kitto

A bit wrong there. The OLD and NEW Xtreme's still have 2x knock sensor inputs. I'm looking at the Instruction manual from their website in front of me. Both the silver and red Xtreme's have 2x knock inputs. Lighting, atom, rx and storm do not. The E-throttle i am unsure about though.

Yes it can, well the wire in one does anyway. It has 2x knock sensor inputs.

And that doesn't matter to me at all. I dont need that feature. Boost map switching maybe. But the Link can do that. My more main concern is the ECU making complex decisions based on Oil pressure vs RPM, Boost Pressure vs Fuel Pressure etc. What do you think of the Link KnockBlock GT? Is it a good investment to have it wired into the G4 full time. Or will the standard knock readers on board be ok. I dont intend on running the engine close to knock so i dont think it would be feasible for me.

I have to agree with GT and Lithium. Not one of your posts has been helpful. Take your hate elsewhere.

PMd

Walk510 what ECU are you talking about? You seen like a real hater...

I've got one of these. I'll probably go and pick it up tomorrow. They just had a re design and a few small changes. The big change is the gear set is now dura finished.

Ah, so you just use a separate controller like a Greddy Profec B? Any reason you dont like to use the closed loop boost control?

I'm not having a dig at you. I'm just saying, i'm not paying for a Motec. But you seem to keep going on about it. I created this thread so i could learn what the differences are between the Vipec and the Link and which one would be better suited to my application. Yes i'm aware the Motec probably has more functions and capabilities but they come with a very large price tag. The Vipec and the Link seem like very powerful units and well priced for what they can do.

Walk510. Stop posting in this thread. Im not interested in a Motec and your posts are of no relevance to this thread. Your posts are also impossible to read. Thank you. Guilt_Toy What is the internal closed loop boost control like on the two ECUs?

Thanks for your input Guilt Toy. Well i shouldn't have an issue with saturated drivers so long as i use high impedance injectors. I've got Xspurts going in which are high impedance. My tuner is a Link dealer. Yes he's been trying to sell me one, but he fully understands that i want an ecu that has the most features for my application. That being an ECU with the most amount of inputs and outputs that are very customizable and configurable along with an awesome tuning side of things as well. Its my understanding that the Vipec and Link will both happily talk with a racepak dash via can bus?

Im not getting a Motec, end of story. Guilt Toy, you say the Vipec is able to do what i want, what about the Link. Cheers. If i was going to spend $2500 on an ECU id get an autronic SM4

Huh, Paul from Red R Racing (swiper the fox) has been banned on here? What the?? Haltech, meh, my tuner says they are limited with what they can do, limited inputs and outputs. He said for what i want to do, they are too limited and not configurable enough.

Unfortunately the motec comes with a rediculous price tag. Just not justifiable at all.

Lol, im not taking out a loan to buy a motec.

Stay on topic please.

Just make sure a good machinist fits it! Oh if you HAVN'T grub screwd your crank, have this done at the same time. Well worth the $100 to have it done. Once the collar is fitted and grub screws done, quick re-balance. If you have not balanced your flywheel and clutch, do this as well, on its own.

Yep, has to come apart if you want the collar. I've fond that even the long nose cranks have far too much tolerance between the crank and most pumps.

Yes i'm having a Nitto collar fitted to my crank. However, you need to have a machinist fit it, crank must be removed from engine and then be machined down, then the collar heated and knocked on. Then grub screwed on as well.

The factory crank collars tend to be far too small. Too much clearance between it and the pump gear. Sounds like your engine is built so your stuck with the factory drive. At least its a long nose one though. Balanced crank is good as is the ATI balancer. More oil pressure is better to a point. AS A MINIMUM you want 10PSI per 1,000RPM. Oil pressure also depends a lot on what viscosity oil your using. But lets say its a street car, you have your rev limiter set to 7,500 RPM, when the oil is hot, you would like around 90PSI at around 4,000RPM all the way through to 7,500RPM. Being an RB26 your rev limiter may be higher. The more oil pressure you have the better (higher pressure around the bearings prolongs bearing life), but the more oil pressure you have the more problems you have trying to get the oil back down to the sump as quick as possible.

Firstly i hope you have a really good crank collar fitted, even the longer snout drive on the R33 GTR cranks can cause issues. If you rebuilt your engine did you balance the rotating assembly? What harmonic balancer are you using? Ross or ATI? If not, at least buy a new genuine one. Torque the bolt up to the correct amount as well. 446Nm or for an RB26. Start with no shims and see what your oil pressure is like when hot.

Yes, keep it to the V88 and the Extreme. All others are useless to me. No i dont need electronic throttle, i've deleted it on my NEO. Track control pfft, Load dependant boost control solves that issue. I'm driving Xspurt injectors which are 12 ohms anyway. No problem there. Guilt_Toy. You tune both of these ECU's a lot by the sounds of it. A few questions. What i'm doing is setting up my car so that the ECU reads all sensors, Fuel pressure, Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure x 2 (1x at the oil pump and 1x at the engines main gallery, Fuel Temperature, Oil Temperature, Coolant Temperature, IAT etc. Now what i'm wanting to do is set up the ECU to switch on or off outputs depending on the above conditions versus another condition. IE. RPM vs Oil Pressure (oil pump sensor) . If oil pressure is 25 psi or above @ 2,000 RPM, condition is normal. (I'll have several points mapped accross the rev range - IE 4,000RPM - 50psi oil pressure and so on). IF the oil pressure drops below its set point at given RPM then an output on the ECU will fire, enabling a warning lamp and the accusump's electronic valve (preventing oil starvation). Also if RPM is below 300RPM, the output is always on (For engine pre-lubing via the accusump). The second oil pressure sensor will be the same as above, apart from the fact i'd have it switch a different output or cut the engine, or rev limit. Something along those lines. Another setup i'll be doing is Boost pressure vs Fuel Pressure. Ratio will be 1:1, for instance if i have a boost pressure of 20PSI, i should have a fuel pressure of 63.5PSI, if the fuel pressure drops too far at this level i would like to have the ECU go into rich and retard. Can these both do rich and retard? I'll also be doing a few other tricky bits and pieces, but these two are the big ones i want to get under way. Can they both do above?

Guilt-Toy you seem to know alot about these. So the electronic throttle is that the big difference? What are some of the smaller differences, you said the Link can't drive low impedance injectors which is fine for me as i have high impedance injectors. What do you think of the wire in looms that come with both ECU's? Are they well done?

Ok so yes, it appears the link and the Vipec are identical. This issue about the link not having knock control is odd though. As the Link has two knock inputs.

I've heard many different things about the differences, some say they are identical, some say stay away from link, some say stay away from Vipec. Both ECU's should drive the factory coil packs fine. Whether they are the external igniter coil packs of the internal igniter coil packs. They should drive them both. Doesn't matter to me, as i'm doing away with the factory CAS and the factory coils. If there is absolutely no difference, i'd probably grab the Link as my tuner is a dealer for them. But i'm not making a decision because he's a dealer. Only if the link was better or exactly the same. Does anyone know if you can buy expandable I/O cards for either of these ECU's that will plug into CAN?