STIVS6

OK OK OK OK $2200 and its yours!!!!

Bump $2400 NEEDS TO GO

Will throw in the auto transmission as well

BUMP! $2600

Tidy R33 series 1 engine with Genuine Greddy intake manifold. RB26 engine covers New water pump New tensioner pulleys Gates timing belt Adjustable exhaust cam pulley Standard exhaust manifold. Standard Fuel rail and injectors Any questions please ask. She runs well and doesn't blow smoke (shit T3/T4 turbo does until it warms up, I will include that if you want it) Also have chrome intake pipe, trust pod, ecu, loom and standard AFM and Biltz BOV that comes with the engine. Bunch of other shit too! Picture in avatar<<<<< $2800 for the lot ONO 0400 126 256 Stivva

Tidy R33 series 1 engine with Genuine Greddy intake manifold. RB26 engine covers New water pump New tensioner pulleys Gates timing belt Adjustable exhaust cam pulley Standard exhaust manifold. Standard Fuel rail and injectors Any questions please ask. She runs well and doesn't blow smoke (shit T3/T4 turbo does until it warms up, I will include that if you want it) Also have intake pipe, trust pod, ecu, loom and standard AFM and Biltz BOV to pair with the engine. Bunch of other shit too! Picture in avatar<<<<< $2800 for the lot ONO 0400 126 256 Stivva

$50 - good condition. Not had oil in it. Pick up in Pakenham

Still have the AFM?

Can I have a another photo of the AFM? of the front (to see damage)

BTW - It goes into N instead of 4 (OD)

Hi Guys, I wired in a MV autos manual shift box for my r33 4 speed and soon afterwards lost forth gear. The guys from MV said it might be a bolt that holds the band in place. I am going to take it to get a look at, but is there any other opinions on this before I do just so I don't get ripped at the Automatics shop.

Can you please recommend a place to purchase a 3500+ Hi stall from. I have contacted MV automatics and Yarra Valley Automatics. MV quoted me $690 + $100 deposit until they receive my original stall converter. Yarra Valley quoted me $800-$900 with no exchange. I guess one that is not based of an old one is better, but perhaps you have purchased a Hi Stall from some one that you would recommend. I am fitting myself, so no prices to include fitting.

Sup... (Don't answer, rhetorical). I have the factory r33 auto without the wiring loom (as I was informed, that the auto loom is part of the body loom) and it is not possible to fit. So I have had it running fully manual mode. I as informed by a few auto shops that it would be ok, but I still worry. Does anyone have any suggestions about this? Or should I be worried. I know I should go manual, but the accessories are hard to come by to fit it. So my questions. Can I shift it manually? Is that ok? Any accessories fitted, are they affected (clutches, stallys etc)? Is there any other options, other than manual? LOL Oh, I also have a trans cooler to look after the temps.

Champion! Spotted that spade connector with no wire. I guess I have yanked it off. Once I have tidied up I will crank it and let you know how it goes. Cheers pal. I hope this is the cause... would it explain the fuel pumps not priming? Are they connected at all? May be in my car with the rewire, since everything else is incorrect. Car is cranking with that plugged on! Cheers mate, owe you a beer. I will let you know how I go with the umps once everything else is plugged in.

Will do dude. I took off my intake plenum. First impressions look good (which may be bad) as the start has power and can't see any immediate issues. Quick, but stupid question perhaps. I have unplugged all the sendors on the intake side to disassemble the intake plenum. Would having those disconnected now stop me from cranking over the engine now? Talking TPS, injectors ect. Just to see if the starter and pumps are active?

Your correct and I need to rephrase. The starter is not turning leading me to believe I have dislodged a wire. But I usually prime the fuel pump first (turning the key to ignition and holding it there before turning it over) and the 044 is fairly loud, but now nothing.

Would that affect my fuel pump???

I have been out having a look for a little while now. I am stumped. I have disconnected my battery and reconnected it. Looked over my wiring and got my handy test light out, I have power from my ignition fuses. I have checked my fuel pump relay and ignition relay. I am convinced that I have pulled a wire I shouldn't have (check the first post). Any ideas???? The car was running perfectly the night before. I think I really have broken it.

I was playing around underneath my car (drivers side under intake plenum, from the bottom of the car). I was plugging in the knock sensor wires which were sitting at the back of the block so I had to give them a little yank forwards to get the front wire free. Could I have pulled out the starter motor wire as the car is no longer starting and it was the night before, before I touched anything, lol. I have to pull my intake plenum off on the weekend, to tidy up some wires, but is there anything I should look for? Oh, the car is not cranking over at all. There is plenty of power in the battery. Just dead silence. Edit, just checked the car again, last sentance promted me too. I couldn't hear my fuel pumps priming. Checked my fuses and none appear to be blown, but headlights are bright, so plenty of power

Set up your dual port like this

I have an aftermarket one on as it was easier to fit the fuel lines. I have it set to stock levels though, but will keep an eye on it. I will take a look at the suggestion made today, and let you guys know how I go. Cheers!

Thanks mate, you have helped alot already, I owe ya big time. I knew the smoke was fuel, you can smell it, but i don't want to turn down the reg lol.

Half a million VLs cant be wrong lol.... nah. Better than it going in a another VL (leh) lol, or it being put in a 240z and desicrating that (whats wrong with the L series engines anyway? ). Just mating a nice engine with a nice body. Seen worst acts in skylines anyways... It doesn't blow too much black smoke, only when revved up, and from the smell, I am 99% sure its unburnt fuel. And it doesnt really run to shit, pretty smooth, and doesn't stall when revved lower. So BOV? Can I block it off and give that a run, or do I really need a plumb back to do diog? I will get it tuned, but I wont the nagging issues that I may have missed sorted first. SO, just looking at things I may have missed before hand first.

Oh, I appreciate the help, but I don't know what common problems are with rb's I never owned one, and wouldn't know the problem was common to search.

Crikey! I didn't realize skyline forum dwellers could be as bad as VN owners on the Street Commodores forum. But Nismoid, that was uncalled for, and a little unfair. Perhaps even just plain f**king rude. I have the engine in my VS, the car in a million peices and I can't just take it to get tuned until the thing is roadworthy. I don't have a factory bov, the halfcut I got never came with one! Always check your purchase out hey?! I didn't realize this was a spelling police forum either! NZM.031 - I dont have the problems with the guards and piping, but I think you guys may be on to something with vacuum leaks, they are so ongoing! Can you get aftermarket plumb back blow off valve to suit the same flange as the blitz? I do have an 044 external pump and a large pick up pump. Surge tank and rising rate reg. Is there any vacuum lines I need to be carefull of? Things easy to miss?