kitto

Ahh so identical setups. Nice. How come hes using factory cams? Do you find hes got slightly better mid range with stock cams on his? Yes .63 rear is more restrictive, but is much better for response.

Ahh i see, what turbos, housing size, gates, exhausts etc are on the two?

Type A or B poncams? Both still using VCT? What are the differences between your setups. Im retaining the factory plenum for the time being.

Wow at the thread revival. Since this thread i really did change my plans NOW RB25DET NEO Mild head porting Heavy duty valve springs Factory cams (keeping VCT) Factory valves and guides Garage 7 steam pipe manifold GTX3076 w/ .63 rear housing Ill be happy with 320-350 kW @ the hubs which this will shit out on E85. My RB26 build came to a screaming hault for many reasons.

Hitting rev limiter is not good for an engine. Hence why the japs set the limit so high so that the chances of hitting rev limiter are lower. Does anyone know the thread size, pitch and tensile grade of the harmonic balancer bolt for an RB25? Who uses loktite to do these bolts up. I know the manual makes no reference to using a lubricant on the thread when torquing nor does it say to use loktite.

This man, he knows!

Its not much. Only about 7-8mm from memory.

Only difference between the R32 and R33/R34 GTR balancers is the offset of the power steering pulley. The power steering pulley R32 balancer protrudes a little further. If you have an R32 power steering pump (hydraulic Hicas) Then you must use an R32 balancer. Using the incorrect balancer for a specific pump will cause belts to be throen as the pulleys are mis-aligned.

The torque figure for an RB26 harmonic balancer bolt seems a little excessive... But its what the manual says. The Torque figure for the 'lesser' models just doesn't seem like enough IMO. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-harmonic-balancer-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-940.html R33 and R34 GTR $421..

RB26 is 446Nm RB20, 25, 30 are 152Nm from memory. I have no idea why thr RB26 is torqued so much higher.

No there are no conversion kits for this. Engine mounts and gearbox mounts are easy. Exhaust headers are hard as the RHS doesnt clear the rack/steering colum too well. Getting it legal in SA would be a PITA. Is it for track use?

Garage 7 would certainly be able to help with doing the conversion. Declan has done much much harder conversions before.

Nah its not mate. While that one is in English, its just the basic manual, it doesn't include the engine mechanicals section.

No ^

I have personally looked over it and found no issues at all. Im quite anal about engine parts and the block and crank are in great condition. If it wasnt i wouldnt have bought it.

SMS Sent Sorry mate, crank stays with the block and girdle. Tried to PM you but your inbox must be full.

Sign up for the manual on the NZ site above if you havn't already.

Hello all, unfortunately i think i'm going to have to sell my RB26 and all the associated parts i have bought for it so far. I've gone a bit overboard with my RB25 which leaves me struggling to finish the rest of my car. All the other parts are up for sale. I'm in Adelaide. Photos for the RB26 and parts can be organised if you need them. This is just an EOI for the RB26 and parts to suit. What i've got; RB26 complete minus coil packs and injectors. Hot side completely removed but included. Cast mounting point for the alternator was broken off the block when the vehicle was in an accident, could possibly be welded back on. Wiring loom has been stripped of all un-necessary wiring (1/2 complete), ECU, 1x good AFM, 1x damaged, Harmonic Balancer damaged. engine is otherwise complete. Looking at $1800 R33 RB26 Block and crank very good condition - Was to replace the damaged block - $600 CP 86.5mm RB26 pistons new in the box - $800 Firm - Cheapest you can get them for is $900 RB25/RB26 Carrillo Pro H Beam Connecting Rods with CARR Bolts - One of the best rods on the market! - $1400 (These cost me $1600 a year ago). These rods are for the serious builder. Full Genuine Nissan RB26 Gasket Set - $250 Brand New Tomei Inlet Adjustable Timing Gear - $200 ARP RB26 head studs new in box - $300 WIll do a deal for multiple items bought at once or the whole lot. Brand new in the box Greddy Profec B Spec II - Going with closed loop boost control with my new ECU so this is not required - $320 including express delivery to you. R34 RB25 NEO ECU (Auto) and Nistune. The Nistune board is NOT installed into the ECU yet. - $400 RB25NEO Harmonic Balancer. Brand New Genuine Nissan item. I bought this from KMS several weeks ago, but i have now gotten ROSS to make me up a custom NEO harmonic balancer. This is no longer required. Brand new, suits all cars with the NEO engine. $320 RB25DET NEO pistons and rods - 39,000km on them. Very good condition. I'm forging my engine so these are not required. $200 RB25DET Neo engine cover - very good condition, no broken plastic, comes with all the mounting brackets - $100 NEO intake pipe, recirculation pipe and cross over pipe - $100 ono

They have released the new design of the current flat drive pump. Its just been tweaked. The spline drive pump is still a fair way off i believe.

Yes, all the same.

Kudos Motorsport have them in stock at a reasonable price. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-cooling-fan-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-all-0196-r34-all-stagea-wc34-1296-p-1174.html The RB25 fan with the odd looking blades is the most efficient. Even if you have an early type fan. If your replacing it, this is the one to go with. There are two types though. Different bolt spacing between years. Check before you buy.

I dont intend on having all of these inputs cut the engine if something goes wrong. Rich and retard is what i'd like to do for most things. I think there was some mis-understanding with what i was doing. If oil pressure drops at a certain point, i want the ECU to control the accusump's electric valve. If the accusump is not able to prevent the surge (extended amount of time the engine is starving of oil) then there is a second oil pressure sensor monitoring oil pressure at the engine. If the ECU detects a drop here, i won't cut the engine, but rather have the ECU fire an output for a big f**k off warning lamp. This lamp will be illuminated under many conditions, but if the lamp comes on, i back off, return to pits and see what went wrong by looking at the logged data. Yes there are many things that may cause nuisance alarms. Thats something i'll have to work out and decide what is necessary to have as a warning. I'm building my entire care to prevent these problems in the first place. IE, stupidly large baffled and gated sump, proper oil control mods, reliable fuel setup etc etc. But at the end of the day, having the ECU monitor the engines critical systems and then reacting if there is a fault is something i believe is a good thing.

Walk piss off. End of story. GT you may think its all wank but everything im doing has a purpose. Good ones at that. Letting ecu monitor critical engine data and making a ddcision if something goes wrong is much quicker than a human can react. That is jf said human even notices something wrong.

How much for full rear end? Cradle, diff, hubs, knuckles, brakes, shafts, struts and tail shaft? Cheers

Just had a look at the manual for the plugin R34 and sorry no they do not have knock inputs. The KnockBlock would be a really good idea in your case. I'm just wondering if its going to be good for the wire in units as they have knock sensors.