kitto

Yeah, confirmed that now. Which translates into HB545X.564 Hawk part number. I have emailed hawk to see if the do this part number in the HT10 compound i'm after. HB545S.564. I believe the answer will be no.

Winmax W7? For the standard caliper, the DTC60s are a bit cheaper than the Winmax pads.

Hi all, I am looking to buy a set of Hawk pads for my R34 GTR Brembo calipers for moderate track use. I am going to stick with Hawk as I have used them with Sumitomo calipers and loved them for track use (stick with what you know). Previously I had used the HT10 pad for moderate track use with good results and was looking to go down the same path, however it appears HAWK do not manufacture the HT10 for that caliper anymore or never did. From what I can see there are two part numbers that will fit the Brembo caliper, although neither specifically state they fit the GTR Brembo caliper on the Hawk website. HB545 (the part number listed for 350Z Brembos - my assumption is that the GTR and 350Z use the exact same pad. HB181 - Pad is the same shape as the HB545 with slightly different dimensions. Suited to 90's BMW but there is information floating around that they suit the GTR Brembo caliper as well. However it looks like Hawk no longer manufacture the correct thickness pad that would have fitted the GTR Brembo. So, who has recently bought Hawk pads for the GTR Brembo calipers? What Part number did you order and can confirm they fit? What compound did you buy - I don't think the HT10 is available as I said above, so I think the DTC-60 would be the next obvious choice. Thanks.

Been a hot minute since I've used this forum.. I am in the process of getting my track vehicle usable again and buying front brakes is on the agenda and i'm weighing up the options. I had set on the EVO front upgrade to buy as it appeared to be the best bang for buck, however after doing some sums one can purchase an Alcon kit for not much more. EVO kit costs come to around $3,000 - $3,500 once you buy calipers, rebuild them, dogbones, and new 5000 series rotors if one were to do it properly. For around $4,000 depending on the caliper series, an Alcon 355 x 32mm 6 piston caliper kit can be bought. The biggest advantage going down the Alcon path is considerable weight saving and good aftermarket support. Who is using either setup and has any feedback to provide? Vehicle for reference: R31 live axle, RB25, S14 front end, R32 twin pots on the rear, likely manual braking over boost assist. Cheers,

Yep. Constant 12V supply. PWM controlled ground via the ECU.

Link are dropping that display unit as it didnt do very well at all. They have now teamed up with an Australian dash company. Similar dash to a racepak etc.

Link

RB20/25/30's crank bolt is torqued to 142 - 152Nm. Most torque wrenches will do that, so there is no excuse for not torquing the crank bolt on those engines. RB26, different story, 446 - 466Nm to torque that sucker. Only proper way to do it would be to have it in the car (Engine stand will move far too much applying that torque), sump off, nice stopper between the crank wall and the crank and use a 1" torque wrench capable of that torque. Might have to pay someone like a truck tyre shop to borrow a wrench that big for a day.

I think Nitto better pull their finger out and get that product on the market otherwise this guy is going to be laying in a bed full of money if his product works and he decides to sell it.

Just buy a Nistune board from Nistune and pay the freight. Done? http://www.nistune.com/

Buy a Link Plug in. There is no patch loom to convert the Extreme wire in to the factory harness.

+2 for Link

School Holidays..

M6 x 1.00

I would never ever trust billet gears. After researching and buying a set of them (reimax) and seeing how much rediculous amount of clearance there was to the crank collar I onsold them and bought a Nitto collar and pump. The spool gears are utter shit with poor design flaws.

Oh. Your putting this into a 31 yeah? If you want a loom thats almost plug and play for a 31 with all the un necessary stuff removed, I have one.

I have an excellent condition AFM. Clean, no cracks. $90 including postage. PM me if your interested. Daniel.

PM sent

Gates Timing Belt SOLD NEO Harmonic Balancer SOLD HID Kit SOLD

Yeah I know about it. But explaining it to some people on the other hand can be a challenge. Most people just think VCT is shit and decide they dont need it.

To add: If its a non VCT RB25DE, you can simply get away with using a Nistuned RB20 ECU If it has VCT youll need the Z32 ECU.

Yes but you still need a Nistune capable ECU. R33 ECUs do not accept Nistune and therefore cannot be remapped. You need a Z32 ECU modified correctly to suit the R33 RB25 with Nistune so it can be remapped.

It requires a Nistune ecu and a touch up tune on the dyno as a minimum. You also need DET injectors if you don't already.

Are we talking about the wire in or the plug in?

Yes true. Built in Knock boards on the ViPec being one of them. Along with a few other small features. But they are a very similar platform. Software is almost identical with few small differences between the two. The ViPec does however support Peak and Hold Injector drivers. But i really don't think that is such a big issue nowadays. There are that many different high impedance injectors on the market at a reasonable cost, there is no real reason that you must require a Peak and Hold Injector capable ECU. The Link is cheaper. And now with the release of the G4+ the differences are closing up. The G4+ now has built in digital knock control. I'm sure if you scurried the Link forum you'd find a thread with all the differences between them.