kitto

An idea on this as well. Make it mandatory that you have to put your state in. Like a drop down box. Then when searching in the classified area, you have next to the thread title in small red text the state, or State - Town. Also the ability to EDIT your posts at any time is so handy. Being able to update for sale threads makes it easier for people to understand what you have sold and what you still have.

From their facebook page. https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/575130_375235542513766_80282491_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/485110_340008556036465_1137789783_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/306044_340008606036460_1294723610_n.jpg Maybe they are not on the market yet. Their website hasn't got them listed. But its possible they are available just not online yet. Ring Andrew and ask.

Nitto now do an oil drain kit that doesn't foul the lines..

This correct. Hmm. Fuel cooler may be a good idea.

How have you got your surge tank plumbed? IE, from top to botton the surge tank is it; Return to tank > Return from fuel rail > Lift pump in > Main pump feed. OR Return from rail > Return to tank > Lift pump in > Main pump feed?

VCT is goooood!

Just had my RB25 NEO done by my engine builder. Hot Wash Block Balance crank, clutch Weight match pistons and rods Bore and hone Deck block Grub Screws Grub Screw crank Fit crank Collar Linish Crank Check all clearances Assemble short engine All that came to $1320 No Parts Included. All my head work was almost double that. Balancing your rotating assembly is a good idea! Not sure about who you'd go through in Perth

Set yourself a budget and work from there. Seriously.

New long motor, throw it in, done.

Nah f**k that

Fair call, it will occasionally see low RPM events/street driving. How do people effectively seal the elongated hole on the N1 pump?

Hey everyone, Well the time has come for me to choose which water pump to put on my freshly forged RB25 NEO. I know there are many threads of stock vs N1 water pumps but I'm asking for your opinion for my specific setup. I have an N1 and NEO pump to choose from. The NEO pump is not like a standard RB25 pump, the casting is different. It looks like Nissan tried to rectify an issue on the NEO with this pump. The car is a 95% dedicated track car for sprinting. Rev limit will be no higher than 7,500RPM. I'll be using an OEM R31 radiator, but of I'm having over heating issues I'll throw in a PWR rad. My understanding is the N1 is really designed for engines seeing very high RPM above 8,000 RPM regularly. Now my engine will spend a lot of time revving high, but not that high. The downsides of fitting an N1 pump is the elongated hole may leak and it may not pump enough water at low RPM. What do you guys think? I'll upload a pic comparing the two when I'm on my computer. Cheers.

Put the factor FPR back on, try a process of elimination.

Master should be 5/8" and the slave should be 3/4" for the R33. I'm not sure on R34 masters/slaves though.

It's been done before and it's not worth it. Spend the $1200 on an RB25 box.

Prices slightly negotiable.

Also consider Declan from Garage 7. Very very easy going guy. Will answer any questions you have. Once you get him started on the topic of tuning, have a good half an hour spare to talk to him. Declan uses a DynaPak in Pooraka and is very thorough with his tunes. He loves to see the results after a tune, more so than the customer some times i think haha.

Yes, Nistune it! Get a Profec B Spec 2 boost controller. They are a good little unit. The EBC will help bring on boost earlier and harder as well as trying to keep the target boost. Replace your clutch first/at the same time. Later on down the track, put some injectors, fuel pump and a high flow on it and pump out 250-270rwkW!

+1 They are awesome for your first car to help you think your cool.

Ok so i just compared an OEM NEO bskancer with an OEM R32 RB20DET balancer. The offset of the power steering pulley is identical. Both being 4PK. The NEO ever so slightly under drives the P/S pump. The NEO drives the alternator and water pump a fair amount quicker. R32 alternator pulley has a circumference of approx 465mm where as the NEO is approx 515mm. I measured this by wrapping 1mm2 wire around one of the belt grooves. Air con pulley has the same circumference on both. Circumference of the P/S pulley on the NEO is approx 375mm. If the ROSS balancer underdrives the P/S pump by 7% i would exoect thr ROSS bslancer to have a circumference of around 349mm. If the ROSS balancer underdrives the alternator by 10%, i would expect a circumference of 464mm. I think the reason the OEM NEO balancer has a larger circimference alternator pulley is because the RB25 doesnt rev as hard or need to rev as hard as an RB20.

Well if you ordered a standard then you should receive a standard. I had a look on my phone and i took two pics. Mine has 306517 engraved on it. What you can do is check the circumference of the alternator and power steering pulleys on the OEM one and compare it to the ROSS unit. See if the ROSS pulleys are slightly bigger.

Well an alternator doesn't put out bugger all current at idle, let alone if its under driven. For your setup, this could not be good. Speak to ROSS, find out if they are doing a 'standard' type balancer yet. Did you order an under driven or a standard? Or you were under the impression you were getting a standard balancer? If they don't do one yet and you'd like to use a ROSS balancer still, you could fit a larger alternator pulley.

I'll be using these, plus a kit of 2. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110764934919?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 You can get these in enclosed tip or open tip and with stainless mounting options as well. What depth would you suggest to mount these at? The 0-5V signal will go into the racepak logger dash. I'll be using E85.

Interesting read there GTRNUR. My manifold will be a steam pipe but i'm sure it will have the same issue. That is really annoying. High temp thread lock didn't help? Surely someone has sorted this issue out, many people have EGTs, more so in drag cars. Depth, yeah, how far do i stick the probe into the pipe? You say not to insert the thread. But i was planning on using compression Glands for the EGT. So there will be no thread inside the pipe. But do i insert the EGT so the tip just hits the gas stream, or so the tip is in the centre of the gas stream? I have brand new Xspurt injectors, but i'm not going to bother flow testing them. They are supposedly closely matched from the factory anyway. Not only will i be using the EGT's for cylinder trimming, but i think they will be a good tool for diagnosing any faults with or letting me know early on that one cylinder has an issue.

This bloke is selling them complete with plenum. $500 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406690-nsw-huge-s13-part-out-sr20-rb25-neo-z32-and-rb-gearboxes/ Fairly good price i reckon.