dmonic1

ok so at a guess, with my S2 which is an RSV RWD only with traction control i should be able to plug in a R34 pfc and just be able to drive my car to a tunning shop. it is an auto but i dont really care when the box goes as it will get me off my ass to put a manual one in. i only have a filter and an exhaust so far but more mods are planned. anything else i should know? does the pfc have the capability to upgrade the AFM to Z32 etc.

RWD stageas have traction control well mine does anyway, i have an on/off button on the dash for it. i thought the secret squirel tweak was to stop the coils burning out. there was an article on an R34 auto with a shift kit running a haltech in an issue of fast fours or hot fours a little while. apparently with no problems???? i might try and find that issue and post it up.

i have been thinking of contacting them also so im glad u did. will be keen also to hear any feedback. what spring rate are u thinking of ordering as they set them to whatever u want.

Well what a great night. Might i suggest name tags next with our first name and forum name on them. Im so bad with names. Seeing all the heads turn, down at the bay after a few stags went past and people started to realise what the heck was goin on was pretty cool. Cant wait for the next one.

just wondering if anyone has scene this on ebay. would it be practical on my neo stag http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A:IT&ih=017 and this one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A:IT&ih=004

i work in a factory in regency park and am the powder coater there. i dont have sand blasting at my disposal but i can paint anything u want. dont have all the colours under the sun but i can assure u of a good job.done a few sets in my time plus other engine parts etc. i will just leave clear coating to u guys (spray can will do fine) or i can buy clear powder finish at an extra cost but that just depends on how many people want parts done as it will leave the finish in better condition for a longer time. i dont like to advertise that i do this as a job much cause everybody wants something done but im glad to help out everynow and then.

i have an 8th mnth 98 model series2. brought an r34 AM Performance split down down pipe that fitted but didnt meet up to original cat as my car seemes to be a change over model between S2 and S1 models. turns out early S2's have an r33 down pipe length but i live in Adelaide and the guy that builds them is around the corner so had him make a decat pipe. The drive to his place with just the dump pipe was exciting though. 3 inch S/S Trust Power Extreeme 2 cat back ($760 from car toys)was fitted in less than half an hour without even jacking the car up of the ground. i havent heard another stagea other than mine but i know mine sounds sweet as and sounds like it is flowing very freely.

i had my car locked the other day but with the windows down (force of habit to lock the car) and realised that i had forgoten something so i reached in and unlocked the door grabbed my stuff and all of a sudden the horn started blarring at me. scared the bejesus out of me. has anybody come across this before in one of there cars. the importer that i got the car of didnt even realise it had an alarm. i have found a little switch on the d/s kick panel that turns of the flashing led on the dash but i havent gotten around to testing if it has anything to do with the actual alarm.

not that i get a picture at the moment until i have the money to buy a tuner from chook but i can have my tv on and listen to channel 9 when im driving. does this mean that i have one of those overide buttons. i dont have any sort of unusual button anywhere on the dash.

sounds like a great route RubyRS4. nothing to crazy and will leave us with some fuel left over afterwards to get home. lol. it would be nice to get about 10 of us but do we even have that many stags on the road here in SA. has anybody even tried to organise an adelaide cruise b4, if not we should be able to turn some heads by just cruising around in a relaxed manner and hopefully not from the wrong people.

ikea car park is a good place to meet. its big and central and a good starting point to go to the bay or town and up the hills to lofty and back down again. i drive a barge (no suspension mods yet) and have a pretty stock car also so im keen on something pretty relaxed and just a chance to meet some of u guys. the 25th sounds like a pretty good night and as it's a public holiday i wont have to work till 11pm that night.

i have been waiting for someone to organise one of these. i have only scene 2 or 3 other stageas driving around but only out of the corner of my eye. im in for sure.

hey guys i have just had 1 coil break down and as my car is under warranty i can get it replaced at no charge. they offered me to buy splitfires and they would only charge me for 5 and replace them with no labour charge. was just wondering if anybody had some really stuffed coils laying around that i could put on my car so that i could get the cost down a bit more. i figure i have a warranty so why not use it.once replaced i will then have a few good coils here at home for anybody to use or have if ever the need shall arrise. cheers guys.

well then i must try and drive my car till it get really low. i have only ever been able to squze 55 lt into my car whenever i have filled it up and i normally have driven anywhere from 450 to just over 500 km when i fill up. it seems to me that there is still a fair bit of fuel left when the gauge reads empty.

i just went for a trip over easter, Adelaide to bordertown and back. i have a series II RSV auto and filled up when i left and when i was just over 100 kms from home and just touching the 1/4 mark i filled up again. i had done 471 km and had used 54L. i seem to have a 60l tank so maybe the rwd's have an extra 5 ltr capacity. i consistently get around 480 to 520 km around town. i dont seem to get that much better economy when im out on the open road but i think i need to get my trans serviced as im not really sure if it kicks into over drive properly. my car sits on or just under 3000rpm at 110km/h does that sound about right to u guys or is that higher than normal. as far as i know the autos are a 4 speed with overdrive or is fouth the overdive gear. mods are full exhaust with decat pipe and a trust airinx air filter

im in. i hate the stock gauges, cant see shit at night time. what is the rules with these and defects?

also im only turning the back wheels and dont carry any extra weight when i dont have to. stock boost, air filter and full exhaust and a new O2 sensor

i will admit that it only just gets 500km and yes that is with easy driving but i still only have a pretty stock car and unlike some of the dyno charts i have scene on here my A/F ratios are pretty good until its up in the boost. i also drive around in 3rd gear when im doing 60km/h so my car isnt struggling and it allows the the torque converter to be more locked up. 60km/h in fourth it sits at 1600 to 1700 rpm and that is below the stall of the converter.

thanks heaps guys. i like the idea of being the first to do something to one of these cars. it seems like everything has been done by someone. no way will i be selling my car to get an AWD manual. im getting 500km or more per tank of fuel and thats with no piggy backs or adjustments made to fuel or the ignition and i would assume it will omly get better once i put the manual in (right foot depending). i will probably go for an emanage ultimate over the pfc as im not sure if i will be able to keep the traction control if i change the computer. does any one know if an r34 maual ecu will plug in or will i need to source a stagea one, thats if RWD stageas ever came out manual. also has anyone ever modified the foot brake to allow for room for the clutch pedal or do u need to get rid of it to allow for the clutch bracket. i was thinking of cutting it shorter and bending it so it was out of the way cause it would be very embarassing to accidently slam the brake on in the middle of a drag. just seems like a much cheaper and easier option than getting a new console and shit.

well i put my new exhaust on the other day and i love it. It's a Trust Power Extreme II. Has helped dramatically with fuel consumption and im now getting figures of around 500km per tank on Shell V Power. What i really hate is that now i can hear every slip and slow gearchange the trans does. i have been thinking about doing a manual conversion and this has just tipped the scales cause i dont want to be just another auto skyline with a big exhaust. did think about a valve body upgrade but what the heck. i know a heap of u guys have done the conversion before but i have only read about AWD conversions. my stag is only RWD and i just wanted to get some extra info on a few things. the parts list for u AWD guys read that u need GTR pedals (clutch anyway) and other GTR parts and that the tail shaft is the same length for auto and manual. will i be requiring the same GTR parts to do my conversion or will i just be able to use GTST parts. any idea if i will be able to keep my traction control also if i go to a PFC after the conversion. cheers for any info

when connecting a dvd player to this tuner does it matter whether it is a pal or ntsc player

well it says it's for er34 models which as far as i know have the same tip tronic transmission that we have. the cvt boxes are in the v35's etc.

unfortunatly not. u have to be member to use the site. i didnt realise that sorry. it is only a registration though form.

just was wondering what this could be. it looks to me to be a unit that could change the shift pattern and torque converter lock up of our transmissions. has anybody scene one before or tried one. http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...title=TREC%20AT

(1)does anybody on here know how the the auto trans ecu communicates with the engine ecu. (2)is there a trigger wire to signify an up shift or is there a series of information past to and from each ecu during the process of a gear change. (3)does anybody by any chance have the pin outs of the auto ecu. i have the engine ecu pinouts but just need to find out how the two ecu's communicate. i have a friend at haltech who is going to try and determin if he can use the rpm based ignition retard flat shit map in nissan automatic vehicles. the map isnt load dependable but is programable at intervalls of 500rpm and will control ignition timing if a triger signal can be found. there "could be" a new range of haltech ecu's coming out in the near future that will be an advancement in piggy back computing. instead of being wired into the loom before the ecu and altering or bending the signals ( dfa, sitc etc )from the standard sensors like our MAF signals. the new ecu's will also be able to be wired after the standard ecu and catch the ignition and injector signals and add correction values to them. allowing for full control of all engine requirements while still leaving the standard ecu in place to control procedures that are to hard to dupilcate when using a stand alone ecu. i havent had my stagea long but im sick of reading about how everone has given up and put the idea of having a properly controlable ecu in an auto in the to hard basket. if i have to go and road test my car with a test light on or muli meter on every wire on the ecu i will but im hoping someone has the wiring diagrams somewhere. But i didnt tell any of u guys about this. hint hint as its just hearsay atm thanks heaps if u got this far as all ur help will be appreciated. im not going to rest until i get this or something to work so i can give us auto guys what we want. Cheers dave