kitto

Hey all, this is a bit of a side step from this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/422915-coolant-swirl-pot/ What i am trying to work out is the most logical way of properly setting up the cooling system for an RB25, in this case a NEO. This is for race use, so no heater core. I am trying to get rid of any pipe work that is not necessary for cooling. For example, i no longer have the factory oil warmer, cold start coolant valve, throttle body heating or heater core. I will be fitting a coolant swirl pot and a header tank if deemed necessary. Obviously you do not want any point for coolant to become trapped and not able to flow. I will be avoiding this. Below are some attached photos. Here is a legend and the coolant flow path in the factory form of the NEO. Point 1 - Return from heater core to thermostat housing, (return from oil warmer is also tee'd into this). Point 2 - Return from front bleed valve to thermostat housing (The return from the throttle body and Point 7 (the front outlet of the runners) connects to this front bleed valve) Point 3 - Feed to heater core Point 4 - Feed to oil warmer (This can be completely ignored) Point 5 - This goes up to the rear bleed valve (Point 8 also connects to this bleed valve and also the feed to the throttle body comes from this bleed valve) Point 6 - Return From Turbo Point 7 - Front runner outlet to front bleed point Point 8 - Rear runner outlet to rear bleed point NOTE - Both bleed valves will not be re-fitted, Hence the use of a swirl pot for bleeding. What i am trying to work out, is what to do with the 8 points. How to correctly set them up. I have a few different ideas, but i'm trying to distinguish which one is most suitable, My latest thinking i have come up with: Point 1 / Point 2 / Point 3 / Point 4 / Point 5 - Delete completely, Remove the fitting completely from the thermostat housing and blank up with a welch plug. Do the same at the rear of the block, remove the fitting in the block completely and blank off with a 3/4" NPT bung. This removes any pockets for coolant to get trapped. Why delete both fittings completely? Well the original oil warming piping is not required nor do i need the fittings or piping for a heater core. Now most people would say just link the rear of the block to the thermostat housing. But, thinking about it if you retained the heater core as many people do, for 6 months of the year the heater tap is closed completely stopping coolant from flowing through to the heater core and back to the thermostat housing. Therefore i see no reason apart from 1 (Below) to retain those two fittings. If i did have a heater core, it would be shut for 6 months of the year which is the same thing as removing the fittings and blanking. The only reason i can think to keep a fitting in the rear of the block and in the thermostat housing would be for bleeding purposes if required; 1. Tee the rear of the block to the rear runner; Point 5 to Point 6 - This tee point then runs to the swirl pot. 2. Tee the thermostat housing to the front runner, Point 2 to Point 7 - This also then runs to the swirl pot. i am unsure if i need to bleed the rear of the block and the thermostat housing to the swirl pot? Or can i simply do as above and just run Point 7 and 8 to the top of the swirl pot? I have different theories on this. My current think is that i do not need to bleed the block. If you look at an RB26 there is only a fitting in the thermostat housing for a return from the heater core, there is no piping to go to a bleed point. As for the rear i'm not sure what is done. But looking at other peoples swirl pots, i have not seen anyone take a bleed point from the block up to the swirl pot. Sorry for the long thread, but any help would be appreciated and i hope this can help others. Cheers.

Still have NEO coilpacks, plenum, Idle control valve, AFM, Stock Injectors, Boost Sensor, Engine fan, Pistons and Rods and RB inlet adjustable cam gear remaining!

Well an atmospheric BOV: Can mess with the auto trans and how it drives The ECU really doesn't like it and freaks out when its venting Its illegal as it totally screws with emissions It is basically like putting a huge DEFECT ME sticker on your car BOV's do not get the girls, well maybe the trannies.

Wrong section. Also if you still have the factory ECU with an Air Flow Meter then putting an atmospheric BOV on is a really bad idea! Research it.

Yep. -10. Not -8.

Nah, the NEO doesn't have anymore internal drains compared to a Normal RB25. I dont see the reason in deleting that small vent / drain on the NEO just because they went to solid lifters. Yes the oil is fed less (smaller restrictors) but i dont know if that was the justification to remove the vent. On my engine i have set up a vent from the rear of the head to inlet side of the sump, a -12 fitting will run from the highest point on the inlet side of the sump to the top of the catch can. I have also put in a drain in the 1/2" NPT threaded hole between exhaust ports 3 and 4 that will drain back to the sump on the exhaust side, (this is the lowest part of the head). I also drilled out the 5x drains in the block and head and gasket matched the two cast drains at the rear of the engine.

Ah. But why did Nissan remove this Vent on the NEO? At the same time they fitted an N1 pump and smaller restrictors to it.

Convert it back to mechanical clutch fan

A lot of the torque settings for the NEO can be found in the specification area of the R34 'Service' Manual. This one comes in engrish.

Yep. Got both sides in the van. PM me.

More low = More defect? Not to mention your roll centre ends up the shit wahzoo. I'm not 'hatin' but if you lower it more you'll get your stance, but at the cost of no vehicle practicality, anal reaming from police and potentially impose handling issues.

Why do you want to remove the A/C request signal to the ECU? There is no map for the A/C. The ECU turns the A/C on when requested but only under a few conditions. I believe these are; When not at full throttle and when the engine is not overheating. The ECU also bumps up idle when the A/C is requested. Im not sure what the reason is for removing it? You can demist your windzcreen with hot air as well..

Do it once, do it right. Buy a 25 box, do a basic rebuild on it and leave it. The $300 RB20 boxes plus all the rebuilding you say you do to them adds up to the cost of a 25 box anyway.

Just put a 25 box in. Not worth the head ache for a 20 box. Sounds like youve done serious damage.

Should have them. I'll have a look on the weekend when i'm at my shed. I did remove them from the cam covers in the thought to fit AN fittings. I'm pretty sure they are in the "Useless factory shit" box.

No photo here to see... I might have one though. I'm not using any of the factory cam covers, fittings, hoses etc as i've gone RB26 covers.

This, especially on electrical gauges. You want a gauge that is in the range as close to possible of your operating medium, be it pressure, temperature, position etc. RB20 with a factory oil pump, you would fit a 100PSI oil pressure gauge. It's never going to go above that.

Sweet, cheers for that mate. That should be pretty easy to work out the duty cycle from then. Locked at 123Hz across the board. At 0km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 4.4 - 6.6V that is a rough 32 - 47% Duty cycle At 100km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 1.5 - 2.2V that is a rough 11 - 16% Duty cycle. Calculated on the basis of 14V. After 100km/h do you know if the duty drops off to 0 eventually or it stays at approx 16% after 100km/h? Looks like its just a case of doing a linear graph every 10km/h from 0 to 100 using those duty cycle's as the start and finish points.

Bump

Major thread revival. So i'm trying to find out what signal the Hicas unit gives the power steering solenoid in an R33 rack. As the rack isn't actually in an R33 i can't just hook up a scope to the plug and see what its doing. I need to know the duty cycle and frequency of the output is at say 0km/h and 100km/h. I assume it will be a linear line between those two points, above someone said its a square wave, thats a start. The above link from heller44 does not work. I looked in the R33 workshop manual which was no real help. It just stated that you should see approx 6-8V at 0km/h and around 2V? at 100km/h. No actual duty cycle or frequency data is given in the manual. What i'm trying to hopefully do is control the solenoid from my Link ECU in my R31. I previously have driven the car with the solenoid completely off and it did feel heavy at a stand still and low speeds. Any help would be appreciated.

R33 Plazmaman plenum will NOT bolt onto R34 runners. Same goes for R34 Plazmaman plenum onto R33 runners - not compatible. AAC valves are different as stated.

Splitfires and delete the BEE R Limiter, all thats doing is killing your spark plugs. Hang on a minute though, your getting bigger injectors - Why?? Are you fitting a bigger turbo? Are you Fitting a Z32 AFM? Are you getting a retune? If your not upgrading to a larger turbo and chasing more power there is no need to change the injectors.

If i were to build another engine this would certainly be high up on the choice of oil pump setup for me...

Ahhh i see. Tricky fuse huh. Multi meter's are good you've just got to know what your looking for and how to diagnose issues in a step by step process. Test lights are handy though.

Yes and yes Bleed with both screws out until no air exits the front. Fit bolt back into front bleeder and continue bleeding the rear until no more air exits.