Hesh

my r33 gts4 doesnt have this torque split gauge. though im lead tobeleive the r32 does. Also here is something mull over. ive often heard it said that a gts4 is rwd in perfect conditions..or normal driving. My attessa has been non functional for months due to failed g sensor, and the car was diffinately rwd. (abs and 4wd lights on perminantly on dash) during this time the car was very light inthe steering department, tracked quite well round corners with minimal understeer and had the obvious power oversteer. then i fixed the gsensor ..thus restorin the attessa to functioning. now if the "only as needed" were true then there should be no difference in feel or behaviour. however steering is heavier (remenisent of front drive cars) and even when not going hard, on a particularly polished local round about i got power understeer followed by over steer. so i would guess (and as i have no torque gauge it's just that) the front wheels are driving albeit in a minimal capacity almost all of the time. food for thought.

yes ive had the battery disconected and reset the ecu several times. ive ot an after market piggy back here ina box waiting too on ..a map2ecu. it is possilbe to (re) map the standard ecu. rsp over here in the uk do it by replacing one of the daughter boards..roughly 600 quid (gbp) running

you may find some people eroneously refering to 4 door models as gts4's though not as often now

cheers guys. heres the reason for the remap question. i have a panel filter as ive said, BUT i also have aported and polished head and coby d12's now each of these are small changes in them selves but the sum of all of them amy well have put the car just outside of the parameters the ecu can deal with as stock.(???) i am wondering about this for the specific reason that when cold the engine would rev up to 2000 on idle, and when dipping the clutch would rise revs. sometimes hunts too as if the ecu is trying figure out settings. doesnt do this all the time its an odd occasion ..and confusingly less so since ive had the 4wd fixed.....so i wonder if the transmission wieght has a bearing...(though starting clutch in and clutch out makes no difference. if the engies running lean shes gonna get hot too with obvious consequences ....bit long winded ..sorry! 9note i REALLY need to learn to type!)

mines a gts4 saloon 1994 series one and has the blue badges. the red gts25s i had had red ones on i think ..will have togo backand check the pics...

cheers tokyotaxi! interesting about the rb30. from what i remember the rb20e doesnt have on either....

hi, quick question for those that are running pod filters on the NA varients. when fitting the pod filter did you do any or all of the following? 1) fit a cold air feed? 2) add a heat sheild? 3) get a remap? and what were the power/torque gains in each case. reason behind the question is that i have long held the view that panel filters are best for NA as they have facotry cold air feeds etc...and some people have reported drops when fitting cone style filters. so i though i get the info in context? any feed back would be great ta

had a read before posting, and one of our guys over here is doing just this with similar results. the whole reason toolman (and beleatedly myself) were asking about the resonator box was an attempt to figure out what this part does and therefore why the the reduced performance when its removed.... from your reply it would seem that this box has a similar perpose to that of the NVCS onthe NA varient, specifically to imporve low end drivability, whilst retaining high rev power/torque. would i correct in assuming then that when at high revs this box is pretty much superfluous? as the air intake charge is going much faster and therefore wont have time to "bounce around" the internal chambers?

update on where my car stands. dynoed with: spitfire coil packs ngk plugs ported and polished head K&N panel filter and standard exhaust down to 180bhp and 156lbft of torque from the stock figures. since then ive added coby d12 headers (not ceramic coated or wrapped as yet) standard catalyst into threeinch pipe to calsonic back box. yet to dyno this set up ..(delayed due to 4wd issue) also for info ..anyone with an r33 saloon (gts4 or rwd)the rear subframe is identical to a rwd coupe gts and therefore the whiteline kit listed ofr the gts witll fit ..(and makes a big difference)

has ainy one removed this part and or replaced it with an alloy tube or similar?....and if so with what type of results?

I gotta jump in here in defense of lammy. since finding this forum i have been lobying (successfully) for an NA section on the UK skylineowners.com. since here in the uk there are considerably less NA's knocking around, we have adopted an information gathering aproach to what can be done to an NA, which of course includes addition of a turbo or a supercharger. (ok so they then become forced induction but bear with me) The reasoning is simple. over here alot of the turbo lads were of the opinion that its cheaper to sell the NA skyline (in this case the rb25de) and buy a turbo model..however lammy has done the conversion so can say with authority that it simply isn't the case. Additionally the turbo'd de is a different beast due to the compresion ratio's etc. so in short Lammy's post was in the spirit of "what can be done to an NA", thus hopefully convinceing a few people to go down that "road less travelled" I for one will be interested to see how long the bottom end lasts and what power figures are acheived before it goes pop. for how else will we learn? cheers si.

hi guys hesh from the good ole uk here. just want to be sure we're singing the same song. in the uk the term "plenum" refers to the metal intake on the left of the block (as viewed from the front) but what toolman, (and myself) have been looking into is the plastic square thing on the intake pipe) if we are indeed talkingabout the same part then i guess if the chamber is designed to create as you say an air supply off throttle then an aftermarket one isnt gonna gain much as developments gonna need lots of air flow calcs...

great stuff as ever guys ...watching with interest....... im teatering onthe edge of the supercharger/itb debate for my car at the mo....

hey guys its the Hesh here. Yes we went ahead with the uk coby group buy. took ages as i had to go off for an unplanned 4 month holiday in saddams old back yard. anyhoo toolman, myself and two others on so.com purchased the coby d12s. cost finally to us was 216gbp a set all done including vat and handling charge in the country so not at all bad. i hope to fit mine tomorow. interesting to read some of the coments on here regarding exhaust size. i recently had a mate whos handy with a welder do a bit of an experiment. he took a 3inch system from a 32 gtr welded a tube in the middle section behind the cat 9mins a 334door so a tad longer) and stuck on a trust end can .......man that was LOUD...but car was flat as apancake..drove it round for week like that then went back and he made a 3inch to 2.5 reducer and we fitted a twin exit calsonic back box from the shop floor. revs up much better! so with the cobys bolted up tomorow i am really looking forward to seeing how she does...

really interesting ..and soo much cheaper than the rb26 adaptaion i was looking at awhiles back

hey toolman came on here and the fisrt post i see is yours ..lol nice one mate!

try this mate, and loo on the gtroc... http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation

ive got this exact problem on my r33 gts4 saloon. except to say that ive got falut code 63 which is the g sensor. BUT having had the car on a consult today its tellin me that the g sensor is fine. (via the abs still cant get into the 4wd) ive checked the level of fluid inthe boot and it isnt dropping very far at all ..may be 1cm or so at start up ..but still above the min.

hey guys, got a problems with me GTS4 r33. its been stood a whiles and since getting backin it its throwing up an error code on onthe attessa brain inthe boot. (code 63..which is the gsensor) having had a consult plugged in today it would apear the g sensor is fine, as the abs says its drwing the right current and there are no ABS faults. however we couldnt get intothe attessa 4wd at all. couldnt even get the road sensors checked as it wouldnt alow this whilst the fault code is showing. anoyingly this is and intemitant fault. thoughits getting more often. either at start up ignition or fails as driving. any ideas?

ok guys im going to go ahead withthe uk side of this. I hope you get the headers sorted out for fair price those that want them .....cheers for allthe input.

guys do you want to extend to see what if anything comes of the new dealer?

still waiting for partscos reply ......

just emailed partsco ..awaiting reply

ok seen as there are now a few wanting more info ill fire off an email to partsco today. imnot back inthe uk for another week, but at least their reply should be waiting for me when i arrive.

nope. just tell me what type you want and add your name tothe above list. little update for you guys. ive heard from all five of my guys in UK, i now have allthe details form that forumand a delivered price to me inthe uk. so this means its only the aussie side that needs sorting out interms of details for delivery etc and final price, then we can colect money and get these ordered. im back in uk from the 6th next month and will chace partsco on AUS delivery asap.