kitto

Try Kudos Motor Sports.

They need an external igniter though..

Check fuel pressure before replacing it. Have you changed the AFM for a known working one? You havnt got a massive vac leak somewhere? How does it run with out the AFM?

Just because a coil packs output voltage is ok under no load, doesn't mean it's firing properly under load. What coil packs are you using? What part no plugs? Have you considered it might be the igniter or CAS? Is your fuel pump working ok? A dud fuel pump and or restricted fuel system will cause an engine to not run on all cylinders.

^^ - No there is no resistor period. I don't know what the part is you've circled. Too small to tell on the phone and I don't know R34 engine bays like the back of my hand. Why do you think it's a resistor pack and why do you think it needs replacing? More info needed. What is the car doing / not doing?

R34 RB25 NEO's do not have a resistor pack for the injectors. They are high impedance driven straight off the ECU. You sure you havn't got it confused for something else? EDIT - As seen in the attached wiring diagram for the NEO engine. There are no resistors for the injectors.

Silly question... But have you replaced the plugs with coppers gapped at 0.8mm? If not, do that first. Use BCPR6ES.

I looked at these and was pretty keen on them. But their physical size is a problem. They were too big for where I wanted to put them on the firewall. I ended up going with LS2 truck coils. I havnt tested them yet as the car is a long way off. But from what I've heard / read. They will handle a lot of boost. They have been used on 1100kW setups.

NEO Coil packs SOLD S2 RB25 Throttle Body SOLD

Dont forget, manifold design plays a part in waste gate selection. As does waste gate position.

Yes you can so long as you have Nistune Youll need to get your local Nistune tuner to make the changes and retune if necessary.

Yes it will. That was why i bought it, to bolt onto my NEO. But i ended up going forward facing plenum with an after market throttle body anyway.

Still have a fair bit of this stuff lying around for anyone interested.

Try Nissan or KMS.

Simon-S14 has put a Jericho dog box into his car sucessfully. It is not a bolt in job. But he is impressed with it

Dog engagement gears are no good for street as it causes premature wear on the dog rings.

For a stock 25. Yes too big. Will pump far too much oil into the head.

More details of how you've plumbed up the header tank? Is the base of the header tank linked to the bottom rad hose? So the radiator filler neck is connected to the top area of the header tank? How exactly have you connected the top of the engine to the header tank? You should simply run a line from the original bleed point to the header tank.

Have you also thought that maybe your coils are actually stuffed?

Nice work Brad! The swirl pots do look good! I'll grab one of your swirl pots when i'm ready! Simon, i could only suggest that maybe you bleed from that buldge section as well as the radiator neck on the rad.

Sorry mate, not fully sure what you mean? Do you mean if i have a down flow radiator that i must bleed from the top tank to the header tank? This of course would be done. I would just do it from the filler neck. But if i have a swirl pot this shouldn't be needed as the fitting at the top of the swirl pot back to the header tank should be higher than the radiator top tank. Just had a geez at your facebook page Brad. I'm guessing you havn't uploaded any photos of cooling setups yet - can't seem to find any.

Ahh yeah no problem Nice work! Yeah well i think i'll run a swirl pot. Why not. So long as it clears the clutch fan (Still yet work out if i can use a clutch fan). I've heard a few people saying the PWR rad's arn't worth the money you pay for them. The off the shelf 42mm rad to suit an R31 from them is well over $800 and is only single pass. I'll have to make up a custom header tank as i've got things everywhere in the engine bay - Having tubs doesn't make this any easier either. I'll probably place it behind the drivers strut tower. That way it will be higher than the engine and the swirl pot. Oh, do you remember what size welch plug you use for the thermostat housing off the top of your head? I've just pulled it out and measured the diameter - 18.4mm approximately.

OK no problems. In your experience, is it much better to use a swirl pot? I havn't got a radiator yet, so when i buy one maybe i'll look into something custom - with no filler cap and a -12 or -16 fitting in the bottom tank for the header tank return. I was looking at a racepace 42mm unit, maybe they can help me here. The two bleed points from the runners to the top of the header tank are 1" from the top (The very top of the header tank, or the overflow nipple?) Where does the bleed point from the swirl pot feed into on the header tank? Same height or lower? Is your swirl pot generic for all RB's, or do you change them around a bit between R32 / 33 / 34 / 20 / 25 / 26? The only issue i can see with a swirl pot is trying to get the header tank a substantial amount higher than the top of the swirl pot.

I was hoping you would see this thread Brad. Your very helpful with this sort of stuff. 1. Point 6 is the return from the turbo, you've said to run this to the header tank. Where do i run the turbo return line to now or have you mistakenly said to run point 6 to the header tank. 2. Ok so if i run a header tank and coolant swirl pot; The top of the swirl pot to a point on the header tank using -4 or -6?, Points 7, 8 and 6? To the header tank in -4 or -6, 1" from the top. Very bottom of swirl pot to the bottom radiator tank or can it be tee'd into hose? with a 3/4" minimum hose. Use a blanking cap to block of the radiator fill neck and also block off original overflow point - does the neck need to welded shut or can i do what i stated? New overflow point is from the header tank. If i dont use a swirl pot i think its pretty self explanatory. it was what to do with the block fittings which was doing my head in. I assume you do this regularly with RB's brad, do you block the thermostat housing with a welch plug and just put a bung in the rear fitting like i suggested? I saw in the other thread that you manufacture swirl pots to suit RB's. Are they made in such a way that you simply cut an OEM hose to suit, insert the swirl pot and your done? Do they clear clutch fans with no issues? Thanks mate.

Yes you can delete it, Just blank off all the piping. Depends on what ECU you have as to whether it will let you do a table for PWM idle valve control vs coolant temperature i'm not sure. But i would think most ECU's will let you do this. Say at 0 degrees C coolant temperature you would have a target idle of 1400RPM or there about and at 85-90 degrees C you would have a target idle of 700RPM or whatever you wanted. I will be doing this exactly with my RB25. Idle target table vs coolant temperature. I'm using a Link.