kitto

If you consider posting it, ill ptobably take the turbo pending seeing a photo of the exhaust housing.

Hey all, after two items, no major rush but it would be good to find them within the next few weeks. I'm in SA, but happy to pay for postage. Please PM me. 1. R33 Series 2 RB25 throttle body. MUST BE SERIES 2 R33! I do not required the TPS. Must be in good condition and pretty clean. 2. OP6 rear turbo housing, i only need the rear turbo housing. However i will consider a complete blown turbo with the housing. Thanks, Daniel.

I can see this engine not lasting too long lol.

+1, its impossible to convince people they cause richness, idle issues, hesitation etc etc on an engine with an AFM. The ECU doesn't know WTF is going on when the atmo bov vents. Your still having ignition problems. The boost controller. Its possible your fuel pump is NOT keeping up. You may or may not have a factory waste gate actuator. If its factory it is set to 10psi, but it may creep above this to 11-12 psi. If you have an after market waste gate, who knows what the spring rate is. Remove the boost controller all together and see what happens. Removing it wont do any damage. Just plumb from the turbo outlet into the waste gate actuator with some vacuum hose. Ewwww, yuk, old Turbosmart bleed valve. Disgusting, one of these caused me to blow a ring land in my old RB20.

So dont go to Bursons anymore. Simple.

Split Fires, Ignitor and coil pack loom SOLD!

wow, i got exited when i read this thread, then realised how old it is

Tomei Oil pump sold! Had heaps of people asking about the split fires and FPR, but no ones fronted with the mullah for them yet...

Oh dear, another spark plug thread lol. As above, i'd have to say the BCPR6ES gapped to .9 - 1.1mm. You wont know exactly what gap will work for you, but i would think with only 10psi boost and split fires, you should be able to use them at 1.1mm with no problems. Fairly stock motor, so keep the 6 heat range plug. Ideally you'd use Iridiums, as they last a long long time. By i, myself are one of those people that have had nothing but issues with them.

Why did you move it from the wheel arch to in between the FMIC and radiator?

Another thing you could do is rip off the TD05, sell it, replace it with a high flowed factory turbo, then use an off the shelf dump pipe, put a stock intake pipe, BOV return pipe and crankcase ventilation setup on, get it tuned again (You were talking about getting your tune looked at once you had fixed the miss fire anyway) and there ya go. Now sounds like a lot of work, and well it is. However, it will erase the getting defected for an after market turbo part completely as you cannot tell a high flow turbo from just looking at it. And if you do ever get defected to regency for what ever reason, they wont even know you have a high flowed turbo either. However they are smart enough to pick up on the Z32 AFM, but all you simply do is remove the sticker. That dump/screamer pipe is shocking aswell. Just another option

Tomei oil pump sold pendning payment!

Im using this thermostat. Seems to be pretty good! I've had no issues with it so far. I bought mine from Autosport here in Adelaide.

Ill second it being the AAC valve being dirty or not even wired up. If its fine under load when hot and doesnt miss fire, id say its safe to say its not the CAS, AFM, ignitor or coils, these all usually break down when hot and under load. Check the plug on the AAC valve with the ignition on, yoi should have 12v on one pin. The 0V pin is controlled by the ecu when the engines running. This can be checked with a 12v led to see if its pulsing.

Hey all, cleaning out the shed of some parts i dont need, and some parts that i no longer require due to a change in direction. Pretty firm on most prices! Happy to post any of the smaller items at your cost. PM me on here or TXT 0400 719 226. Located Adelaide CBD. Brand New Tomei Oil Pump, Unused, still in its plastic oily packing, only taken out of the box to have a gander. Comes with the adjusting shims, oil pump gasket etc. I'm going external oil pump so its no longer required. $1450 Inc Postage! Brand New Genuine RB20, RB26 Ignitor pack - $400 Brand New Genuine RB20, RB26 Coil Pack Harness - $230 RB20, R32/R33 RB26, S1 RB25 Split fire coils done about 1,000km - $400 Genuine Sard FPR with some fittings, RB fuel rail adapter - Selling as i need a fuel reg to support 1/2" fuel line, Done 1,000km - $80 HID Kit, H4 Hi/Low Beam, 6000k, 50W - Damn damn bright! Done a total of 3 hours. Comes with B15D White LED parkers - $120 Series 1 RB25 Throttle body - $40 Early Silvertop RB20 (Cefiro) Coil Pack loom, Good condition, plugs are all ok. - $80 600x300x76 Intercooler, It does have damage as you can see in the pics, however it still holds pressure and Does Not leak, One side painted black - $50 RB25DET Neo engine cover - very good condition, no broken plastic, comes with all the mounting brackets - $130 Serck 13 Row Oil Cooler core, Has aluminium angle brackets, This has no engine metal etc in it, only selling as i need something larger - $80 RB26 AFMs, one severely damaged, One in good condition but missing rear mesh - $50 ENR34 Heater Hoses - $40 ENR34 Engine mounts, one rubber damaged - $50 RB25DET Neo Intake pipe, recirculation pipe and crossover pipe - $100 RB30 R31 Harmonic balancer, Good rubber and no chips - $30 RB20 R32 harmonic balancer, Good rubber and no chips - $30

Yep, GTSBoy is correct. Neo uses different pistons.

Yeah, they are costly, i didn't pay that much but it was well over $400!

If you end up wanting split fires and a brand new ignitor, I have both... - Ive got some 2,000km old split fires - Brand new genuine nissan ignitor - Brand new coil pack loom PM me if you want more details. Thanks

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIS-001-Splitfire-Coil-Packs-Nissan-Skyline-GTR32-33-RB26DETT-R32-RB20DET-etc-/190590267877?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6010b1e5#ht_1436wt_1396 Dont f**k around with any other coil pack but these as above. You can get cheaper coil packs out there, but my opinion and many others will argue these are worth the money. To throw another spanner in the works, you could also do an AU falcon coil pack conversion, but this take some time and stuffing around, and then you'll see the coil packs on the firewall. Blah blah blah $600 for a set of split fires is costly, but worth it. Or hunt around on here in the classifieds, i rekon i see a set come up weekly that has done 10,000kms for around $300 - $400. Just be aware you need the DIS-001, Any others ie DIS-008 etc will not work with the RB20. <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">If you literally want him to just check and/or retune the map and you dont want him to do any actual work on the car, then why not just meet him at the dyno? He tunes on a dyno in Salisbury, which is down your way...

I can buy nabco ones from my local brake shop here in adelaide for $47. Surely you'd be able to do the same in your area? They are the same as patrols apparently but im unsure which model patrol.

Is it only miss-firing when the engine is hot? Or does it happen when its cold aswell? It could be a range of things. I would start with; - New BCPR6ES Plugs, i used them in my RB20 with 210kW on BP98 no problems at all, Some people with argue another plug, But this plug is the common copper plug to use in an RB. If it has Iridiums, throw them out and put coppers back in. Once again people will argue they are really good and i'm sure they are, but myself and a lot of other people have had nothing but issues with them. - Clean your AFM with contact cleaner thoroughly - Check all grounds as said earlier - I'd change/clean your air filter and replace your fuel filter - Remove your coil packs, remove the rubber boots and look for any corrosion or wearing on the graphite electrodes, maybe give them a quick sand to clean them up If your still having the miss fire after you've done that, look at in order; - Trying another ignitor - Trying another CAS - Your injectors may be clogged and could possibly be causing a miss, before changing them, i'd at least run a fuel system cleaner through them. Its possible, but before this i'd be looking at the tune. If your suspicious of the tune, get Decs at Garage 7 to take a look at the tune for you.

A lot of that is incorrect i'm sorry. In most EFI cars when you switch the ignition switch to on, but not start the engine, the fuel pump will prime for about 4 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. When you actually turn the key, the CAS sends a signal back to the ECU to say that the engine is rotating and trying to start. The ECU then sends a signal to either a relay or a Fuel Pump Control Module to run the pump. Whenever there is a CAS signal, either when trying to start the engine or the engine is running, the fuel pump is always on. Most EFI cars run the pump at a lower rate on idle (Fuel pump control module controls this). As soon as the ECU sees that the throttle is no longer on idle, the pump then runs at full speed until the engine returns to idle again. Most people that put a larger pump in usually change the wiring and have it so that the pump runs at full speed all of the time as the fuel pump control modules tend to fail and wont usually support the current of a larger fuel pump. Unfortunately running the pump at full speed all of the time un-necessarily heats the fuel. Some people do it dodgy and wire up the pump to be running ALL of the time whenever the ignition is on. This is not good for a few reasons. Firstly you heat the fuel up by pumping it around when you dont need to. But the more important one is in the event of an accident if the ECU controlled the fuel pump, when the engine stalls from being in a car crash, the fuel pump stops pumping, reducing any risk of fuel being spilt due to a ruptured fuel line. If the pump is on all of the time, then you could have fuel pumping everywhere in the event of an accident. Skylines do not have fuel pressure sensors, i am not sure about other vehicles, i would dare say most modern diesels the ECU would monitor fuel pressure. Maybe newer petrol vehicles monitor it aswell.

You'll wanna post up a price your after otherwise this thread will be locked.

Service it, plugs, oil, filter, air filter, clean up the coil packs do a major service such as water pump timing belt etc if its due for it. Clean your throttle body, AAC valve, check to make sure the Idle Air Control Valve IACV is working properly. Its like a choke in reverse on an EFI motor, sits under the throttle body and controls the idle on cold warm up and the regulary fail. Although your symptom doesn't point to the IACV. One you've done all of that and its still not running sweet, take it and get it retuned again by someone who really knows NIStune, if your in SA, get Garage 7 to tune it for you.

I will second that. I picked up one from u pull it in similar condition minus turbo for $120. Thanks.