BOOSTMEISTER

YES its on again. I will be placing another order for goods from Japan. Date of order: 12 July Date funds are to be IN my account: 11 July Following are the details. Read carefully. 1. All you have to do is email me with the item you wish to order. I can get practically anything you want so just ask me. At this stage I will not be ordering large items like exhausts and bodykits as the shipping is yet to be worked out so that I can quote correctly. 2. Once you have emailed me I will send you a quote. The price I give you is final and not negotiable, I am not in this to make money but I do have to cover all my cost and the fact that if the yen changes I have to bear the difference. The price you receive will include shipping to your door. 3. If you are happy with the quote and you wish to participate with the buy then just email me with notice that you have deposited the necessary funds into my account. I must have all funds IN my account by the 11th of July, there for you may need to deposit the money a couple of days prior to this date to ensure I get it on time. I also require at this point your shipping address. 4. Once I receive the funds I will notify you of that and place the order on the 12th July. After that I will keep you informed as to the progress of the order only when I hear from the supplier. 5. Upon me receiving the goods I will post to you as soon as possible by normal mail. WHY BUY WITH ME: The reason why I suggest you be part of this buy is to help reduce the cost of the shipping for your goods. Also, because I have placed many orders I believe that I get better feedback from the various companies that I use. Please don't reply to this message. I will only respond to private email at cam@d-u-e-l.com

Which bit did you have to replace?

I can't actually pull the match stick bit out of the other plastic bit but it does slide back and forth.?

OK, what I can do is when I remove the speedo console I can also remove the plastic bit inside the end of the sppedo cable. There is a small square plastic bit (like a match stick) and another plastic bit the this fits inside and a spring.....Should all of this be able to come out? If not, what do I need to fix it and where did you get yours from. Thanks Cam

Good stuff guys, I love drag racing it rocks, I am actually going to get really involved in it. You have highlighted the main problem with all our cars....the suspension setup. Its all good on the track/street, but on the strip it is way too hard. Get yourselves some stock stuff and go hard. Nice run Dave, same as my car.

OH, you drain the water first...... The above is for the un-experienced, I managed to change my timing belt without draining the water..:lol: Not recommended tho.

Well its probably because I took it off the dial once too often but my speedo is not working. I have pulled the pickup out of the gearbox and replaced it but still no go. I have removed the dash and when I drive the little plastic thing that goes into the back of the dash still spins and also spins under load (me pushing my finger onto it) I have no idea what is wrong with it can anyone shed some light on this problem. Has anyone else had the same problem? BACKGROUND "When I was at the drags the other night I did a burnout and got a lot of axel tramp, it was very violent and shook the entire car. After that the speedo didn't work and my HICAS light came on and I lost my power steering."

Not sure if it fits a 32 or not. Sorry no pic but it is in fairly good condition....its been on a car for a while so you know just normal condition. I will polish the rear can nice for you if you buy it.

Hi Dude, I organised a dyno day a short while back and it went pretty well. Here are the categories I used. 4 cyl upto 2l 4 cyl 2l and up 6 cyl 2l 6 cyl 2l and up Rotory Eight I imagine you will get more cars than I did because of your location (I am in Toowoomba) so more categories may be needed. Please don't take this as critisism but there are a couple of things wrong with your categories. 1. "STOCK" - How can you be sure the car IS stock, some cars will have mods that can't be seen. 2. "Light Mods" - What is considered Light mods? You will have many problems with people who say that sos and so hs more mods and so and so has less mods, you don't need the hassle of people arguing about who should be in what category. 3. "Heavy Mods" - Again, how can you determine who has what, some people will say I have x x x x mods then when they turn up they have more or less than they said so it will screw up your planning... Basically as the organiser you don't need the hassle on the day as you will have heaps to do as it is. The categories I would suggest for your even would be. 4 cyl upto 2l Turbo (Starlets. CA Silvia's etc) 4 cyl 2l and up Turbo (SR Silvia's, TX3's etc) 4 cyl 2l and up N/A 6 cyl 2l Turbo (RB20 Skylines) 6 cyl above 2l Turbo (GTR, Supra etc) 6 cyl above 2l N/A Rotary Turbo Rotary N/A Eight Automatic (You need a different category for Auto's as they can't be dyno'd in the same gear as the others) Sounds good and I can't wait. Will you be using shoot out software? We used this to keep in line with Summernats etc so people know that they have been dynoed all with the same settings per category. Just trying to help, if you want to know more about our day just ask.

As above.... 16 x 7 or 16 x 7.5 with gtst offset Rays, Volks, Advans etc May swap/trade for my 18's with tyres

I looked there (the one under the dash next to the steering column) but there isn't one. I will probably pull the plug in the end but I would rather do it properly, I have this nasty habit of driving over 240kn/h so I can't afford for the rear wheels to do anything I am not expecting:(

As above in fairly good condition. Not straight bolt on as the flange at cat has been cut so you need to take it to a exhaust shop to have it fitted. $300ono + Freight Taking offers til 15 July then it sells, who ever offers the most and I am happy with.

Can someone tell me where the HICAS fuse is on the R32 gtst ? I have looked everywhere. Also, I pulled the dash out and had a look at the speedo cable thingy, is the small plastic bit that goes into the back of the dash suppose to come out? I have replaced the speedo pick up at the gearbox but that didn't help.

OK, I entered the diagnostic mode and this is what happens I get 4 brief flashes then 1 longer flash then it stays on for a few seconds before repeating.....What wrong?

Sorry can't remember and my time slip is at home somewhere

The return runs at the back of the core down near the bottom

It hasn't burst yet but I imagine it will as he intends to run more than 1 bar. In the end I ran the piping back the front... turbo to (OUT) (IN) to throttle body This way the cooled air has less distance to travel. Your design looks good, the hard part is going froma square end tank to a round pipe/outlet, this is where a lot of turbulance is created. the other pic on my site of my friends intercooler that I installed has on .7psi (from turbo to throttle body)pressure drop even with the return like it is.

The reason Meggala's is so much better than the one I installed is that the outlet is on the bottom not on the side, this allows the air to exit much better. A basic point to remember is that if air has to turn itself to go somewhere then you WILL loose pressure and air speed.

I don't know where he got it and I will not find out because it was crap....and I don't recommend you buy crap, as it turned out it was only $150 less than one from ARE in Brisbane but the end result was well under half of ARE's quality. To realise why it was so bad you have to understand that air must be able to travel as smoothly as possible. Here is a diagram of the cooler. Problem 1. On the inlet the actual inlet pipe infact protruded INTO the end tank about 20mm which basically stops the air from moving up to the top of the core Problem 2. The outlet has the same problem as the inlet however on the outlet it is even worse because the pipe comes through a big square shaped piece of alloy tank making it almost impossible for the air to smoothly flow out of the core. Problem 3. It isn't welded on the inside. Continual pressure of 15psi can actually burst the end tank open. Problem 4. The inlet and outlets are 2.5" (as requested) on the outside diameter of the pipe but the inside diameter is closer to 2" Problem 5. When he took it back to the guy to have the intruding pipes machined back the guy repositioned the inlet at a 30o angle DOWN so that when the piping was done the return pipe either had to run down at an angle or back under the car as it would actuall hit the inlet pipe. Problem 6. the welds were average and the way the outlet was welded on makes me believe that it may infact leak pressure as the weld didn't go all the way round. The only redeeming feature of the cooler is that it is a K&J core which is very good. This design is quite good if it is built correctly by someone that knows what they are doing and has access to a flow bench to test the design. If you want to see the correct way to make a return type intercooler have a look at this other page of my site about half way down

D-Masta Yes TRIAL are a huge tuning shop in Japan, check out their site at TRIAL They do some very cool stuff, try emailing them with a pic of the car and ask if they remember doing work on it, I think they have an english speaking rep.

3 spoke Zelda rims (TRIAL) look sweet, any mods to the engine suspension etc?

If thats your new car... SWEET very nice car, sorry can't help with your probs, I too have a HICAS problem.

One of the things I have been wondering about is with semi slicks (AZENIS) etc.....Is there a used by date so to speak, I mean if I use them once a month is this OK or should I use them more regualy (spelling). I know that tyres go hard after a while without use so I am just wondering?? Does anyone know?

Good observations Joel 1st. Mass loss of traction, backed off then on the power 2nd. Grip with clutch slip. 3rd. clutch slip (hear the revs) then power and that was it for the V8 ute. He had no pipes on and I could hear it and he was going hard. Nearly 170km/h over the 1/4 means that the top end isn't too shabby I have falken ze326 235/40/18 all round One of the killers on all my runs was the clutch

This may seem obvious to most people but for some it is obviously not something they have any idea about. If someone is organising an event....Dyno day, Cruise, Skid pan, Track day etc. They need to know numbers to ensure it is viable, there is no short fall in funds and that suitable numbers are catered for. Therefore If someone asks for interest DON'T say "YES" I'll be there if you probably can't go or if you are unsure. I have organised many events and this problem keeps coming up. You give people heaps of notice and yet they still can't organise themselves. This is not on and the practice should stop NOW. So, from now on if there is an event being organised please don't put your hand up without thinking and if you do and later find out you can't make it then e-mail the organiser as soon as you know you can't make it. Remember, you won't be hated for not going only if you don't tell anyone or give false impressions. I know some of you guys are young and you don't like to commit yourselves but this totally screws things up.