kitto

Keen on the split fires! Still have receipt/original box? May also be keen on rear brake calipers/pads/flex hoses. Cheers

RB20 AFM SOLD! Genuine Nissan RB20DET COMPLETE Gasket Kit - Includes every single engine seal and gasket possible, also includes Nissan Sealant (for water pump, sump etc). -$250 ono.

GTR injectors and RB20 Head #1 SOLD!

Yes, location? R888's look tempting if your in SA.

PM Sent regarding RB25 throttle body.

RB25 Turbo SOLD!

If he wants the fronts i might want the rears depending on price. i'm in SA too so you wouldn't have to bother stuffing around with posting. Let me know, thanks.

Fag. Lol. Hmm ok, wipers, yes i can understand. Electric windows adds weight uleh! But they never came with manual windows so your kinda stuck.. The wiring for power windows is a little complex as it usually routes all over the place to the necessary relays. Usually there's a thermal overload for them somewhere. Have you ripped out things like all the cruise wiring, abs, radio wiring, speaker wiring, air con/climate control wiring etc.

Simon, what do you want left in the car once your done? That is the best starting point, working out what you do and do not want.

More Parts; R32 GTR working and in good condition ABS module - $150 ono - its HEAVY! So postage will be a bit pricey but can arrange. R32 GTR Computers - $50 the lot R32 GTR clutch booster and master cylinder. Booster right angle piece is broken otherwise perfect - $50

You really need a degree in the bachelor of arts If your having so much trouble undoing them with the correct size screw driver, it sounds like its been pulled apart and had the screws loctited previously. They really arn't that hard to remove at all. As said before though, hex shanked screwdriver.

I got one thats fully complete here in Adelaide. Comes with everything from the head gasket up. Postage can be arranged, but it will be pricey.

Just get some Metric M5 Stainless Steel bolts from coventry fasteners or you equivalent. Thats what i did. I think i used M5 x 10.

Coil packs sold.

Well its not really $10 and $0. Its more like $400 - $500 by the time you get a new FULL genuine gasket kit from the US. (I could use many of the other gaskets so i'd want a full kit). Then the cost to have the head faced for a nice clean surface for the head. New head bolts, some argue you dont need to replace them, I've reused them before, but for $70 and on a decent engine, why not use them.

The Haltech should easily drive the coils. Youay need the 34 coil pack bracket to go with the coils though.

Out of curiosity, what size restrictors did you fit?

Yeah i'm going to do an accusump, It has been on my mind for months. The only issue i see is that when the engines oil pressure gets below the preset value, Lets say 30PSI, then the valve will open, allowing oil to flow. Now this is good. But when about when your coming to a stop and coming into the pits? Is this ideally what you want? I assume thats just a fact of the operation of an accusump.

This was something i was certainly thinking of, Seeing as i want to use one on the RB26 i might get one. However i dont know everything there is to know about them. nor where the best place is to source one? Any Ideas?

Yes, i'm aware of this one for sure. Main reason i wasn't braking harder was because my tyres simply couldn't take any more braking. They would just lock up. The brakes were fantastic, not one bit of fade and have a lot more in them. Much much more. But the tyres were old and were locking with any more pedal effort put in. After i looked at the video, i realised how much i was over revving on down shift. This is all to be worked out the next time im back out there. But the main idea is getting the oil control sorted and to a point where i'm happy with it and i know its going to be a happy engine.

How sure are you of this, i have hear a few conflicting reports. I'll be using a high flowed RB25 turbo with a 2871 cartridge. Power, hmm i would like to think it will make 250-260kW with injectors, AFM and a Nistune. What will i rev it to? Hmm hard question, i do love revs, however, theres no point in revving it much past the engines peak power. Maybe a shift light might come in handy here to get those smooth shifts I'd expect peak power to be under 7,000 with stock cams. Yes i see your point of just throw it in. However, a sump is just so appealing to me, it will have a decent resale value and help keep the oil where it is needed - near the pickup! I'll be using semi slicks yes, when the car was last raced it did a 1.21 around Mallala on $120 Toyo RA1's that i bought from U pull It lol. I did manage to do a better time than several GTR drivers with relatively good setups through the day. How is this so, i dont know. But it felt awesome Thats me, a little rough in many areas haha, but not too bad for a 2nd day out doing a sprint. That was skyline nationals last year.

Ok so with all the responses so far it seems to be the best cost/benefit will be to; 1. Fit oil restirctors 2. Fit a large sump 3. Oil cooler 4. Really well thought out and designed catch can/sump breather setup 5. Leave the stock pump (can anyone confirm that the NEO does come with an N1 pump factory)? 6. Stock harmonic balancer 7 Drop it in I would like to retain VCT, So i'll need to pick the sweet size restrictor. It seems to that 1 - 1.3mm is the around about size to go. But which size will be ideal. The car will get the very rare street drive. Obviously you dont want to starve the head of oil at these low rpm conditions.

I'll be keeping VCT yes, its a good thing to have. No reason in removing it as i'm not changing cams or putting on adjustable cam gears. The 10w40 i used in my RB20 was so bloody hot, WITH an oil cooler. Oil temp was around the 110-120C range on a 23 degree day. So id like to use a much better oil that is more stable at higher temperatures. Remote adjustable oil feed to the head just looks too messy and tricky for this engine. Vented sump will be done, exactly how i'm going to do it and do the catch can setup will come a little later. As i'll have to work out where things are going etc. Well ok, is it really worth the $1k for a properly built ASR sump, or would a $400 extended and gated sump do the trick? I'm prepard to spend the $1k on a sump, it will have reasonable resale value when the engine comes out.

Yes i'll have a huge catch can for sure. I'm still working out a design for one. I'm not one to do things by halves, so what will be done to this engine, will be done right! Yes i need to research oils and what i'm going to use. 10L of synthetic oil is going to be expensive. Royal Purple seems to be a very superior oil, but fark is it expensive.

There will of course be a large catch can installed. A vent from the sump definitely seems to be a smart idea. I dont know if i will plumb the catch can back into the sump. I've seen some funky oil being pumped into peoples catch cans before. Not something you'd want to go back into the sump. I suppose not having it run back to the sump is a good idea. If you have a sight hose, you can actually see if your engine is pumping oil out of the breathers or not. Large sump will be done. I dont really want to pull the head off, but i will to fit a restrictor. Good oil will be used, yes. Unsure of what viscosity and brand as yet. But i'll look into that later.