BOOSTMEISTER

I had one...sounded like a turbo smart, just plain old pssshhh and I was running a bar. biggest problem is the sound deadening under the bonnet.

Yes I finally got round to taking a pic of my new beast. The words from my mechanic were...."Sorry Cam but its the least powerful car we have ever dynoed" Some times it is hard to work out why I sold a 215rwkw R32 so I could by a 47rwkw MU. The worst part was that I discovered after buying it that the 4wd didn't work and the front end was damaged. Its all fixed now though so time for some BF Goodridge mud terrain tyres and a 3" lift Right click and save as here to download a morph of my 32 to the MU (Kinda a badly done)

I'd go between the powersteer res and the abs unit. make a bracket off the nuts from the upper control arm that come throught the strut tower then connect it to the catch can. I relocated my carbon canister to there to mount my oil catch can down the front.

Lifting the car by 3" will NOT change how much weight is at each corner ???? Sounds like someone is trying to rip you. I did my own suspension tune using some industrial scales at the local transport shop and found that the car sat really weird as one side is higher than the other and it didn't feel any different to before so I just put it back to normal. Just make sure it sits the same height on both sides with a touch more height in the rear.

www.are.com Go the mild steel with HPC coating, best compromise in weight and best heat properties...Also, manderal bent pipes are way way way better than press bent versions....read Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost" to see why, he also explains why haveing your pipe joins to far apart where the silicon connectors are will drop your power and also why at the front of your car you shouldn't have a angled bumper to aim the air into your intercooler...this actually reduces the efficiency. Read and learn folks

The vent hole MUST be in the first 3rd of the bonnet to extract hot air, the way air moves under the bonnet is kinda weird and if you place the vent near the rear it will do next to nothing. Just don't put it above the battery, plugs or air filter. Idealy it should be just behind the radiator, most of the good vents actually go down behind the radiator to help draw the air out.

I have always liked your photo's, great effort again.

Sorry guys but they DO increase the top end power AND the bottom at the same time. Done it on two cars now.

Gts-t VSPEC My bad, I didn't really explain my self. What I guess I was trying to say was that if your tuner is doing gears for the first time on your engine type then it can take a long time as settings on one engine can be totally different from another....i.e. The settings for the RB26DETT can't be used on my mates car as they offer no performance and in fact actually reduce power in the top end. We tried those settings first but with no sucess. I agree with you that if the tuner has done them before with the same motor then it should only take a couple of hours but not the first time and this is what most people around will experience.....there aren't a lot of tuners that have done gears, especially in Queensland.

2 HOURS ???? I don't think so..... See this is where spending time with the tuner while he does his thing helps. You can't just adjust the gears without touching other things like fuel etc especially when you have an aftermarket ecu or afc for example. Oops sorry well you could but you will not get the most out of the time spent not to mention that when a car is tuned to the limit of its hardware you have far less tolerance for error so it is so important to make sure everything is spot on. Basically you can't change one thing without it making an effect on another.

Hi Guru here They are actually "Zelda" I believe and are sold by TRIAL in Japan their site is www.trial.co.jp Hope thats what you were after.

And this is the exact reason I don't use a "Normal mechanic" The above specs yeld about 2rwkw in the bottom end and reduce top end power by nearly 5rwkw.....This is why you spend the dollars to have them tuned. Think about it, you do one run, stop the car get out loosen inlet gear half a degree, tighten then do another run and so one till each setting is done on the inlet, then you do the same on the exhaust onyl this time you have to remove the CAS each time you do it. Basically if you want the job done right then you ca't cut corners. Naturally we didn't pay full price for the dyno time as our tuner realises that he is also learning and this is invaluable for him. Cam

The cam gears are very strange things. The most we got in the mid range was about 4rwkw but then the top end didn't have as much. The car was on the dyno for over 8 hours that day and vitually every combo was used, graphed and then we decided on the best option. Unfortunatly every car will be different depending on turbo, exhaust etc so giving out the specs is pointless, plus the fact that it cost him soooo much to have them tuned, I don't blame him for not wanting to share those details.

1 hour WEST of Brisbane I believe.....Its on the way to Toowoomba

Clint, yes you can run over 20psi on a stock rb20det but the room for error is so tiny that its not worth it. Previously the car had made the same power with 21psi but now with some more fine tuning it closer to 18psi but I am not 100% sure. He drives it every day and has not problems apart from the wheel spin...read:Twin Plate OS clutch Price for the car (Now with rear seat and carpet) is around the 20K mark but I am not sure exactly.

Just another one of the cars at the shop (Mildly powered...)

A this is how it is now

Another, this is how it all started.

It was actually 250rw (KW) not HP I think thats about 350+rwhp though. To answer your question....The car hasn't run in this state yet and may never be run like it. Its a s13 Silvia with fully stripped interior....see pic below. The car will be for sale very soon as he, like me is buying a 4WD.

OK just to make life a lil harder and more expensive.... about 50% of the time if the leak has been there for a while there is a very good chance that the surfaces of the turbo and the manifold are slightly warped, this means that even with a new gasket, bolts and nuts you will still have the leak. This is exactly what happened to me so I know from experience. The only thing to do is remove the manifold and the turbo and take them to a turbo specialist to have both surfaces machined. While this in its self doesn't cost much there is about a 90% chance that you will snap at least one or more manifold bolts when removing them, you will then need to pay some one to remove the bit thats left and this cost a fair bit. On mine I snapped 4 of the bolts, I got one out with an extractor kit but the others I screwed up and had to pay for some one to do it. This is the very worse case senario but as I said if the leak has been there a while it could be a problem.

OK.....NEVER powder coat you fmic / radiator. And for that matter you really shouldn't paint them either. Painting is mainly done for asthetic reasons and not for any beneficial reason. Powder coating adds a thick layer to the object and would block off all the runners in the fmic or radiator. Basically its a tuff alternative for decorativley painted objects that require a longer lasting finish.

How do you mean mate

And Comp side

Sorry folks I didn't mean to cause a stir by not supplying the specs. So here you go, I trust this is sufficient for you Merli. COMPRESSOR SIDE: Cover - To4B with 3" Inlet 0.6 AR Wheel - To4B v1 / v2 CENTER: RX7 Hitachi TURBINE SIDE: Housing - Safari FORD pickup 0.64 AR (T3) Wheel - RX7 HITACHI with Cropped fins Gate - Internal 4mm oversized We came up with the specs and components for this several years ago and since then JMS have used a similar design GCG also use a very close design but our Turbine housing is much bigger. Here is a pick of the stock RB20det turbo next to ours.

Sure, the guys name is Tim and he works for Cramer Dyno & Performance in Toowoomba. The business started out as a Diesel workshop but now most of their business is performance orientated. They supply and install MOTEC, Unichip and so on but the main thing with them is that they are eager to learn and don't charge for time spent "Figuring it out" as they see it as a learning time for them selves. For those readers of ZOOM you may remember the Yellow 240Z from the cover some time back well that guy lives in Sydney and he had Tim do all the tuning. Their workshop is immaculate and all the staff are well trained. Their contact details are PH 07 46 989350 if you contact them tell them you spoke to Cam on the Skylines Australia Forum and they will look after you