kitto

Well thats the only issue ive found with this engine. Is that the oem cooler/warmer has been seeping water over time. I would assume deleting it is a smart idea. Ill just change it for an rb20 aluminium filter adapter

Some good replies guys. So fit a restrictor then, that shall be done. Would you bother fitting MH and ARP studs while its apart? Im under the impression that the Neo comes standard with an N1 pump. Is this true? As to the balancer, just use the stock one or throw the ATI unit on? Im not in NSW no, however, next year I plan to be there hitting some of the tracks with any luck. Ill be doing a sump and oil cooler no ifs or buts. There is no disadvantage apart from cost really.

I can understand fitting a restrictor being a good idea. But why not fit a large sump as well? I have read that thread a few times before, good read.

Gday all, i'll try and keep this as short as possible whilst giving all the necessary info. I know quite a bit about oil control in an RB, this isn't another stupid N1 oil pump question. This is specific to my needs and useful info/input will be greatly appreciated. I'm currently collecting parts to build a very insane RB26 for my R31. This will take probably 18 - 24 months to have fully complete ready to drop in the engine bay and start. In the mean time, i got so itchy, i felt i had to get back out racing. So for a 'temporary' engine i have bought a 40,000km RB25 NEO. The car is used for flat knacker circuit. Its previous engine was just an RB20 with the usual bits and pieces. It had an oil cooler, remote mount filter and a thermostat for the oil cooler. I was using mineral 10w40 (spanks myself) with the sump overfilled a litre. At skyline nationals last year i spun a bearing, caused by what looks to be oil starvation. I pulled the engine down, every single bearing including the mains had starved. So obviously lots of oil in the head, minimal in the sump, and with my driving around corners and very late braking, obviously it has surged and done the damage. Now i dont want a repeat of this episode again (but with RB's you never know...), so i'm going to do whats necessary to keep this NEO happy. Even if it is a temporary engine, i'd like it to be still alive when it comes out. I've got a few options in my head that i'm thinking about doing. EVERY option will have at the minimum; ASR sump and a very large oil cooler with most likely an accumulator with much good quality oil. Of course there will be many different combinations to do, but seeing as this is a temporary engine, i wont be doing anything crazy such as drilling out the block drains. Option 1: Fit large baffled sump, put the engine in, hook up large oil cooler and away we go. Option 2: Same as option one, but fit some head to block drains Option 3: Same as option 1/2, but fit an Ati Balancer to help preserve the oil pump - Although i believe this may not be necessary if i'm keeping the factory pump, As its a very low km balancer and i'm not going to be revving it to 9,000. Option 4: Same as option 1-3 but fit a Tomei oil pump to almost delete possible pump failure. This presents a new issue of pumping even more oil into the head. Short nose crank is also a major concern driving a Tomei pump. Option 5: Same as 1-4, but pull the head off, fit a 1.1 - 1.3 mm oil restrictor, face the head, metal head gasket and ARP studs at the same time. Option 6: Same as 1-5, but pull the crank out, fit grub screws to the plugged oil galleries and fit a drive collar. Those options are what i have come up with, i'm sure some of you will suggest your own options, or a combination of what i've suggested. For the record, i already have the Tomei pump and the ATI balancer. So they are not an on top cost. Cost does play a part in this to a fair degree, being a temporary engine i dont want to throw stupid amounts of money at it. I need to find that reliable sweet spot. I've already had people tell me just throw it in, but i've experienced and seen SO many people have oiling issues for me to just not even consider that idea. Your input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Be careful, the ones that go for $150 ARE copies! They work, but require hours of voltage re-scaling as they are nothing like the bosch/jecs unit. Theres an article on garage 7s website about them.

Hey everyone, clearing out heaps of stuff i no longer need that are just taking up space. Mainly RB20 parts, but some RB25 and RB26. Everything is located in Adelaide Hills, SA. I live in the city though so organising to pick up parts may be a little tricky but doable . I will post the smaller items at your expense no problems. Prices are negotiable. Contact me by PM please. MORE to be added as i come across it. Thanks. RB20 Gear (All Silvertop) - I was going to put an RB20 back in my car, but a NEO engine popped up for sale at the right price. So all of this is no longer needed; Head 1 - Good condition, ready to put onto an engine, was overhauled a few years ago. Pretty much complete, comes with valley cover, inlet manifold, head bolts, injectors, exhaust manifold, sensors, front timing belt cover etc etc - $140 ono Head 2 - Condition - Looks ok, missing a few pieces such as AAC valve assembly and a few sensors. Has cams, timing belt cover, manifolds etc. - $60 ono RB20 Block - Suit boring out 20 thou or may get away with a hone. Good crank, water pump etc. Comes with knock sensors, sump, rods and pistons. Pistons are no good - $70 ono Ignitor - $60 Complete Wiring loom That isn't hacked to hell - Includes main harness, knock sensor harness, coil pack harness and fuel injector harness. Some wires on the main loom have been tampered with near the ECU plug. Probably for a Bee R limiter at some point in time. Good loom and complete - $180 ono Green label AFM - In good working order - $80 Set of Coil packs - $50 I've got stacks of RB20 parts lying around the place. Ask if you need something specific, i may have it! RB25 Parts RB25 ECU - Yep its an ECU - $50 RB25 Turbo - Good condition, as pictured, sorry no lines or elbow - $240 ono RB26 parts GTR Injectors - Really good condition, 35,000kms on them (only a few years old - not 20 years old). Bought these several weeks ago off a member on here for my RB20, no longer needed as they dont fit a NEO. - $230 POSTED! R32 GTR Sump/diff - Good condition - $250 ono R32 RB26 AFMs - Both working, however one is damaged, part of the flange has snapped off. - $60 ono pair.

How much for the mandrel and pump pulley and bolts?

If i were you, i'd just retain the factory plenum. Just make your current piping look neat.

Ill start the bidding at $0.99. Hehe. I can vouch for this seller! Genuine reason for sale people.

Hmmm, you say N1 waterpump. The factory pump could be causing issues. The N1 pump design is to stop water cavitation at higher revs. Considered a Nismo low temp thermostat?

The BKR is shorter! Doesn't this mean that the coil pack wont be making as good a connection as the longer CPR? As the BKR plug will be sitting down lower in the valley. The BKR would be fine with a set of external coil packs with ignition leads. But if your using old coil packs especially with worn out graphite electrodes, there wont be too much of a good connection.

That was the info i was given 2 years ago or so from several people when i asked that question... Odd you say, yes i agree. I opted out for new bolts for that head change anyway as i had the time to wait for new ones to come in. I've reused them before in an urgent get it done situation and had no issues. it wasn't a 330kW engine however. Personally, to do it right, i'd put new head bolts in. On another note, if its a 330kW engine, and i would assume your running a metal head gasket, why dont you put a set of ARP studs in?

Still having issues Simon? I thought you fixed all your issues after put in a brand new factory radiator? A large radiator isn't necessarily going to fix the issue. If the coolant passes through the large radiator too fast, the radiator doesn't have enough time to dissipate the heat from the coolant. Is the GTR radiator you have a single or twin row one Simon? Failing fan clutch would certainly be a look in! Considered a Nismo low temp thermostat? Not ideal,but your radiator is never going to get heaps of flow over it because of the low speeds and angle your at But your still asking huge amounts of work from the engine, so it will want to get hot. Are other guys like Hayden having any issues?

IIRC they should be ok to use again. Once. I've reused RB20DET ones before. Its RB30 bolts that can't be reused. I once asked myself the same question, did some internet research and from what i remember, yes; RB20 and RB25 bolts can be reused.

Sounds like the alternator or volt reg. Really need a dc clamp meter to test it properly. Volt meters are handy but can give rricky/false readings.

Good idea to post up offsets... Good luck with sale!

No I havnt seen someone break an oil pump that was caused just by limiter bashing. Harmonic balancers are a serviceable part and should be replaced every XX km. From speaking to tuners and information from a power FC, although im not a huge fan of the power FC. Ive found that high knock readings are found when hitting limiter. How reliable knock readings are from the PFC is another thing.

JEBUS! I got a quote, just recently for a brand spanking new GTX3076R WITH a .82 externally gated housing WITH IT ceramic coated for $2,030. Yes thats right! That was at MTQ down here in SA. Speaking to my friend at Garage 7, he seems to think their even cheap than that now! As the wholesale price in Australia has come down a bit since Mid August. I spoke to the guys at MTQ at World Time Attack, and they said flick us an email when you get home, and after some emails back and fourth about what turbo was going to suit my application, thats the price they gave me. I have put it on hold for the moment though. Other things requiring funds cropped up.

But the atomisation isn't that awesome. Can give a poor idle and poor fuel economy in a daily. The cheaper the injector, the poorer the atomisation essentially.

Haha yep! Usually their not enlarged as much as you might be thinking. Its nothing like drilling an 8mm hole out to 20mm or anything...

Ah ok, from what i have personally seen and been in. The .82 rear housing tends to be a bit laggy on an RB25. Especially if your not using an EBC. However, the first RB25 was using a GT3076 not a GTX. This doesn't make a lot of difference at all, but just a slight amount. This engine was a non NEO engine aswell using BP98 making .347 Hub kW. The second RB25 is a NEO engine, on E85, .63 rear housed GTX3076R making 368kW on the same hub dyno. Its Simon Michelmore's S14. He's had awesome results with the GTX3076R with a .63 rear housing Both engines were also using steam pipe high mount manifolds which do make a difference. Running lower boost pressure may cause the boost pressure to spike as the internal waste gate can't get rid of the large amounts of exhaust gas at lower boost levels. It will do 320kW easily. What fuel are you going to use? E85 or BP98? This will choose your injector size. NIStune - I like it!

What size rear housing is the turbo? Internal or external gate? If your using the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm steel spacer, to space the turbo of the manifold as it will foul. Whats the car to be used for? Street driving? Your power goal and the fuel it runs on will determine your injector sizes as a rough guide. At the power your making, you dont want to push the injector duty cycle past 80%.

The engine itself will hold 300kW with an awesome tune quite well. The rods are good for that and the pistons will last if the tune is right. Its more a question of how warn is the engine, are the rings fried, does the head need to be reconditioned etc. The biggest issue is the oiling system in these. Thats the big one to be sorted, and how to sort it depends on what the car is to be used for. Really, you could get away with forged pistons, new bearings, an acid bath and hone, basic head rebuild, metal head gasket, arp head studs, but spend your money on a crank collar, good harmonic balancer and either an N1 pump with billet gears or a high flow jap oil pump such a Tomei unit with a correctly sized restrictor in the block. If its for track use, fit a large sump, mines baffle plates etc. That would have you a good setup. But you wont see much, if any change from $6k. I'm currently up to $5k and that doesn't include bearings, ANYTHING head related, just pistons, rods, harmonic balancer, an an oil pump, no labour for anything yet either. Thats with the best of the best gear though.

How many kms on them? Cheers.

Excessive use of limiter will eventually break an oil pump. Hard cut does do damage to bearings and could also pay a part in rod bolt failure too. Hit limiter also causes engine knock, which can lead to broken ring lands, pitting in the combustion chamber and on the piston. However, a lot of drifters sit on the limiter all day and i personally havn't heard of someone breaking an oil pump because of it. Oil pump is definitely the weakest link though. Having a short nose crank, stock oil pump, old worn harmonic balancer and hitting limiter all the time. The odds are really against you.