bbenny

its extremely responsive. makes 12psi at a little over 3000rpm and really begins to pull hard from 3500rpm. it will make over 20psi by 3500rpm, because when it comes on boost it does so very quickly, so i think it would only need a few more rpm to make high boost. once i get the ecu tuned ill run it at about 18psi and let you know.

well im making 210rwkw with my 2530 on 12psi std computer (untuned) if i run anymore boost i max out the AFM signal. i hope to get around 225rwkw with a bit more boost and tuned ECU. my injectors will be running out of puff by then.

oh man what a nighmare today was! spend bloody hours on it! replaced the alternator, and the battery and the thing still had the same symptoms... so after hours of fitting and refitting alternators and putting the cooler piping back in place i got the multi meter out, and checked each fuse under the dash, one of them was dead... replaced it and now everything works fine! finished fitting the catch can too - with sexy braided lines anyway my car is functioning 100% and purring like a putty cat!

yeah i have the greddy one. i dunno if its just my car, but i clearly get oil running into the mouth of my turbo. thats one reason why i invested in the can. the greddy one catches that oil in the can and allows only gas to flow to the intake. other models actually have a filter and claim to remove any oil vapour or harmful gasses (impossible) and only send purified air to the intake... but i think the best way is not to let any of that crappy air, filtered or unfiltered back into the intake.

yeah the SAFC II one is stuffed on there, i couldnt manage to get an english one, just got my neighbour to translate the wiring diagram. once thats done and you have entered the engine specs you will be able to work it out. its pretty straight forward.

yeah the HKS 2530s are reasonable in price too! when i was shopping the std price was around $1800. just try get it with all the fittings and lines if possible, i ended up forking out an extra $500 for lines and fittings. mind you i went braided with all the wanker anodized fittings... and you cant see much of it anyway haha

Battery, alternator or something else! hey guys, today i was driving my car and noticed the rev tacho not moving at all, just stuck on 0rpm. then when i started the car later the std boost gauge, oil pressure and water temp were all on zero... then as i drove on further the elec windows wouldnt go and then the power steering started to die... my SAFC II still works and only reads 10volts. is it simply a flat battery (it is a couple of years old now) or would it be the alternator? its just weird how things slowl began to stop functioning... any ideas? thanks! Ben

haha ok, maybe im not explaining myself properly. i understand that it is a straight can, designed to catch the oil from the rocker cover and only send air to the intake. HOWEVER i want to know if it possible to block the PVC and intake plug, and run two lines, one from each rocker to the can. if i do this will i have to insert a breather in the can? is this safe on the engine? i know it is illegal to vent those vapours to the atmo on a street car, but this is not of concern. any advice would be great.

well this has no internal filtering system, it is simply an aluminium can, it just stops any liquid from circulating back to the intake. if i drill another hole into the can and fit a breather. would i be able to block both PCV and the intake plug safely?

according to the box it came in, im supposed to have one line run from the rocker cover to the can, then the other line from the can to the intake (before turbo) that will stop oil from getting into the intake, but continues to let the vapours flow back into the system. i want to remove these vapours from comming back in. how would best acheive this with the system i have?

Im just about to install my catch can (on an RB20DET), but just wanted to be sure i am fitting it correctly, ensuring no damage to anything else. i have done some research on the forum so dont tell me to do a search please. Basically i want to know if it is ok to block the intake line (plug before the turbo) and the valve in the plenum (PCV) then run a line from each rocker cover to the catch can. is this correct? The can only has two fittings for hoses. will i have to make another to fit a small filter, or some sort of breather/venting hole? One other thing - is it true that doing this will cause dangerous vapours to damage my head? i dont want any blowby oil or vapour running back into the intake system, as i understand they promote detonation. Any advice would be much appreciated. p.s i do understand that any vapours venting to atmo is illegal. but i am not concerned as its probably for track use only. thanks Ben

to get 200rwkw you wont have to do anything to your intake and exaust manifolds. infact to reach 200rwkw you dont have to do all that much. as you suggested, get an exaust, intercooler, pod filter, boost controler or bleed valve. with these mods, my RB20 made 170rwkw. since then i fitted a 2nd hand HKS2530 turbo. and running about 12psi i am already making 210rwkw. but its time to do something about factory management as im maxing the AFM. should be able to make another 20rwkw once either aftermarket management is installed or re chip the ECU. also upgrade fuel pump and reg. ben

after an aluminium catch can. something good looking for a well presented engine bay. is for an R32 GTS-T (incase it comes in a kit form or something) PM me if you have anything! thanks Ben

ive just put 18X8.5 all round and they fit perfectly filling out the guards without having to roll any lips or anything. i have no idea what the offset is. will it be stamped on the wheel anywhere? if so ill check it out and let you know. Note the car is alse lowered with Tein coilovers

i want in too!

How does a bleed valve have an anti wastegate creep mechanism? i understand how an electronic item can sense pressure imput and change the actuator position. but am unsure how the bleed valve does. thanks! ben

i wouldnt go anything smaller than a HKS2530 i have one on my RB20 and its very responsive, but for your RB25 it would be even more so, i wouldnt go any smaller. from what i have ready the HKS turbos tend to make more positive boost at lower RPM than garrett spec turbos, so if you are after low down response go HKS.

yeah with the turbosmart gear i have found that they actualy spike higher than what you set, then drop back to the setting. so it prob feels faster because its hitting that boost level a little higher then dropping to the setting.

before raising the boost, invest in an exaust, filter and intercooler. stock boost is 6 or 7psi once you have upgraded as above move it to 12-14psi.

I got it done at Procar Dyno in Cromer Heights (Nthn Beaches) Tel: 99815099 you should be good to run 12psi on standard pump with standard computer, but when i fitted my 2530 i was running lean on 12psi. anyhow you will be able to tell whether or not when its being tuned on the Dyno

yeah DO NOT tune your SAFC unless its on a dyno, it only cost me $80 to tune mine on a dyno.

oh and u can buy those Tpeices from any automotive store, or even a garage.

haha i doubt he is fitting it on a non-turbo model. you need to buy a T peice fitting for your vacume line, then run it into one of the vacume hoses comming from the inlet manifold, i dont have a pic to make it any easier, but there are several vacume lines you can tap into, im pretty sure that most of the little vacume hoses sticking into the inlet (plenum) will be ok to tap into. ill try take a pic tonight if no-one else has made it easier for you.

Check your PM

there is another one called FC logit, i think its made by some group in NZ they tested it in either ZOOM od HPI a couple of months back with a very positive review. otherwise you just have to buy the H/C.