pressure will eventually build up, especially under boost. a way you can tell if you engine is breathing heavey is to take your oil cap off while the engine is running (the revs will drop coz it's getting un metered air) and just put your had over the hole, if it feels like it is puffing out heavy you have problems if just a tiny bit you should be ok.

hey dude i had a VLT that did exactly that especially after a full throttle drag or something heavy. it turned out the compression rings where not too good and when it came on boost it was presurising the crank case in turn presurising the oil galery in the turbo and pushing oil in to the exhaust through the back of the turbo. i doubt very much the oil is going through your combustion chambers. i tried to eleviate the issue by making the breathers in the cam cover bigger and putting an air/oil seperator and catch can on it. That worked a bit but i ended up needing to re build the engine.

if ya really want the police bait noise PHSSSSS stuff without stalling buy a 1980's nissan exa or mitsubishi startion with NO electroinics and put one on that

you have no blocked you your crank case breathers by any chance have you?

I think our man has got it right here, my R32 was doing a similar thing, it was the ecu backing the timing off because 1. the knock sensors where not plugged in, 2. the O2 sensor was playing up 3. the MAF was dirty. fixed all that and the ecu stopped retarding the timing. does yours tend to level out at a certain rpm an sturggle to gain revs too?

hey dude, i broke 2 teeth of second gear in my rb20 box last week, who knows how it had been driven before me tho, i have had the car only a couple of months. i had 135 rwkw so you might need the upgrade !! although i found out that N/A R34 boxes are the same so i have put one of those in and it is very tight indeed! i wold likt to think a box thats 10 years younger would be a bit better

cool so yeah i suppose it should be similar consumption but needing PULP will cost a little more, i have found BP fuel to last the longest, run the smothest and gives just a bit more power, that might just be me but most of the people i know with turbo cars agree

i guess it would be similar fuel consumption, from memory your car at the moment has 147 kw and is probably automatic and is about 1300kg i suppose, 33's have 171 i think will probably be Manual and are about the same weight so the power to weight ratio is better so the engine does not have to work as hard sooooo in theory should be more econimical but when the boost bug bites your foot gets heavey!!! as far as an intercooler goes if you can get the air cooler it should be more dense but im not sure it will improve your economy as air fuel ratios are all pre programmed by the ecu. i guess it would require some research.