kitto

This is not good! It MUST be on the drivers side as high up on the sump as possible. I think you'll find oil is working its way up this tube. You've got foam in your can? Is it vented to atmosphere?

Hmmm, thats not good. Sounds like you've set your oil control up pretty well and its still breathing. Personally i wouldn't be draining the catch can back to the sump. The oil that gets to the catch can is usually pretty nasty. I would vent the sump to the top of the catch can instead of to the cam covers. Your rear head drain is the 'breather' for the head. What side is the sump vent and catch can return on? The inlet side as high as possible? Overfilling your sump 10mm past the FULL line shouldn't make an issue. Its when you really over fill the sump does it pump oil out. Whats your piston to bore clearance? It really does sound like heavy blow by to me.

Something is really wrong if your throwing belts with the idler pulley kit...

Were you using a 25 balancer or a 30 balancer?

Your engine has high kays (For a forced induction import). You could throw another head gasket in it, then find that you spin a bearing or the engine starts to heavily breath 3 months down the track. Seriously i would just find a low km long engine from Nisswreck or something and throw it in. Do the ring around and see what you can find. S1 or S2 engine doesn't matter to you, as all you need is the long engine, then attach all your bolt on gear from your current engine. Replacing the water hoses while your at it along with a new water pump, timing belt and idlers would be smart. You could do a few other things at the same time if you like. Nisswreck Japanese import spares JDM Spares Adelaide Jap Dismantlers There is a wrecker here in Adelaide on Magill Road, Norwood that i wouldn't touch however for anything that is an engine, gearbox, trans or anything you have to put a deposit down for or cannot verify its condition 100% before handing cash over. I'm sure there will be 20 RB25's between the other wreckers. Speak to Nisswreck or JDM Spares, they would be my preference. For the love of god though, get a compression test and preferably leak down test if possible before buying. And actually watch the test being done.

Do you mean the pulley's are not at the correct offset for the pump? Or the V grooves have incorrect angles, or are to shallow or deep? More info please.

I bought a pair of -10 for RB25 rocker covers.... Now that i'm going RB26 rocker covers i'll need a set of these

Put a price up as per forum Rules. To give you an idea. You can get these for $900 brand new to your door.

How do you mean?

RB26 CP Forged Pistons SOLD

That car had a tailshaft loop that met IPRA requirements. He said it did sfa to stop the tsilshaft from coming into the cabin. The explosion obliterated the tailshaft loop. Not cool huh.

Fairly sure the plenum will bolt on to R34 runners but the R34 IAC valve block will not bolt onto the R33 Plazmaman plenum.

That was with 70% Load. I thought the exact same thing when i first looked at it. Then read the screen three times, and yes very low boost pressure. Its exactly the same when the Gen sets are unloaded as well.

Speak to Jo, Ben or Tony at All Clutch and Brake Services. 3 Pinn Street St Marys. 8277 8122 They are SUPER helpful. I bought a new throw out bearing for my twin plate a few months back. $25 from memory, in stock.

This is what happens to a single piece tailshaft at 8,300RPM. Its in an AE86 so the tailshaft isn't exactly all that long either. Guy had a tailshaft loop as well, it ripped it clean out, took half the gearbox out with it along with the shifter and the fuel lines. Punched 4x big holes in the floor. There is another guy here in SA that had a Cefiro. Freshly built car, new very expensive engine, clutch, gearbox etc etc. Tailshaft failed in 4th gear when he attempted his scando into turn one at Mallala. The shock was so severe to the car that it the car actually buckled, destroyed the gearbox and engine. Car was pretty much gone because of a failed tailshaft. I for one, will not be putting my single piece shaft back in.

I was looking at some Gensets i worked around. Detroit Diesel 8.7L Inline 6. 200HP @ 1500RPM (Genset so locked to 1500RPM). Wasn't able to see the ID tags on the turbo because of the turbo beanie that was wrapped around it. But no wastegate, looked to be something similar sized to that of a GT30 with a huge exhaust housing - go figure its a diesel. Non water cooled core. I did see the compressor wheel on one when the engine was getting a service and it had quite a small compressor wheel. After going through all the engine parameters on the Genset control unit, i cam accross Boost pressure. Boost pressure was holding at a constant 0.1 - 0.2 Bar. Which is bugger all. I believe in this instance these engines are turbocharged purely to get more efficiency out of them. Another story, a friend of mine is currently working out which turbo to replace his current one on his 5L (3 Litre) Hilux engine. Currently has a TD04-13G. According to MTQ and Adelaide turbo services keeping that Turbo is ideal for that enigne. Bit of a story there but maybe some of it was useful

Holy Sheeet! Motor is le fecked!

Deposit taken on RB26.

Mine had very slight play with the inlet being snug. So long as they dont have excessive play, bind up or have lots of physical damage they should be ok to use. Why Nissan used different lifters for the exhaust on the NEO but no other RB is a mystery. But I'm sure there was a good engineering reason for it. Make sure your valve clearances are set well. 0.31mm +/- .04mm for inlet and 0.5mm +/- .04mm for exhaust from memory. Shim over bucket valve trains tend to flick out shims with incorrectly set clearances and/or aftermarket cams.

Just for your information. I rebuilt my NEO head just recently I pulled the lifters out (Engine had only done 39,000km) to find the lifters were very badly scratched. Instantly i thought they were damaged. This is not the case, the exhaust lifters are made out of Aluminium, they wear like that, it is quite normal for them to have 'excessive' scratching and my engine builder told me there was absolutely nothing wrong with them. Inlet lifters are steel and didn't have a mark on them. If this is why your wanting to replace the lifters, because they look badly scratched. They are in fact fine. If they are physically damaged in some other way and you need to find a set, your probably best of going New OEM as you'll have almost no luck finding a set. There is nothing available after market for the NEO either.

Yeah get rid of it. NPC or Exedy heavy duty. But if your going to pump out some power, go for the highest rated single plate clutch that retains drive ability. My Missus' Chaser has a twin plate OS Giken clutch in it. I hate the damn thing in traffic and she struggles at the best of times with it. I keep telling her to change it as it has now destroyed the diff bushes and is killing the diff.

Nasty. Is that on a Plazmaman plenum or factory plenum? Hanaldo, have you got any more pics of your plenum setup? I had a good look through your build thread. I'm curious to see what you did underneath the plenum, how you've got your water lines routed, vac lines etc. And too see how the IAC is mounted to the Plazmaman.

Good point. So where would you tap your bleeder in? While we are on the subject of coolant paths; throttle body and IACV - they both have coolant through them. As far as I've been able to work out, coolant passes through the throttle body to eliminate iceing and throttle sticking. Here in Aus it's obviously not needed. IACV - I believe coolant passes through this which has a wax valve inside. When the coolant is colt the valve is open, when it warms up, the valve closes dropping idle. Now seeing as the NEO does not have an AIr regulator valve for raiding the idle when starting, am I correct in thinking its a very smart idea in keeping coolant flowing through the IACV. I know it's a track car, but it would be nice to have the engine behave as best as possible.

Hmm not a bad idea. What sort of idle control does the Falcon use? What model Falcon are we talking here? Well seeing as i'm going to use a header tank, i theory i can delete the bleeders all together because the header tank becomes the bleeder correct?

RB20 and R33 RB25 ones will work. Only difference is the NEO is plastic, others are steel.