kitto

I've told you twice now...

30 psi would definitely be on the upper limit of the gaskets for sure. I would dare say at that level you'll blow a gasket. People running around 20+ PSI seem to have no issues. But im sure someone can state what level they had a gasket fail at. Just buy a Tomei metal gasket kit, includes plenum to throttles, throttles to head, exhaust manifold gaskets and a head gasket. For $380 US or $495 from hioctane (Tomei head gasket alone from them is $400 odd) You can get them with different thickness/bore size head gaskets too. http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_75&products_id=756 With metal gaskets, you need really clean and nicely machined flat surfaces to get a correct seal.

What do you call stock plugs? Factory Iridium's? They are poor for performance. Copper plugs are the best for performance when gapped correctly. They wear out the quickest though. 80-90% of people on here would be using BCPR6ES plugs gapped between .7 and 1.1mm. Side note - Dude, WTF is with your rocker cover breathers? Why are they linked together? The rocker covers need to go to vented catch can or the PCV/turbo inlet as factory. Im surprised your dipstick doesn't fly out every 10 seconds.

Wrong plugs, your mate is wrong. NGK BCPR6ES, they are gapped to .8mm off the shelf unless you get the -11, they are at 1.1mm. Change them every 10,000.

Stock gtr injectors $500???

Yep, TURBO stock pistons.

Spend the $$ on a NIStune or you'll be spending even more money on a new engine...

How much for the turbo including coolant lines, compressor outlet and dump pipe if you still have it?

If youll do them for $200 posted to sa, consider them sold.

Keen for pics! Reason for sale? Does it come with the angled outlet adapter? Coolant lines and dump pipe? Cheers.

Just go buy one dude. they dont cost much from super cheap auto...

Not required... The smaller lift camshafts use the same base circle diameter as the factory cams. In other words they are machined 'the same'. So they are not required. Just make sure they are in good condition and you have adjusted the valve clearances correctly.

No, you wouldn't use them as you dont have small base circle cams. They are suited to 'Tomei' cams with more than 10.25mm lift.

Yeah, where are you?

If you want to retain the vct but still have a remappable ecu, use a z32 item. Requires some modification though. If you dont want to remap your engine. Just get an rb25 ecu.

Doing things properly aint cheap. But its your engine... You answered your question in a way, you found out stock guides are prone to failing. Shouldnt that tell you to replace them. Not just do a dodgy and cut them flush?

+1 to fitting bronze valve guides. Ill be doing this on my build. Iconel exhaust valves are a good idea aswell.

Try a Nissan Dealer?

No worries. If hes using a factory/Ross/ATI RB26 balancer he'll run into this problem. If hes running a factory/Ross RB30 balancer he wont run into this problem i have.

This seems to be the case with HR31's. The engine seems to sit further back than it does in a 4 door Aus Spec. It seems the stock RB26 clutch fan and viscous clutch dont get too close to the fan in HR's. In a 4 door, using the RB26 viscous clutch places the fan way way to close to the radiator. First stomp on the brakes and the fan is going into the rad, no ifs or buts. I believe the engine mounts or possibly even the cross member may be different,. Reason i'm almost certain the engine in a HR sits further back than in an Aus Spec 4 door is because of this fan dilemma and also because i bought a RWD RB26 extended and baffled sump from DECEIVE in WA that came out of his HR31. It fitted up fine in his car, but in my 4 door. Its fouling on the sway bar. IE, it appeared to me that the engine MUST sit further to the front of the car in an Aus spec. I've never played with a HR before, nor have a i paid any close attention to the engine mounts/cross member. Its got me baffled. But back on the thermo subject. Stock clutch fan (RB25/Late RB26 type), good clutch and SHROUD with a good clean factory radiator should see you have no overheating problems. If i can get the factory clutch fan to work in my Aus Spec R31 without it hitting shit, i'll definitely be keeping it.

Sometimes a huge radiator can make you worse off. As the coolant flows through the rad too fast and doesnt have enough time to cool down. Unfortunately ill have to use thermo fans in my R31 as the clutch fan will hit the rb26's harmonic balancer using an R31 viscous clutch. And using an rb26 clutch pushes tge fan too close to the radiator. Id prefer to use a clutch fan, even when my car is for circuit only. They just work so damn well.

You can, but why the hell do you want to put a thermo fan in? Stock rb25 clutch fan WITH the shroud shits over any thermo fan. If your having over heating issues, your problem lies elsewhere. Stock radiators are fine aswell.

Early nissan blocks were painted blue in the L series days. All RBs were black out of the factory. This is what gave the RB30 its famous "Nissan black motor" name amongst the Holden people back in the day. Several coats of high temp engine enamel will be good.

A stock head will flow more than enough for your power goals. If you really wanna throw some money at it, just simply clean up the ports a little, match the inlet manifold a bit better to the head. If you want to do valves, its probably only necessary if you really want to; to put in iconel exhaust valves. Factory exhaust valves in RB's have a tendency to burn out. More common in RB26's though. Bronze guides are another popular thing, highly recommended when fitting stainless/iconel valves. Some heavy duty springs, a set of cams if you wish and be done with it. Just have someone who knows RB's rebuild it. A very good mate of mine made 347kW @ the rear hubs on 19 PSI on BP98 with a completely internally stock RB25. It has; Supporting fuel system GT3076R .82, externally gated Camtech 264/264 9.00mm lift cams Garage 7 steam pipe manifold Forward facing plenum - which actually almost wiped his whole mid range torque curve. Not worth it for the slight increase in power and slightly better response. Thats all it had, no head work, just a really good tune. Unfortunately it recently threw a rod out of the block. Rod bolt failed, its now getting a forged bottom end. But hes not doing any headwork, just a rebuild.

Damn it, if this was T3 i would have bought it. It should sell pretty quick!