kitto

Stop posting useless, un-informative posts with zero factual information. People do not appreciate it and you get disliked very very quickly.

Yeah once i had bought the Greedy header tank i wasn't super impressed with it. So basically your idea of a head tank is; Header tank is the main fill point for the cooling system - Is this entirely necessary? Bottom of header tank to the pump inlet of the engine, Bleed points from the top of the radiator and two? from the highest point on the head to the top of the header tank. Header tank houses radiator cap with overflow connecting here. Are you able to just fill the radiator as per normal, once that is full, start filling from the header tank? Ducting i will be able to sort out fairly easy. Shouldn't be too hard. I had intended to fit the oil cooler in front of the intercooler. I changed my mind a while ago and think i'll be mounting it behind the RHS of the front bar. As much as i'd like to get rid of the fan, i do like the idea of keeping one. It may adverse the amount of air that is able to travel into the radiator at high speed. But at low speed / pits etc i think i'll greatly benefit from having one there. Of course an under tray is not as important as the frontal ducting. But it does help guide the air better out of the engine bay correct? Yeah, unfortunately no one makes electric heated windscreens or electric stick on kits for an R31 front wind screen.

Sorry for the late reply. I honestly havn't worked it out if i need it or not. Do you know the precise reason for it? I know it controls the valve for the purge canister. But why did the NEO have this ECU controlled solenoid valve and all other RB's did not? Bump btw.

Interesting thread. Some good posts. What is the ideal way to set up a normal RB cooling system if money (within reason) isn't too much of an issue. This is for dedicated hard track use. By normal setup i mean, Radiator in the factory position, using a 76 degree thermostat, oil cooler, intercooler in front of the radiator etc. Reason i'm asking is this is another task for me to do in the future when my car goes back together. I'd like to set it up properly the first time. My current plans are; - PWR radiator (42 or 55mm available from memory) - Swirl Pot - Still unsure about the best way to set this up with the optimal bleeding points and so on. I have bought a GReddy unit. - Full ducting for the intercooler / radiator and the oil cooler - I am trying very hard to try and keep the clutch fan and shroud set up, but this may not be possible due to space. A quality thermo fan and duct set up may have to be fitted - I plan to delete the factory heater core as well - just trying to work out how to demist the windows if i delete it. - Splash shield under the engine to draw the air past the engine and effectively out of the engine bay What else can be looked at and done to set this up correctly?

Really? I was always under the impression they did. Running oil squirters is a big advantage to not using them. They help to cool the pistons and lubricate the bores. Pulling them out is a step back wards. Yes correct, people who turbo RB30E's do not have oil squirters but if they did the user or engine builder wouldnt go removing them.

Correct unless its a VLT A8 block.

Sounds like typical cracked ring land. Compression and leak down tests will show.

Make sure ALL vital signals such as all analogue and important digital signals are all shielded from the sensor all the way back to the ECU. Ground one end of the shield at the ECU end. Shielded sensors will be; CAS TPS MAP Sensor Intake Air Temp Coolant Temp Oil Temp Oil Pressure Knock Sensors Another bit of advice is to make up a map and a list of everything to be wired to the ECU, how many wires and which pins are used for each sensor and so on. Plan it before you attack it.

R31's have a fusible link and relay box behind the RH headlight. You may have fried a fusible link, maybe. But i doubt it. The other fuse box is inside, RH side of the steering column. This is more than just a fuse box though. This is called the HEC or Hybrid Electronic Control unit. Its also considered to be the SMJ or Super Multiple Junction. Only R31's had them and they are not the most awesome of things. But they dont usually fail either. This unit has a few purposes; its a place for all the fuses and power relays (can't see the relays without removing the unit), it is the major intersection for everything electrical in the car, and it also houses the electronic control module that controls; dash lights, tail lights, wiper control, interior light, trip computer etc. I dare say you have fried this unit. If you've still got brake lights and head lights but not much else then its a good indication that its cooked. You can replace just the electronic module or the entire HEC. Should only take half an hour to replace the entire HEC. Grab one from pick a part.

Well that sucks the wang... Time to complain to seller of it?

NEO TCS throttle body sold. Boxing day bump.

Why the new clutch fan when your rad is going in the boot?

What engine? Did you use zinc assembly lube when putting them in? Did you run the cams in?

Yeah your not meant to balance ROSS balancers. They are balanced from factory. If you replace it with an OEM balancer, what are you going to be about the lacking trigger disc on the OEM balancer?

Bump

Quick dyno tune is cheaper than a new engine..

R34 CAS Sold. Everything else is still available.

Hmmm, noise isn't what you want. Valve train should sound like a ' smooth sewing machine' at idle / low revs.

Because imagination...

Bump

Pre and post filters ARE required. There is a filter sock before the intank pump and then there is a pressure filter after the fuel pump before the fuel rail.

That turbo is a factory R32 RB20 turbo. Worth about $80 in working condition to someone who actually wants it.

This. You could buy an RB20 ECU, have Nistune installed into your ECU with a base image. Drive to tuner. Have it tuned. Or You could buy an RB20 ECU with Nistune already installed. Drive to tuner, he'll plug in the ECU and start tuning.

Upload some good photos man, and some pictures of the receipts if you have them. I'm sure that will help with the sale. Its well priced.

Came cap baffles. They are there to help prevent oil entering the cam cover baffles.