BOOSTMEISTER

I will tell you if it is possible after September 21st at Jamboree isn't that right Meggala:D

Some of you know about this but heaps probably don't. On my site in the RECORDS section I have a area for drag times for you guys. If anyone is interested in having their detail on line then email me all the details that I need (see the page for an example) I would really appreciate this as it will add to my site.

For the drags of course:D

Mystery solved:D

You know whats really funny is that Greedy don't make oil catch cans??? I know the ones you guys have, I have seen them on the net, JMS, ADVAN, EvolutionR etc. But on the TRUST Japan site there is no mention and no one in Japan knows about them. Weird.

Always talk to someone in person when it comes to this stuff. I phoned S/M and got a quote for my car with mods and took out the policy on the spot without calling anywhere else. Then about a month later I got the bill and it was about $600 more so I phoned them back told them the time and date of the quote and they changed it back. They quoted me $810 fully comp. Rating 2 for a 23year old. Apparently an hour after they quoted me they changed their policy for Grey Imports and put all the premiums UP so I was very lucky. I am now on Rating 1 and pay $750/year so it pays to talk to people and write everything down, name time date, everything.

I have never had a problem with my clutch on the road but on the strip it is another story. One good launch and thats it, pull second and slip, third, slip etc. Anyway I decided to change it before Jamboree on the 21st to something a little stronger from Direct Clutch Services (DCS) in Brisbane. When we pulled it out, "DAM how could you possibly drive with that" was the comment from the workshop. There was NO actuall clutch MEAT so to speak and all the bolts had been worn through, the pressure plate was blue and purple from excessive metal to metal heat and the flywheel was less than impressive. DCS are building me a nice single plate with a few ton of clamping pressure.....my instructions were simple. I need to be able to do second gear burnouts:D Not a problem he said, not a problem. By the way the clutch wasn't standard but I'm not sure what brand it was.

WHO.... C-mon tell me.....please..... Oh you mean my time....good for you, better hurry though as Jamboree is on the 21st and I hope to knock a good second off my time:D

Sorry I am not familiar with your methods of releaving frustration. But I do know what you mean by saying you have lots of power, just hope the guy in the lane next to you doesn't beat you with less power after you tell him how powrful your car is:D

Easy...one is setup better....has better mid-range or full range power. Perhaps one has a better matched turbo. My friends S13 with Rb20det and very large turbo and more power than mine is still slower than me cause it has too much lag and its power isn't useable. Sure, if his is perfectly setup then you have no hope but as less powr is cheaper to build then why not give it a go first.

Here is a plan.... Why do you want 350rwkw, yeh I know you want more power than that other guy but in my mind I would rather have a car with less power that was faster????? There is nothing worse than beign beaten by something with less power. Take for example my mate in his 180sx... 180@190rwhp = 13.2sec 1/4 R32 @282rwhp = 13.7sec 1/4 I couldn't believe it when he beat me, I have spent heaps more, have more power and yet he beat me.....I don't car cause he's a good friend and I helped him build his car but yousee what I mean. Why not build a car with say 250rwkw (Easy) which will drive better and still be faster than the other one. Just my 2c worth

This is a simple way to increase the size of your rims. This technique can be used on side shots and angled shots. 1. Start with the pic of the car. 2. Choose the round selection tool from the pallet 3. Ctrl + R to apply the ruler. 4. With the round selection tool active click and hold pointer in top left corner. 5. Now drag down to have the horizontal line just above the rim and the verticle line just to the left/right of the rim and let go of button but don't move the mouse. 6. Re-click and drag round selection around wheel. If you use SHIFT while dragging it will keep its proportions (only good if wheel is directly side on). **You should now have selected the rim.** a. Ensure you are on the picture layer with the rim. 7. Ctrl + C 8. Ctrl + N then ENTER 9. Ctrl + P ** You now have a new file with a seperate layer with the rim on it.** Then move up to: 10. IMAGE 11. Image size 12. Make sure both boxes are ticked at the bottom. 13. Make a guess at the original rim size in this case it was a 16" rim so on a calculator divide the number in the top box by 16 then multiply the answer by 18 to get the new pixel size for a 18" rim. 14. Click OK 15. Ctrl + A 16. Ctrl + C 17. Click back on the main project and you will see that the round selection is still there. 18. Ctrl + V This should paste the modified rim onto the selection area so you don't have to try to line it up.... To make it look totally real you will need to erase the middle of the new rim to reveal the old stud pattern or else the nuts could look out of place.

Ok, while there may be several ways to lower your car on PS here is the way I use. It is fast simple and works a treat. 1. Start with a photo of your. 2. Using the selection tool (Either straight line of freehand) start out side the picture and draw in and around the area in red then out the other side. go straigh up, across and down to the start again then release the button. You have now selected the area whithin the red lines. 3. Ctrl + C (Copy) 4. Ctrl + V (Paste) 5. Ctrl + Directional arrows to move the new layer to the desired position. Presto.... You can then tidy it up with a layer mask and air brush or a erasor at low pressure to blend the new layer at the front and rear of the car so you can't see the cut line. Also note that at the top of the pic there will be a duplicaiton so crop the pic so you can't see it.

I invite anyone who has a way to do something in PS to post their techniques here. I am working on a description to lower a car so if someone else can do something else please feel free.

Yeh I agree PS7 is awesome. I just bought it after using PS4 since buying it brand new (dam I was out of date). I will start a thread about techniques shortly so Ryan, me and others can post some instruction. I will offer to show you how to do lowering first up.

It seems funny that you cannot just buy an electronic device to disable the HICAS....perhaps it really isn't that safe to ONLY electronically disable it? I have felt a HICAS "Twitch" and at highway speed or more I wouldn't want that to happen. This is why all the HICAS lock kits by TOMEI, CUSCO etc are both mechanical and electrical. Chris32....lets say that the brass rings are 3mm thick then all you have to do is wind the tierod end IN 3mm to compensate for the spacer. Shouldn't be that hard.

Had a fiddle with some pics from the net?

Just a little tip for you all, most of you probably do this anyway. Don't rotate them front to rear. The fronts will last forever even if you drive hard like me. That way you only have to fork out for 2 tyres at a time. Unless you actually put money aside for tyres every week then finding $1000 is easier than $2000. My friend has had the same fronts for 3 years and he drives super hard.

CAS should be left right in the middle unless you want to advance or retard the timing like me with my crazy drag fuel hehehe or a mechanic changes it to tune the car etc.

OK sorry, I should have asked what it was that you were trying to do. So, What are you tryign to do? I assumed you were changing the timing belt.

Don't want to offend you but I may be able to offer $300 tops....I normally buy these new from Japan fairly cheap so I can't offer more.

I have dfinally had enough of the TEIN suspension and have replaced them with stock items. I did this mainly due to the fact that I am dragging the car a lot and need softer suspension. Anyway I still want it to handle so am looking for new sway bars for front and rear to stiffen up the body roll around corners. Has anyone else changed their sway bars on their R32? If so where did you get them and how much of a difference did it make. Your help with this is appreciated.

line up the holes on the cam gears with the lines on the backing plate to set the cams then line up the crank by aligning the crank pulley with its reletave marks....you will see them when you get that far into it. You will need a pulley puller to do it though. also when the crank is right then the front piston is a TDC. Also a genuine belt also has the lines on the belt to show you where everything should be.

$500 for a set of 4.......Been a while since I paid that sort of money. Try $540+ EACH For mine....dam good though.

Answer for MRE If it is like it has been in the past....You will have the morning to see how the car goes and work out a time. Then when the racing starts you will have to nominate your dial in. Then its just a matter beating the other person to the line without going over your dial in. Don't set the dial in too low or your head start will be slashed against cars that are faster and you will not beat them. Basically this is about consistancy not outright best time.