kitto

Its definately low km champ, everything else points to it being a low km engine. Everything was pretty nice and shiny still, Pistons have a very low amount of carbon build up. Coil pack loom looks new, fuel rail is still nice and shiney, bottom end has no sludge build up, head is clean, underneath the cam covers are like new etc. It was bought off a member on here wrecking a car, not an importer. The exhaust lifters are the only parts showing this kind of wear.

Hey all, so i pulled the head off of my 39,000km RB25 NEO over the weekend, Reason for pulling head off is to drill out the oil drains which i've now done and fit oil restrictors. I still need to die grind away the two rear drains. So as i pulled the cams out and the lifters out, i noticed that the exhaust lifters have excessive amounts of wear, whereas the inlet lifters look like they should on a 39,000km old engine. The exhaust lifters look like they have done 200,000km, not 39,000. Here's a photo for reference. Sorry i dont have a photo of one of the inlet lifters to compare, but it is far far better than this one. It just seems a bit excessive to me. Engine was completely un-opened and it looks as though oil flow to that side of the engine is fine, No excessive wear on the cam or cam journals. Any ideas? Now, onto oil feed sizes. I was under the impression that RB25's used two 1.5mm oil restrictors, when i went to measure them with a 1.5mm drill bit, they did not fit. Unfortunately that was the smallest drill bit i have, so i'll have to get some smaller drill bits and see what size they actually are. VCT Oil feed, i was also under the impression that the VCT oil feed only had a 1.5mm oil restrictor. This is DEFINITELY not the case here, there is NO restrictor at all. This is a little concerning, as the NEO head doesn't have the extra external drain for the VCT like the S1/S2 RB25's do. It relies on draining back through the oil return holes in the block. When i pulled the cam covers off, there was evidence of oil breathing out through the breathers. This is normal yes, but i there was a nice amount of film there for an engine that came out of a street car with low kms. This engine is going to be used for track work, so it'll spend 95% of its time at high revs, so obviously controlling the oil in the head is needed. I'm doing what i can to control it, but i am totally unsure about what to do with the restrictors and VCT feed. Oil pump used will be an N1 (Standard on the NEO). Any input would be great. Thanks.

Funny i've been looking at this on my RB25 over the weekend, i'm trying to delete that entire unit but also trying to keep that valve somewhere in the oil circuit. The ball's are there to allow engine oil (unfiltered) to get into the engine when the oil filter is either so blocked and doesn't allow oil to flow any more because it hasn't been changed for so long or if the anti drain back valve doesn't open completely blocking flow to the filter. Its a fail safe device, if the filter fails, the engine still gets some, but limited oil. If one of your balls is missing, it means your engine is getting some unfiltered oil flowing through to it.

I bought this several months ago from a fellow forum member. Since i have decided to go external oil pump or possibly dry sump with my RB26, this sump is no longer required. Uses factory pick up which is not included. $700 ONO INCLUDING FREIGHT TO YOU! Please PM me. Thanks, Daniel.

Seems that as high possible on the inlet side gives the best results. However, what size breather from the sump to the top of the catch can is going to be adequate? I was thinking a single -12 line.

Nistune, seriously shouldn't cost you too much more than $1k for the NIStune and a tune.

You just have mad luck

Get your machinist to do the drilling for you. But yes i'm doing the same. But i'll probably strip the head myself, do the drains, then get my machinist to just face the head for a new head gasket. Done.

Does this mean your running 2x 20mm breathers from the top of the intake side of the sump to the top of the catch can?

Ok then, well i have a NEO with factory N1 oil pump. If you were pumping too much oil into your head with 1.2mm restrictors then i'll probably block one feed and run something like a 1.3mm in the other. I have solid lifters so i can block one completely, probably not the best to do it with yours as you still have hyd buckets. When will it be on the track again so you can compare results by going with 1.0mm restrictors?

Real quick one people; RB25 NEO sump and pick ups, are they exactly the same as an RB20? I know the sump is almost identical, but does the NEO still have to baffle plates at the back of the sump, i know RB30's do not as the crank would hit them. And is the oil pick up on a NEO the same as an RB20. Reason i ask, i'm about to send an RB20 sump and pick up to be made into a race sump. I'm not able to remove the pan and pick up on the NEO just yet, so i wanted to make sure they are the same before sending them off the get done. Thanks.

By the way, hydraulic RB25 head or NEO with solid lifters?

Yeah id like to put RB26 covers on mine with the baffle plates but factory plenum doesnt allow to.

What engine and oil pump do you have?

Bump

Still Looking for an OP6 housing. Thanks

No sorry it wont. Its not for sale on its own anyway, comes with the entire RB20 wiring loom. Thanks.

Interesting. I'm about to pull the head off of my NEO engine. Jonno, What would you suggest to do with the restrictors if i'm retaining the factory N1 oil pump the NEO comes with. I tried to follow sydney kids table as best as i could and also worked out the cross sectional area of different size restrictors. But still pulling my hair out as to which one to choose. Now going by Simon-S14's NEO which is a full on drift car which sits on the limiter like no tomorrow, he says he has no issue with oil pumping into the head. However he is at high revs for shorter periods of time than a circuit car. I was thinking of blocking the centre oil feed as per SK's table and maybe going down to a 1 - 1.3mm oil restrictor in the rear. Any thoughts?

SOLD!

You live in the UK, you should be the first person on here to be running a thermostat for your oil cooler! If the thermostat fails it just means that it will be stuck open or closed. Oil temps would indicate this and you would investigate.

+1

If your going to bake it, I would think 80 - 100c for one hour would be fine.

PRICE DROP TO $5500! ONO ITS GOTTA GO!

Simon, I intend on using a swirl pot as well, but I'll keep the radiator cap on the radiator for ease of filling most of the system as well as having a cap on the pot. In this method, apparently the cap on the pot is to be of slightly higher release pressure than the rad cap.

Another way to tell is by the cartridge. Often hi flow jobs consist of putting a different cartridge such as a 2860 or 2871. The casting of the cartridge looks different to that of stock, If its a relatively new hi flow, the cartridge will look newer and with less rust.