kitto

I'm in SA. Yeah i know Just Jap do them, but i'm sure there is somewhere cheaper. I saw you forsale thread and i'm sorry your block is way too rediculousy priced... Add another $300 to the price your asking for your block and crank, and thats what i paid for my complete RB26. Thanks, anyway.

Hey all, not sure if this is the right section but anyway. I need a replacement s/h RB26 block + girdle as the RB26 i picked up has a damaged block from when it was in an accident. So i would like to know the fair $$ value for one. I have seen some rediculous prices for RB26 parts.... Or on the other hand, i'm thinking about buying a brand new N1 block and possibly crankshaft. Where would i look to find the best prices for these?

What is the block like? More details, does it need just a hone? Was the engine over heated, chances of there being cracks in the block? Whats your price on just the block now?

Bump Bolt ons SOLD

THE FOLLOWING IS EOI! Got my eyes on an engine at the moment that i'd like to buy, but need the cash for it. These parts will need to be removed from my track car as they are still all on it! Photos to come RB25DET Head - 95% complete! Bought this to do my 25/30 conversion but i'll sell it to get this other engine! - Very good condition head! Comes 95% complete! Has inlet manifold, throttle body, cam covers, cams, cam gear cover, CAS, fuel rail, injector loom, exhaust manifold, cross over pipe etc. Its missing; coil packs (still has coil pack brackets), injectors, valley cover and no wiring loom apart from the injector loom. Not sure how much i want for this as of yet. RB25DET turbo - Excellent condition, no issues at all. Still fitted to car - $300 RB20DET silvertop complete head setup or complete engine if you like with a knocking big end bearing. Head is in fantastic condition, very clean head, no noisy lifters. comes with the bottom end if you want it, complete head, no turbo, no coil packs, loom or ECU. - $350 RB20DET silvertop block, crank, rods and pistons disassemblied - Suit a rebuild, but all parts can be reused. Crank isn't damaged - $50 RB20DET ECU - Remapped for an RB20 with Sard FPR, 25 turbo, 3" exhaust, FMIC, stock injectors and AFM yadda yadda - $150 RB20DET wiring harness with AU falcon coil packs wired in! - PLUG AND PLAY FOR AN R31!!! Yes thats right, connect this RB20 wiring loom to your RB20, and it will plug and play with all your factory plugs in your R31, your temp gauge, tacho and fuel pump will all work straight away. For temp gauge to work properly you will need to swap the RB20 unit for an RB30 one. Will also suit RB30/25. - $600. Why so expensive you ask? simple, the hard work is already done for you, you dont have to buy the wiring loom, then pay for the falcon coil packs, then go to u pull it to get the plug for the AU coil packs, then buy igniton leads then pay someone such as me to come out and wire it up for you. PLUG AND PLAY FOR AN R31! Loom is in good condition, AFM wiring is extended to reach AFM located near T/B, comes with coil pack loom wired up to suit AU falcon coil packs, AU falcon coil packs and ignition leads to suit. Very good bargain! *Plug and play May not suit HR31, suited to Aus spec's - But not hard to modify* PAIR 30mm bolt ons - 4 x 114.3 Hub centric - $110 2x Green label RB20/S1 RB25 AFMs both in good working order - $80 ea Will more than likely have more stuff to come! Please make offers and ask any questions you have.

Bump! Adding more gear - Can someone please tell me how to edit the original post? Wow i sound like such a noob - well i guess i only have 36 posts. I've got a bit of RB20 and R31 stuff for sale. Might have a complete RB20 with bottom end knock for sale soon, or i'll wreck the engine out. Silvertop RB20 inlet manifold - comes as pictured, no injectors, fuel rail, no AAC, no TPS. As you see it - $60ono RB20 Silvertop Cams - Pretty good condition - I believe they're an upgrade for an RB25?? - $70ono Early RB20 cam gear cover - $40 Silvertop RB20 cam covers - Make your 25 look like a 20? Lol - $50 Bosch external 014 - VLT? fuel pump with bracket for it - $80 Dark Tinted LH hot plate. Match it to your dark RH one! - $50 Rose tined LH hot plate. Match it to your rose RH one! - Does have a crack as you can see - $25 S3 grilles, 2x black, 1x white with a Nissan badge - $30 ea S3 STRAIGHT Reo - $80 Black/white S3 front bumper, fairly straight except for the RH side has damage, pretty easy repair but i no longer need it - $40 Grey S3 front bumper, straight except for the damage on the front as pictured, once again easy repair but i dont need it - $40 WHEELS; Stern (Jap 3 piece wheel) 16x7 and 16x8, offset of around +20 to +25ish. FRONTS CLEAR R33 calipers with no spacers. Fronts have no tyres, rears have tyres but they're dead. Comes with a set of small lug nuts. - $300 firm Custom made MDF rear parcel shelf suit AUS spec R31 covered in black carpet, suits 6.5" speakers - $50 Cutout for seat belt Pacemaker extractors RB30E - $100 Front + Rear Blue Ti seats - No rips, no tears all in good condition, if your an anal flamin mongrel, they could do with a good clean, the left seat in the photo is just a bit dirty - $150 the set Head lights - $70 pair

Would you sell the engine wiring loom on its own? Cheers.

Just correcting a few typos on the thread! The oil restricers are 1.5mm not 2.5mm as said. The pistons are RB30ET items not RB30E. I should of really proof read it twice! Hopefully these photos work;

Hey all; Ok so i'm going to sell my performance RB30 stuff that i have. I was going to build an all out high power reliable RB30ET. But i have now decided to go another route. I'm chasing rev's over outright torque/power. Whats involved: RB30E Block - Acid bathed, decked head face, 2.5mm oil restricters fitted to both oil feed galleries, bored and honed out +1mm overbore, new welsh plugs and painted black ready to go! RB30E Crank - Shot peened, JUN oil pump collar fitted, oil galleries grub screwed and crank has been linished. RB30E Head - Completely stock, was fully reconditioned and travelled around 5,000kms before being removed and re-faced to suit this engine. Hypertec RB30E performance pistons +1mm overbore. Arias steel rings to suit above pistons RB25DE Oil pump - Most suitable oil pump to use in an RB30ET application Engine also comes 'complete' as per say. It will come with stock rods with stock pistons, RB30E inlet manifold, timing covers, RB30E loom, standard RB30E ECU, dizzy, spare set of lifter blocks and lifters etc etc. I'll try to supply you with as many RB30 parts as i can to get you going. I had plans to use forged rods, racing bearings, steel layered head gasket, large cam etc. All machine work was done by Lewis Engines, including fitting the crank collar, checking oil pump and so on. Price; The whole lot, plus any other RB30 stuff i can throw in to help you - $1200 Firm (The machine work and JUN collar cost me $1300 alone!) I will only consider seperating the pistons and rings from the package. Therefore $300 for the pistons and rings and $850 for everything else. Block + crank would be very ideal for an RB30DET project aswell! Does not include any turbo or turbo manifold or performance injectors etc. PHOTOS TO COME SOON! Please ask any questions you have, please no time wasters, genuine interested buyers only. CONTACT; PM here, email - [email protected] or TXT 0421 388 540 Located in the Adelaide Hills. Please genuine buyers only!

What did you find out about your S14/R32 rods?? I dont want teins as of the price and the fact that you can't use oem gear with them. I got the modded knuckles off Nigel, yeah i know he does offset rack spacers. But the R31 would have to be the only friggen Nissan that won't accept them. (Rack is too close to K frame, so ball joint and boot will hit the K frame). I saw that Cazman was selling one straight rack spacer, but what use is one? Won't i need two, one for each side?

Hi guys, i need to know what is the longest tie rod and tie rod ends on the market to suit an R33 rack? Reason being, i have my 31, with S13 suspension with an R33 rack, but i now have shortened knuckles. Therefore my R33 tie rods are falling a bit short. They still thread into the tie rod ends, but only about 10mm or so on each side, when you really want at least 30mm. So i was just going to try and get some longer tie rods and tie rod ends to solve the issue. Really don't want to weld a nut onto the tie rod end, just doesn't sit to well with me. So now apparently S14/S15 has the longest tie rods out there, but no one can tell me how much longer they are over a 33 item. There is also conflicting opinoins that the rack side thread is M12, but some other people say M14. As far as i can work out, if these are the longest ones they do, they're only going to be 10-15mm longer than the R33 tie rod, so i'll need a longer tie rod end to help make up the slack. Does anyone know if there is a longer tie rod end that is longer than the R33 item. And no i do no wish to use rose jointed tie rod ends. Thanks guys. Daniel.

Hey guys, I have a KKR480 turbo T3 flange, brand new, never used, was going to use it but i now have other plans which wont happen for a long while, so its no use to me. Its opened, original packaging has been lost but it is UNUSED. Comes with all fittings etc. $550 firm. PM here, i'll try to respond quickly, or txt me on 0421 388 540 to get a very quick response. Will post at buyers expense. Thanks, Daniel.

Also Chasing R31 parts aswell; Good condition S3 Ti grille (honeycomb type), none of this broken and chrome peeling shit. And a preferably white bootlid WITH S2 black bobtail boot spoiler attached to it. (Local pick up only thanks) Thanks.

Hey all, simple one. Chasing a really good condition 'green stickered' silvertop RB20 or S1 RB25 AFM. Prefer to pick one up in SA, but will consider other states. Best to txt me on 0421 388 540 or email me at; [email protected]. PM on here as a last resort Spanks.

You shouldn't need it mate. If your putting in an RB30 (Assuming 25/30), then you wont use it, as you'll most likely be going a bigger fuel pump and different management anyway.

I'd really appreciate it, if people would not whore in this thread. It has a genuine purpose. Take chat elsewhere, thanks.

I posted in the SA section of ns.com and r31 club. Fingers crossed. Thanks matey.

Hello all, well I want to go to drift school basically, but for some reason my entry didn’t get through. All spots are now filled. However, if you have entered and you need to pull out for whatever reason please let me know. I’m not sure if your able to get a re-fund or not? I’m not sure how it works. If you don’t, I’m quite happy to pay you the $150 entry fee to get in, this way you wont lose your cash. (However, i'll only pay this, if i take your posistion as such - ie, i wont pay you $150, then have to pay another $150 for my own entry as i'm very poor at this time). If you do get a refund then maybe we can both call Rob (organiser) and arrange that your dropping out I’m entering, probably have to do this anyway…. If I don’t get in, well that’s life. But I thought on the long shot, someone may have to drop out due to other commitments or the car has created a problem etc etc. Please let me know Asap if your able to help out. I’d like to know by the end of this week, so I know if have to buy my tyres and all that other jazz or not… Contact; PM here or email; [email protected] or 0421 388 540 – Txt me, as I may not be able to answer, if you send a txt I’ll call back asap. Thanks heaps everyone, Daniel.

Finding a new O2 sensor isn't easy!!! I am borrowing a mates remapped ECU, the setups are almost identical so it should be alright. The only way i could rule out a leak in the cooler would be to hook the afm straight up to the T/B and see how it runs. My new leads will be made up tomorrow, i'll have a play then.

I've checked all that, all seems fine. I thought about checking the ECU. Am i able to use one that has been remapped?

Hey mate, well next up is new leads and i'll borrow a known working set of falcon coil packs. I'm not forking out $100 when i dont have to straight away. No i havn't had the injectors cleaned. Its around the $150 mark. And they're only stock items. That will happen last if i can't find the problem. Car will be thrown on the dyno before i clean the injectors i think. I'm thinking electrical, as i had it idling just before and it was breaking down, as in dropping a cylinder and coming back again. Fuel wont cause that issue. So this is making me think its coil packs and or leads. 02 Sensor will be replaced, but i thought because its a closed loop O2 sensor, the ECU only reads the signal when cruising or decelerating and decides if its running too rich? Anyone know what a Silver top RB20 O2 sensor is worth? They are different to an RB30 one.

Hey Guys - UPDATE time. Ok so just now i have changed several things and they have made no difference what so ever. I have changed/checked - AFM - Checked for leaks again - Regapped plugs down to .7mm - Changed CAS to another one again and no difference - Put a front pipe on and it has no difference, the miss is now more noticable though - Checked all leads and ignition connections again - Installed my SARD FPR - Fuel pressure at idle is set at 38PSI - A tad above Factory Factory fuel pressure at idle is 2.5kg/cm = 35.558PSI, so i upped it a little. I also played with the pressure up and down - no difference. Tomorrow i'm going to get some custom leads and try them. Only other two things i can think of would be coil pack and ignitor pack.

Hey matey, cheers for the reply. Fuel filter is brand new. O2 sensor is shagged i'm sure of it, but i'm positive it wont cause a fault like this. Youv'e really replaced that many falcon coil packs? Were they completely stuff or breaking down? Did they actually break down on idle?

***Apologies for the long post*** RB20 Gurus please read. Hello all, i would post up photos to show you exactly what i'm talking about but i can't. Now we all know that your EFI engine has a fuel pressure regulator, but my RB20 has two! Yes two and i have seen quite a few other RB20's with two fitted as well. But alot also only have one. The main one is obviously the one at the front of the engine, its a normal Nissan FPR, and it gets it vac/boost signal from the inlet plenum itself. The other one i am talking about is fitted at the rear of the fuel rail, it looks identical to the other one except this one gets its vac/boost signal from the idle air control valve line, or in other words before the throttle body. If you know your RB20's you'll know what i'm talking about. The odd thing is, is fuel pressure from the tank comes into this FPR at the rear and goes through it, then into the rail, feeds the injectors and then the remaining fuel flows into the 'main' FPR as per normal. My question is, WTF is it doing there and can i remove it? Now the reason i ask, can it cause a missfire, its well because my car has a bad missfire! NO i DO NOT think its coil packs. Why? - Because i'm running EL/EF/AU Falcon coil packs, now these coil packs are second hand and so are the leads. Plugs are brand new NGK Coppers BCPR6ES gapped at .8mm. Symptoms; Car starts and runs fine at 15 degrees BTDC (normal ignition timing), come on full boost in second and as we get to 4500 - 5000RPM the engine will basically cut completely out at full throttle, however if i keep throttle on at about 1/8 it will cough and splutter until around 6,000 and then clean up and reach limiter. The engine will also occasionally miss at idle, but this is where it gets interesting, if i hold the throttle on around the 2KRPM mark with no load it will miss fire like crazy, not cough and splutter, just miss and pop, yes its running on 6cyl. Now keeping this in mind, the engine still at 2KRPM no load... Now if i retard the timing completely back to 0 degrees the miss goes away completely. No i havn't driven it at 0 degrees timing and i'm not going to. If i advance the timing the miss gets a lot worse. Interesting huh? Mods to car; (R31 Skyline BTW) FMIC Catch can inline No exhaust at the moment - just dump VG30 turbo - not that it matters - Factory 10PSI AU falcon coil packs Bosch 040 Non - remapped ECU Runs on BP Ultimate Things i have tried to rectify problem; Cleaned AFM that much you could eat off it Timing Checked plugs Changed CAS to a known working one - no difference what so ever Made sure it wasn't surging Checked for vac/boost leaks Checked and clean all ignition connections Compression is OK Things i have yet to try that are possible; Change leads - doubtful cause Change coil pack - doubtful cause Change ignitor pack Change FPR - i have a SARD one going in Change plug gap Change AFM just to be anal Oxy sensor wont cause a fault like this as its only used in closed loop Run injector cleaner Probably a few more as well Now the reason i say that it wont be the coil pack or leads is because i highly doubt that it will miss the way it is at 2KRPM with NO load! The engine also did the exact same thing with the original coil packs so i doubt its the newer packs. If you have any idea where i should look please let me know, i know its not a common miss fire fault normally caused by coil packs. I would like to have it fixed before i throw it on the dyno, it could take hours to find the fault. I'd really like to put dyno time/money towards a remap. I'd look forward to your replys. Thanks!!!

Hey all, as the topic says, i'm searching for some extractors for a CA18DE RWD (S13), although they don't need to be for an S13 as the motor isn't going into an S13. Just needs to be RWD Will consider Aus wide, but SA preferred. Thanks, Daniel.