kitto

Buy a stagea NEO motor. They are cheap as feck.

Air Flow Meter most likely. Check its connected still. If it is try cleaning the internals and the connections with electrical cleaner.

Just get a genuine Nissan item. Cheap crank pulleys (you woulnt even call them a harmonic balancer) can and will damage your engine. Especially your oil pump. RBs have a very close relationship with the harmonic balancer. So get either a genuine Nissan item, Ross or ATI unit.

Wow this thread has been useless haha. Surprised its still open.

Well then you'll be spending thousands and thousands...

You bought a Skyline, you want to modify it but you dont want it to cost too much? My advice, sell it and buy an Getz. Use that as your daily.

Alternator for sure. The tell tail signs are there. The battery warning lamp was coming on notifying you that the alternator was starting to fail. Eventually it did completely fail and the entire car from that point on ran off the battery which then lead to a complete flat battery and your car stuck in the middle of a road. Replace the alternator, stick the battery on charge for 24 hours and you should be good to go.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/ Pricey but rated to 40A. What pump are you using and whats the maximum current draw. Fuelab pumps have built in PWM contollers. They just require a 500 - 1500Hz input.

You don't dick around do you haha

Errr should just clear straight through with no issues. Unless they decide to full on inspect it. That may hold it up.

The warning light is a part of the excitation circuit through the regulator. The regulator is most likely on the way out. When that circuit fails the alternator stops producing charge as there is no excitation current to produce an electro-magnetic field inside the armature.

Yeah genuine new Nissan clutches seem to be the only go. But at over $500 a pop, they are damn expensive.

OEM Nissan head gasket and factory head bolts. No point in wasting your cash on ARP studs and a metal head gasket when your not pumping lots of boost into it or asking for a lot of power. You also can't use a metal head gasket unless you face the head and ideally face the block. Do you know what was causing the leak?

I would start with a leak down test to see just how much each cylinder is / is not sealing and go from there. Oil setup seems fairly good though. So its filling the catch can with oil?

Exactly. I never said anything about storing E85 for a daily. With a flex fuel sensor you go to the servo and put what you like in. Straight 98 or E5 - E90. Whats the issue and why so hard to understand. There is no mixing or storing anything.

To the OP. If you want to reduce lag there are other ways to do it. - A turbo suitable to your aplication and power goals - Anti lag if your keen - A well set up ignition system using a crank trigger setup so you can have dead accurate ignition timing all the time enabling you to be more aggressive in areas of the map without having to worry about ignition scatter from the OEM CAS. E85 really helps here too as its less prone to knock. - Dont delete your FMIC, but instead take the piping along the shortest route. Theres other ways as well. Jet_r31. So you'd rather mix up a water/meth mix for your family turbo car every time you drive it rather than simply have an ethanol content sensor allowing you to just drive it and forget...

My tuner has done just that to his daily. Its perfect with no issue. So as far as im concerned I do get it.

Ethanol content sensor. That is all.

Thread is pointless. Now that E85 has been available for some time now im not sure why people still bother with meth injection. 500HP out of an internally stock NEO is achievable with a factory turbo manifold, externally waste gated turbo of your choice, factory inlet manifold and a supporting fuel system.

Its the factor oil filter spacer on an RB20. Its only there to make changing the filter a bit easier. You dont actually need it. You can pull it off, unscrew the fitting in the block, lock titr and thread in an RB30 oil filter stud, clean up the gasket face then spin on your remote adapter. Or just get another spacer from an RB20

What brand rotors? Slotted or normal discs? What brand pads and amount of material left? Overall condition of the calipers? Cheers.

It probably isn't a wiring issue. Somewhere i read that you have a newish coil pack loom? As you have an igniter, the wiring from the igniter to the coils is doing the work. The signal from the ECU to the igniter is just that, a signal to tell the power transistor's in the igniter to switch the high current earth for the ignition coils. There is no load on the signal wiring. What i dare say the issue was, was the coils simply couldn't work under boost because the duty cycled asked from the coils was doubled because of the wasted spark. Even though the ignition on the exhaust stroke isn't really putting any load on the coil, it may have been enough to cause the coil packs to break down when asked to keep firing under boost. Having a high dwell combined with the doubled duty cycle may have played a part. You have splitfires though yeah? I would have thought they would hold up ok.

Huh? The point of that is what exactly?

f**k the FPCM off. They tend to fail. They are also bad for the pump as the slow it down by dropping the voltage not by PWM.

Might be AFM related but i doubt it. Has it got Nistune / Other after market ECU? I'm going to have a guess and say maybe its the Air regulator or the ECU (If factory) isn't seeing the cranking signal for fuel enrichment on start up.