kitto

My question is, why do you feel you need to change to a programmable computer? Are chasing more power? But yes, NIStune all the way as far as i'm concerned if you dont need all the extra features of an ECU such as a Haltech, Link, Microtech, Megasquirt etc.

84 degrees is soo cold , nothing to worry about. So how do you rate the pwr rad?

Bump

Still looking for a rear housing.

Price is negotiable $6,000 ONO

Just a question - Where is the fill point on the fuel cell?

So how commonly do belts actually come off? The pump im looking at using is an aviaid, it flows 16 gallons per minute which is 62 Litres/min roughly. At what RPM i can't remember. So the sumps you build have a specially designed baffle, with the pickup on the bottom of the sump? How do you go about this with clearance issues? By more than the ordinary oil control, what do you mean? Cheers.

Yeah nah not doing that lol. Means having to pull the crank out and fit a collar. I'm more or less looking for a bolt on kit. External oil pumps are pretty cheap to set up nowadays.

Dont tell me youve seen belts throw off lol. EVOX sump, hmm never heard of it? Any details on it? Links? Yes, oil control is my main concern with this engine aswell as my RB26. I'm pulling the head off, throwing restrictors in, most likely i'll drill out all of the oil drains. I'll be putting 1 or 2 -12 fittings on the RH side of the sump that will run to the top of the catch can to vent crankcase pressure. Obviously good head venting will be done. I'm trying to do every oil control mod i can think of without going overboard and overboard on spending. The NEO comes with an N1 oil pump factory, Sure if i'm careful and avoid rev limiter and i put on a good harmonic balancer i shouldn't run into issues. But there is just that chance the gears could crack. (Waits for Ash to come on here and rant on about how good factory oil pumps are lol).

This would require a collar to be fitted to the crank to run a good quality pump. I just sold my Tomei pump so i can go external. I am in no way going external oil pump for power gains. Only for reliability, thats it. They are much more reliable than any internal pump. Of course you have fittings that can leak and there is the possibility of the belt failing which i have not heard of. I will be fitting an aluminium bash plate to prevent sticks and stones flicking up into to the pump/belt area. An external oil pump with an accusump, a high volume sump is a bullet proof oil setup. I'm also doing this external oil pump, so that when my RB26 is built, i simply remove it from the NEO and put it onto my RB26, of course with a new sump to suit. bigmikespec - Would you just modify the factory pickup and weld on a 90 bend and point it straight out the side of the pan?

Hey everyone, just a quick question or two about external oil pumps for RB's running a steel sump. I've tried searching for info about this and havn't come up with a definite conclusion. What i'm wanting to do is fit an external oil pump to my 25 NEO along with a high volume sump. Question is, where is the best place for the scavenge side of the pump? Would it be adequate to remove the welsh plug on the left hand side of the factory oil, put in an AN fitting and use this as the pickup point. Or would the small size of the oil gallery be too restrictive for the external oil pump. The external oil pumps i have seen, have had a -12 fitting which is quite large. This option would be by far the easiest i believe. Mainly for the fact that if i bought an ASR sump i wouldn't have to modify it and put in a new pick up point. Or is it more advisable to have a new fitting on the side of the sump and use this as the pick up point. Obviously and inline strainer is required. With regards to putting in a new fitting, how is it done, is the pick up just a pipe that runs into the centre of the sump with a strainer attached, or is it done vertically? Thanks, Daniel

Make/Model: Nissan 180SX Year: 1991 Kilometers: 135,xxxkm Colour: Kawasaki Green Transmission Type: 5sp Manual Engine: Redtop SR20DET Modifications: Pod Filter Full body kit including front bar, side skirts, rear pods and rear bar Chrome Wheels Front strut brace Rear strut brace Height adjustable coilovers FMIC and piping kit Heavy duty extreme clutch (4,000km) Exhaust system that isn't overly loud Some shitty steering wheel (have stock one) Pioneer flip out dvd player Reason for sale: Just bought a JZX100 Other comments: Car regularly serviced, just had a low km gearbox fitted, brand new Koyorad twin core radiator, tyres will need replacing. <br style="color: rgb(140, 188, 233); font-family: verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 17px; background-color: rgb(20, 23, 27); ">Price: $6,000 ONO Location: Lockleys SA Contact: Catherine on 0423 790 617<br style="background-color: rgb(20, 23, 27); ">

Throttle body found, still looking for the rear OP6 housing.

Thats what i'm buying! Sold my Tomei to buy one

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod75.htm - $1499 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOMEI-OVERSIZE-OIL-PUMP-NISSAN-GTR-SKYLINE-RB26-RB25-/190524012616?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5c1db848 - $1564 Worth the bit extra for the best 'factory' design pump. Or fork out another $1100 - $1500 for a complete external oil pump kit.

Tomei Pumps are $1500 new....

Not has high failure rate of an N1 no. But wow so many people seeing them fail. The JUN, Trust/Greddy pumps are not worth the $$$. For a bit more you get the Tomei pump which is a 3 piece rotating assembly design, far better than the JUN and Trust pumps.

Trust pumps have high failure rates for what they are

Bump.

The Tomei pump is far far FAR better than the trust, greddy, jun, nitto etc pumps. Definately worth the $$ and the lowest failure rate, I think ive read only 1 case on the net of a Tomei failing. Ive never met someone who has had one or seen one fail. But then again, for a bit more $$ you can go external pump.

They will. If you want them to run after engine shut down. You'll need a Timer kit to keep them on once a falling voltage from the ignition is detected (ie ignition off).

I am loving the oil pressure versus RPM alarm, and also the Boost versus fuel pressure. However, wouldn't it be better to have maybe 10 available points to tune, so you can tune very 1,000RPM/10PSI of oil pressure? When an alarm is triggered? does the alarm automatically go off when the fault has gone or does the user have to acknowledge the alarm?

I'd say this is a very possible.

Ash, i'm only relaying what i have taken from this forum in other threads. Seems there are a lot of workshops seeing a high number of failing oil pumps. As well as the end user. Some people have said they had noticed a high failure rate of the 'new' pumps. And the discussion was going along the lines of there may have been some sort of manufacturing claim. One of my good friends built an RB30ET for the second time round after starving the bearings of oil. He decided to buy a brand new N1 pump for it, i highly suggested that he did not but he did anyway. Car lasted several track days, he only revs it to 6,000 odd RPM as he doesn't need to rev it any harder. Crank collar was fitted. Anyway, he had it idling in his garage and noticed he had lost all oil pressure. Pulling the engine down revealed a failed oil pump. Now from what i can understand, the oil pump destroyed itself while the car was idling. This is just another N1 pump that has failed. The failure rate is just far far too high. As FineLine said, surely you'd know they are greatly hit and miss. To the OP, maybe consider an external oil pump. I just sold my Tomei pump as im going to go with an external wet sump set up as its quite cheap to do and so reliable combined with an accusump.

I'm going to say its most likely because of improper clearance between the drive and the pump gear. Are you using Brand New N1 oil pumps? They are really really really bad for failing. From what everyone can work out, any pumps that were made after 2005 ish, the quality dropped dramatically on the pumps, maybe a change in design, metal change, change of where they are made etc. What harmonic balancer are you using? Was the rotating assembly balanced?