dmonic1

i was wondering if someone could actually post up something definate regarding this S2 RWD issue. i have completly no idea if you guys are talking about the rear or front brakes. im sure i have been told that R34 and or R33 rear calipers and discs are a straight swap but the problem appears to be with the front brake set up. i was just wndering if anybody had tried to change the complete hub caliper and disc assembly from a 33. something must be different to cause the difference in offset

thats the same ECU that Brett down at Graham West Dyno's said he would use if i ever wanted to TRY and use an aftermaket ecu with an auto. He said it would require some R&D to find the logic from the trans to the ecu but he reckons it can be done, but it's one hell of a wham in the wallet. He rang me the other day and said he reckons he has found a way to completly reprogram the series2 ecu for a drive in drive out price of about $1200. i already have a PFC here to use so im trying to decide if i should convert to manual at a cost of about $2000 plus a dyno tune for the pfc or just shift kit the auto and go the SAFC + SITC route that alot of others have done and recoop some of the cost by selling the pfc.

looks like a big round bus. im thinking L300 on steroids. take the stag for style anyday. and the fact that it's still only a 4 cylinder would make me think how practicull it could be for long distance driving or lugging around decent size loads or 5 adults.

good question but how does converting a car to manual change it's safety or road worthiness. A RWD manual Stagea is essentially an R33 or R34 GTS-T skyline in a wagon body and the fact that stageas allbeit only AWD ones came factory as manuals also i should think it would be a nullenvoid issue. im planning on converting my RSV RWD to a maual and if a cop wants to tell me it has to be an auto or get it off the road i will just run him over. lol

i myself just fitted what looks to be the exact same hard induction pipe to my Series2 Stag. i was having problems with the stock rubber one collapsing at around 12+psi. just a little note, nothing lined up once installed. the plum back blow off valve and crank case breather lines do not line up. it might be different if u have a series1 aka R33 but just thought i should let u know. my car is running fine with out the blow off valve venting to atomsphere and hasnt stalled once yet but i do get a lot more backfires and flames now. on the up side it made one hell of a difference to the power my car makes up high in the rev range due to the much better airflow and consistent volume between AFM and turbo. just a quick question, what are u going to use to run the Z32 AFM. is that what the gizmo is for or do u have SAFC or similar allready on ur car.

pm's replied atleast $500. these are still pretty hard to come across and wreckers and importers are asking for way more than that.

i just upgraded the turbo and intercooler on my S2 stagea (R34 Neo) so i have the factory stuff for sale. both in great nick as my car has just ticked over 60,000km. the only problem is that the turbo has no actuator as i used it on my new highflow turbo. open to offers and willing to seperate or whatever.

i just upgraded the turbo and intercooler on my S2 stagea (R34 Neo) so i have the factory stuff for sale. both in great nick as my car has just ticked over 60,000km. the only problem is that the turbo has no actuator as i used it on my new highflow turbo. open to offers and willing to seperate or whatever.

yeah i was thinking i might have a small air / vacume leak somewhere as when i boost it i get a little whistle from somewhere other than the normal boost noise. i already have a decat pipe and i have been told that i pop flames on up changes when it tickles the limiter.

my car has all of a sudden started to backfire or pop while decelerating. it normally happens while just cruising on the speed limit or so and when i back off for reasons like traffic or coming up to a corner the car will occasionaly give a lttle pop out the exhaust. its nothing loud like the old key bangers i used to do to scare the shit out of pedestrians in the sigma but i was just wondering why it would just start happenening. i fitted the new turbo and front mount a month or so ago so the only reason i can think of is because its so cold at the moment. i adjusted the blow of valve so that it is at its hardest setting but it is a plumb back anyway.

series 1 or 2

well positive and negative is all the same regardless with wiring so that wont be hard to overcome shoudln't be to hard to get the pump into the stag bracket. so with any luck i will make it work. cant complain for $300 all up.

cheers chook i thought i would see it once i pulled mine out. its a tomei pump for a 34 skyline. should be the same set up in the stag shouldnt it

hi guys i got my fuel pump and pressure reg delivered today. something else came in the box which im not quite sure about. it came in a genuine nissan box and has "A VALVE CUT" on it. i am yet to pull my pump out so im not sure where it goes or what it does. it is in the picture on the bottom right.

you are running a s14 subframe arent you. did u break any before u did that mod. i see that it is the cv joint that has gone all destructo on you. is it possible that the narrower track has changed an angle that the axles rotate at and put to much strain on the cv's. im thinking of putting the s14 subframe in my car to reduce the track and get my tyres to fit under the guards a little better but im worried that it might bring them to close to the suspension or will the struts move inwards enough to keep the same clearence. sorry i cant help you out with any thicker axle ideas

u barely have to cut the rio to be honest. the rio is like a piece of C channel and i only had to take a small section the length of the cooler from the underside of the rio. such a small price to pay for such an easy instalation. its a pitty the pipe didnt go over the top of cooler as then more of the cooler would be in open airspace but never mind. i put my number plate infront of the bottom pipe and put it on an angle to deflect more air upwards through the cooler.

they used my standard wastegate actuator but made it an adjustable one. i specified that i wanted to run 8psi so thats what they set it at. i turned the boost up to 10psi earlier tonight and wham what a difference. 100km/h comes really quickly now. cant wait for the manual to go in so i can run the power fc and give it a tune so i can really unleash what i now have under the bonnet.

just a note to people with split type dumps that have the fitting for that press fit into the standard turbo's exhaust wheel. u will have to cut that fitting off and die grind the opening out if u are going to fit a high flowed turbo. a high flowed turbo will have a larger exhaust wheel and if u leave that fitting in u will greatly reduce the flow of ur new turbo.

yeah it is the cooling pro stealthkit. i think they are the same for r33 and r34. i got it on ebay for $499 plus $40 postage. u have to trim a small section out of the rio and relocate your horns. i had to take a fair bit out from the back of the front bar but if u take ur time u can get it to look really nice and clean. i found the hardest thing to do was the remove and replace of thr front bar and getting the original cooler out as the rubber hoses are really stuck on there. about my turbo i put it on yesterday and took about 4 or so hours with the help from a mate. i payed $2350 for the turbo and a complete hose kit which bill sources for you. u have to supply a front compressor housing or its $2500 as he charges $150 for a compressor housing. now i have no piggy backs and i only have an exhaust 3 inch of the turbo no cat, trust air pod and the front mount. at the moment i am going to keep it at stock boost. took it for a drive and u can tell straight away that there is a bit more lag, needs more timing down low. when u sink the boot into it comes onto boost just before 3000rpm and for me at 8psi is there at about 3500rpm. the big thing for me is that it holds there all the way through the rev range and the power feels strong. ( bugger it im going to put the boost controler and wind it up abit) my next steep is to put the manual box in so i can put my power fc in. i have a z32 afm, tomei fuel pump and a nismo pressure reg to put in yet also and then i will up the boost. im really looking to get 250 + RWK

there are plenty of sedans around that have been registered after having the roof chopped off to make convertibles. a few extra chassis rails for strength before the chop so it doesnt all coolapse sheet metal the cab in and add a window then fabricate a drop in rear tray and after a few thousand man hours u might have one.

i would like to take this opportunity to give a big plug to Bill at Adelaide Turbo Services (ATS). i picked up my turbo today so i know what im doing tomorrow. very professional and definatly knows his shit. i got him to build me a highflowed GT30. he has used a stock compressor housing and machined it out and fitted a dual ball bearing garret core and a garret ehxaust houising to suit the standard flange and dump pipe and machined that out to fit the larger wheel. so from the outside it will all look stock but should give a very big woosh.

if u guys think that looks killer then what about this one.

just thought i would put a couple of pics up with my new cooler in behind a dayz bar. it fits but required some serious massaging of the bar to clear the cooler and piping. im going to put some spot lights infront of the end tanks to clean it up a bit

if the actuator arm was bent it would probably produce more boost as that would more than likely make it shorter and harder to open to waste gate. i do think however if it has slipped off then yeah you would get next to no boost. i am driving with no actuator at the moment as the guys who are building my new turbo needed it. not fun driving around in an N/A car with a turbo bolted on. but a decent mechanic shop should have spotted this straight away.

cooler is mounted but just have to go to work tomorrow and cut the reo and bar a little bit. also just a picture of the power fc i got.