kitto

Still doesn't effectively demist the window. I'd really like one of those demister kits rally cars and so on use for front windows, but no one seems to do them at a reasonably price..

Yep, RB26 balancer will not work with an R34 GTT power steering pump, Wrong offsets. In an R34, HICAS has nothing to do with the power steering pump as it is electric. Deleting it makes no difference to the power steering pump. You have two options. 1. Find and buy R33 or R34 RB26 power steering pump and bracket (both have electric HICAS and will bolt straight on). 2. Remove RB26 ROSS balancer, sell, buy RB25 NEO (R34) ROSS or OEM balancer and go from there.

Errr, doesn't matter if its AC or DC. Cable is cablem, it has two insulation ratings for voltage and a current carrying capacity. AWG is still used widely in the automotive industry but in the electrical industry its all mm2 which is so much easier. As we work to an Australian standard, we know what size X cable is rated to current wise and we choose a cable accordingly. De rating factors come in to play here as well. I get cable for pretty much free so i'll be using mm2 cable. Cheap, yes it sure is a lot cheaper than automotive cable. Yes, a luxury vehicle would most likely have a higher output alternator. I would assume the R34 GTR would have one of the highest output alternators that will bolt onto an RB. I wasn't cussing you. Cheers dude, i think most later model skylines will be around that figure as well.

That post was a little difficult to read. Bit all over the place lol. Yes i'm an Electrician, enough said. I know what i'm talking about and what needs to be done. Like i said, i'm not a domestic electrician who doesn't know the difference between a relay and diode. Yes i worked out that for most of the time the 70A alternator will shit it in with no issues what so ever. My simple question was to ask what the output of the R34 Alternator was, 80A was my thought, i also wanted to know if there were any larger off the shelf alternators around that came off of other RB engines. The battery's primary job is to crank the engine, it also does help to supply power to the vehicles electrical system under heavy demand. The alternator has two main jobs - Charge the battery at a regulated 13.8 - 14.4V and supply power to run all the vehicles electrical systems. Why do you think alternators have such large output current these days? Because of the large demand from all the cars electrical systems. No you do not want to run the alternator @ 100% duty cycle or close to it for long periods of time. And most people wont. Yes, the higher the voltage the lower the current. Ohms law. Current is inversely proportional to voltage. As your voltage starts to drop, your current starts climbing and vice versa. The higher the operating voltage of any particular electrical system in the world > the lower the current draw from that system. Ps, we're in Australia, here we use mm2 for cable sizing. not AWG.

Who did your dash flocking? Looks good, i'll have to get mine done over the next few months...

I'm wrong in what regard? To be honest i dont know what amps are out there and i dont really care nor bothered to look into it. I would like to see clamp meter readings of said current draw. I dont see the point in having such huge sound systems drawing that much current. Your ears can't handle it anyway haha. CCA is a bit of a useless measurement yes, but it does give a guideline of what your battery is rated at. Amp hour is what we use. I'm only using a pissy little 40Ah battery, The only thing i want the battery to do is crank the engine and act as a buffer on idle. Alternator should always do the rest. If your system is what you say it is, it sounds like you are relying on the batteries (plural?) alone. For a system that requires that much current you would usually put 2x high output alternators on to supply the current. Yes i know about ohms law, current, voltage drop etc etc. I am an electrician... No not your average domestic one at that. In what part am i wrong? I didn't mention anything about fuses. A fuse is a protective device, it is to open the circuit under fault conditions to protect the cabling and the supply unit. Anyway, this is completely off topic, a sound system is not what i'm trying to do here.

What about Emissions test? Do you do the tests and tune the engine for the test to get it passed for emissions? I'm assuming so as you put in the 100 cell cat?

Yes officer its stock. But no, really how do you NSW guys do serious mods to your cars? As your have a seriously gay inspection system over there.

Errr 600A? I dont think so, Both the battery and alternator cannot supply 600A. 500CCA (Cold Cranking Amps for a few seconds yes). Continuous draw, no. In reality your probably pulling around 150-200A continuous with spikes to X amount. An Alternator is designed to drive the entire electrical load, once the engine is running, the battery is simply there as a buffer. Obviously with high loads switched on at idle the alternator isn't producing enough current to run all the load, so it is shared with the battery. Yes correct it will be rare that i drive with everything on at once. R31 wiring is a lot better than many many cars out there. Doesn't matter though as i'm doing a full re wire.

Not when you have 4x 100W bulbs on with high beam haha. 29A there... Demister would be around 10A, Lift pump, 4 or 5A, main pump is about 17A at full load, Thermo fan (if i fit one) will be around 14A (estimate) when it comes on. Heater fan when it get used draws 10A - I would delete the heater if i could find a really effective way of demisting the windows but proving hard. In retrospect, for the most part, a 70 or 80A alternator will do it easily. Like i said, it will only be night time that the electrical system will be under large load.

Brake master cylinder stopper. Car looks good dude. One question, how in the feck do you get that passed through road worthy every year?

Currently 0V lol. Car isn't even built yet. Just to the point of putting an alternator on. I do have a brand new 70A alternator sitting there, but after a quick calc, it seems a little low. it will really only become a major issue when the head lights are on, rear demister is on etc. With it being a track car this won't be very often. But if there is a larger output alternator out there, i'd like to investigate that path.

Yes, true. If it was re-wound to Delta i would have expected a much higher current output as well. Bigger battery and or capacitor are not an option. No amplifiers or sound system here. Just a fair amount of electrical demand that i want the alternator to be able to cope with easily.

Lol, they are in Adelaide as well. I'm not really sure if they are genuine or not, it says they upgrade the 85A Bosch unit to pump out 106A max. If they do this by changing the wiring configuration to Delta from Star i'm not interested. Changing to Delta allows you to produce more current, but the alternator won't actually start producing charge until engine RPM is around the 1,200RPM mark, so no charging at idle.

Hello all; I would just like to know what the rated current output of an R34 GTT Alternator is. My guess is it will be around the 80/90A range. But i'd like a definite answer. I have searched high and low on here along with google and no answer is yet found. Also, does anyone know what the largest capacity RB alternator is rated to and off of what vehicle? R31 RB30 is 70A - Which is a tad low for me. Cheers.

Yeah, gotta agree. Air temp and humidity must be accounted for. If not, false high readings will occurr. On a dynapak the difference can be quite a lot, and therefore you will be flammed for having false readings.

Double post

What timing belt does it have on it?

RS components. $57.50 + GST here. Not sure if you have RS in NZ?

Dry sump it you pussy

I'd also like some info on this. I've got a pretty good idea on how it works but more info is better. I want to set something like this up on my NEO.

Yeah, it'll be the cam seal, they come in the 100,000km service kit. You got the kid with new tensioner and idler yeah? Yes, purchase this kit, the cam covers are sealed using rubber seals not gaskets, and the two little things are called half moons and go at the back of the head on each side. You'll need liquid gasket maker, yes. It's a good idea, but the stud is a pain in the arse to change and very easy to snap if you don't know what your doing. Hopefully your lower timing gear comes off easy as well when your mechanic does the service to access to oil seal on the pump. Can't hurt to do them if they are old...

Have you got yourself a full wiring diagram to follow? If you do, start at one point and work through the entire wiring system. A/C Clutch should get a 12V+ current to the wire for the clutch and grounds through the body of the compressor. Shouldn't be a 0VDC current.

Thats correct, forgot about the HICAS, that plays a part as well.

Low refrigerant?