bbenny

Get a regulator instead! way cheaper than buying injectors (new or second-hand) there are many guys running 230rwkw with std RB20 injectors and an aftermarket reg I bought mine from Envy Imports in brookvale. they carry the Sard range and are heaps cheaper than anyone else. Tell them Ben sent you and you demand a discount because you said my name! haha their number is 99074144 they arent open this weekend tho. ask for Herman

the AFR is begining to get a little lean, but nothing too serious at 14psi to remedy the problem fit an adj fuel regulator, you already have the GTR pump, so all you need is the reg to increase the pressure. good results though!

A quick and hopefully easy question. Which way (in or out) do i wind the regulator adjustment to INCREASE pressure? THANKS!

yeah same, mine have been put aside untill i have sorted the ECU probs out

I know there are no problems with my fuel system, everything is brand new and works perfectly well. I suspect Roy is correct assuming the ECU just craps itself and doesnt know what to do. well I might buy a chip off Toshi with all the cut outs and limiters removed and see what happens on the dyno. might run a little more fuel pressure and then fine tune the SAFCII (and before anyone asks, i had the boost cut issues before installing the SAFCII) Seeing as there are a few other making good power with std injectors i will leave them alone. Troy i also agree with you that its not neccessary to go Z32afm at this power level.

Yeah dont worry about me running that boost, because it is running at 12psi only. but as a few of you said, i thought the injectors would have a little more in them. I am running a 650hp intank bosch pump and sard adj reg, so the rest of the fuel system should be able to cope. Would my cutting-out problem be AFM related. i wound the boost uip the otherday, it went to 1.2bar but as soon as it reached around 5500rpm it would cut again... considering that many have gone 230rwkw on std injectors should i really bother as i only expect i will make around 220rwkw once tuned and boost raised?

Hey guys, as some of you know i am ironing out all the minor probs with my R32 and getting it ready for the drags. I have been talking to Toshi over email ragarding a tuned chip for my standard ECU. when i emailed him my last dyno-sheet (as below) he explained that the injectors are already at 100% duty. as you can see the engine does cut out at 5500rpm (I have always thought this was the AFM signal maxing out) is it the injectors? what is the max power std RB20 injectors make? This dyno print was using just over 1bar (anything under 1bar i have no cut-out problems) Cheers Ben.

Cal4SX are you going to reply to anything on here??

Well i will be happy with anything under 13.5 but i do want to run a street radial (in accordance with HPI and japanese regulation) All my support systems are pretty damn good, and i may even take my std front shocks to pedders or someone to have re-valved to suit drag applications. thanks for the info on tyre pressure as that was my next question. regarding spinning the rim inside the tyre, that is something i have been concerned about. at 18psi you think this shouldnt be a prob?

You have PM

wow thats a pretty impressive time sydneykid. Ill only do the street tyre thing tho. But i would be extremely happy if i could get in the 12s. I am considering throwing in the standard suspension (as i have stiff coilovers for the street) unfortunately i only have either my standard wheels (with decent tyres) or a set of 18x8.5 with 225/40 Falken tyres Obviously the 18s are alot wider, but very low profile, whilst the standard tyres will have more give, but not the width... Which do you think would be better? I would like to get some crappy 17s and run Nittos, but my budget doesnt permit... I just dont know which setup to run.

well it would cost you $5000 to put in a 2.5 but then you would still have a standard engine not puting out alot of power. I guess the question comes down to whether you plan to make further modifications. If you only want to spend $5000 and leave it at that, you may find you will get more power by modifying the RB20. rather than having to buy and install an RB25, as you wont have alot of change after the conversion. However if you plan to perform further mods, having the 2.5 will be a great advantage... what are your plans with the car?

I have been reading many threads on how much power it takes to run whatever time. But i want to know what other R32GTS-T have run down the quarter. I have slowly been ironing out all the minor probs with mine and am ready to run it down the quarter. I am runnig a HKS2530 and am putting out 210rwkw@1bar. The computer is going in for a tune and boost wound to 1.1 or 1.2bar (you tell me what i can get away with?) i expect to have around 220rwkw once tuned. What sort of time should i expect? (assuming i am a competent driver with decent tyres and sus for the drags) What times has everyone else done in there R32's?

Yhea like roy said, make sure you get the height correct from the deck. originally mine sounded like it sucked air when the tank was low and on a couple of occasions when going up a steep hill and giving it some gas, it would give a quick jerk (obviously not getting any fuel. so get the height right and its a piece of cake to fit.

Unless you have an RB20DET then expect to add another $200 at least as they are modified by AP engineering.

Yeah i also have an SAFC II and i have heard so many ppl with problems when changing to a Z32 AFM. that is your problem there. either go back to standard or go PFC. I dont think the SAFC really has the best ability to control a different AFM reading and convert it to the std ECU.

Sorry guys this is SOLD

Ok i just also found the Nismo lightened flywheel to match i will add this for another $50 Ben.

you will be very hard pressed getting a lower lip 2nd hand. I searched for over 3months without any luck. tried a guy in NZ who ripped me off... your best bet will be biting the bullet and getting one off Nissan Aus.

if it causes alot of flutter the spring tension is probably too tight (if that model does have adjustable tenstion) loosen off the tension bolt and see how you go. if it doesnt get another BOV infact... just buy my BOV which is for sale! it is adjustable! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=40229 But i know when mine is wound up too tight it flutters, but if i loosen its ok

Bump

well my mechanic told me to put it in my car (32 GTS-T) so i assume it goes in both GTR and GTS. i think it is about $750 or so for new plates. but im not 100% sure.

Well i have this Nismo twin plate kicking around in the garage, left from my Dads GTR which he recently sold. It does need new clutch plates, but otherwise looks pretty damn good. the Nismo clutches are made by Exedy (unsure about spelling) so plates shouldnt be too hard to get or too expensive. Price is $100 for a quick sale. prefer syd buyer so i dont have to ship this thing. PM me if interested I JUST FOUND THE MATCHING LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL. WILL THROW IN FOR $50