franks

guys from japan! myself and 4 friends will be in japan from the 1st January through to the 11th, were staying at the Sumisho hotel near tokyo central station. we have 1 contact over there, who has an awesome chaser drift car, who'll be taking us to various spots such as the daikoku carpark and the freeway runs and also the drifting, just wondering if any of you guys would like to meet up for dinner and what not? cheers!

hahahaha, you could have written down "lesser RB26 varieties" good stuff, id like to go as it'd be interesting. though i should become a member shouldn't i

sorry these buttons on the new forum style are confusing i was replying to the original post theres a plethora of information regarding difference between series1 and 2 r33's, just have to use the search button dude.

is that way top fuel drag cars are 4wd too??? :wassup:

WHAT!!!! no category for GT-T!?!?!?!?

peakhurst is a shit load closer to where i live, but i like the idea of online quotes!!!

in the wet and off the mark im imagining soul, brother, theres no "good" or "bad" time to buy any type of car. if you can afford it - buy a fast european car! porsche 911, e46 M3, ferrari 355...whatever!!! you only live once dude the only reason why im not driving one is because i can't afford one so i drive fast japanese cars instead - which are cheaper

i dont think they'll ever return to the good ole days for a few reasons... 1. increased insurance premiums for high perf. imports 2. greater choice of locally delivered cars 3. slump in economic climate 4. tighter import regulations that said, there a few good signs that they may improve.... 1. worsening yen, increasing aussie dollar value 2. growth in import performance car scene 3. greater choice of jdm cars 4. affordability of r34 and r32 gtr's. of course, im not a speculator

non adjustables are a waste if your car isnt a dedicated for track, i've also heard they break other things like links because of their stiffness! i'd definately go for adjustables as it allows you to adjust over time, assuming you keep upgrading your suspension bits like coil overs, castor kit, camber kit etc, to your individual car and personal likes... word of warning - swaybars alone will definately eliminate bodyroll but you will gain a shitload of understeer! (regardless of the settings ie. hard rear, soft front). you need to compliment the swaybars with castor and camber to get your turn in right, and then have a good set of rubber aswell.

yup great advice here....C&V can also be of help.

hahaha, im Franky Lie with a "y" tony! anyways, that front bar is a Top Secret bar. mine is a COPY version of it. i got my front bar from www.carmate.com.au fitted and supplied for around $800.00. Carmate is in Sydney's south west area. this is what i had when i bought the car, its an original front bar with an east bear front lip. imho, better looking than the Top Secret bar, but farken tooooooo low. i cracked it within weeks of putting it on. so i got it replaced with the aforementioned, unsure about that nose extension, but damn, if you do find out where i can get one, LET ME KNOW im looking at further modifying my front bar, it needs to sit about an inch lower and i want some ducting channels to the front rotors. if you're interested in one when its made up talk to me offline. i've already approached a bodykit manufacturer and the wheels are in motion

i would've thought it'd be different in every case. i guess the seller doesnt have to sell it to you if he doesnt want to? its almost taken as a priviledge to sell it to you in some seller's minds! i didnt think there was a "pass" or "fail" grade they gave, they just simply give a report the pass or fail is ultimately in the mind of the buyer?

-bnr34 and er34 bonnets are definately not the same! -fyi, a genuine series3 R33 gtr front bar from Nissan Australia costs $800 unpainted - i can't see how a bnr34 front bar could be that much different? -i heard 1 x headlight assembly for an er34 was AUD$2500.00 i guess it costs so much because it comes with the xenon equipment aswell? demon dave, id like to know where you got that information from? ie. the guards not lining up correctly with the bnr34 front bar? im curious because the idea of changing to a bnr34 front did cross my mind and the only thing i believed that needed to be changed was the bonnet and front bar. the front bar and grille of a bnr34 are one piece from what i can see. i also agree with the rest of you that the gtt has certain original traits which, with some help of a lip or aftermarket front bar, transforms the car...but at the end of the day its fibreglass! and fibreglass SUX!!! you can't beat the original plastic in terms of rigidity. the other thing is, these aftermarket bars and lips usually sit too low for australian roads - given they've been made for jdm er34's... check the victorian section for gtt body kits, theres a whole thread on this very topic in there somewhere....

buzz, great to see someone else using them, you mentioned that you bought the car with them on, do you have a rough estimate as to how many km's you put on them before they had to be replaced and how much tread, % wise, was on them when you bought the car? rob, no probs. hope they impress you as much as they've impressed me! knore, unsure of availability in brisbane, i would say goto your local and see if they can order them in at worst case? price was $300 for fronts, $350 for rears - they'll usually help you out on installation costs if you buy the whole set ...

i've had the rb74's on since trackday and yes, they are squeeling like a 18yr old.

folks, just a quick thumbs up for the aforementioned tyre. i've had them on the vehicle for about 5,000km's with 2 trackdays and they are holding up extremely well, i predict them getting to 15,000km's without any drama's. I have 17inch all round, 255/40 on the rear, 235/45 on the front. Suspension setup helps alot though, i have Whiteline swaybars, camber & castor kits aswell as a rear diff brace. In the Wet: fantastic - you can easily light up the rear's but i put that down to a function of high powered rear wheel drive rather than lack of grip. Put it into a corner and it turns without understeer, maybe a touch of oversteer. With traction control on, its like driving a AWD - it has that much grip. In heavy rain i have never experienced aqua planing, water just washes off them... In the dry: sublime - grip when you need it without squeel or road noise! i am absolutely dumbfounded by the amount of road noise these tyres produce - practically none! for its soft compound nature, the road noise of these tyres are amazing! tyre wear is also impressing me especially after 2 trackdays and 5,000km's. On the track: utopia - im sure an Rspec tyre will have alot more grip but for the money i paid you just can't go wrong. just after the suspension was installed i had the tyres put on aswell. on the first trip down the car was terrible, i was understeering all over the place. dropped the tyre pressures on the front and it pulled it back in a little but it still had excessive understeer. on my return trip i tweaked the rear sway bar to its hardest settings and played with tyre pressures till i had the car almost the way i want it. it still has some understeer but the its more nuetral than anything. thumbs up. they come highly recommended and i will definately be getting them again pending its tyre wear...as i said i've only ran them for 5,000km's i'll have to report back how much i actually get out of them - perhaps in a year or so then i guess price? ~$1300 fitted & balanced for all 4.

from the track's point of view, the xr6 drivers were definately new to it all, but they all got progressively better and better with confidence. they are quick down the straight though! i wasnt making any yards on them!

id have to partly agree with that, ultimates are good for performance street, but probably not the best for track - would be worthwhile for the extra $'s to get RB74's...

dude, afaik the 200sx caliper is the same size/shape as the gtst/gtt's. just out of interest, have you asked nissan for stock nissan pads? just be sitting down when they tell you the price

ah good to see some interest here guys...! i've been to a fair few private days down there and i've felt as though i've had ample track time, with ample space whilst on the track, when theres been around 30-35 cars participating and about 7 or 8 cars on the track at any one time.... i know pete and a few others go fairly hard on a trackday and like their room, but i think for the majority of people $100 for a trackday down at wakefield is about the right price (including me:)), in which case will require around 30 paying people to get a private day. im unsure of costs on a w/e, theres doesnt seem to be that many left for the year! so lets keep the enthusiasm up! whats our thoughts on other performance cars? id be pretty cool with cars other than skylines down there....

I would love to organise a private trackday down at wakefield with all you guys and snsw and skylines and car enthusiasts in general, but this is not an easy thing to do... could i have an Expression Of Interest from people who are willing to come down for the day and participate? a private trackday entails we have the whole track to ourselves. unlimited fun. unlimited scrubbing in other rides....to give you an idea, i usually do about 4 sessions in a day. each session includes a warm up and warm down lap and approximately 3 or 4 hot laps (depending on how the car is behaving and who is on the track ). but i also try and get into other people's cars to either show them lines or enjoy their car! costs will be something like this: * $100 for the day (which will goto the day's track hire & ambulance) this will also depend on the number of people who commit * $30 for a one year wakefield park license (re-usable on your next ventures down to wakefield park) * 1.25 tanks of petrol ~$70. it'll take 1/4 tank to get down there, 1/4 tank back and approximately 3/4 of a tank of usage at the track (this obviously depends on how hard you go) * unknown costs include brake pad wear, rotor wear, tyre wear, engine wear... You will need to wear the following: - long sleeve shirt and pants (both non flammable) - shoes its an extremely fun day out there. anyone who has been to wakefield will agree its extremely hard to hit anything (the most concern comes from hitting another car so thats why we limit the amount of cars on the track). its a technical circuit which is fun because you actually have to turn and for spectators its a great circuit because you can see the whole track from any viewing spot. one misnomer is that you need a modified car to have fun. i can honestly say you dont. a stock car is JUST as fun as a modified car, and not only that, you will learn to appreciate your modifications more and more PLUS you will also appreciate the limits of both your car and your driving! anyways, i'll leave it up to you enthusiasts because it wont happen unless we all commit. im thinking either mid/late november or early december...

i've spoken to pete about this, the turbo is from an SR20 so it will fit an RB26 or SR20. i believe this is a T2 flange. for RB25/RB20 you will need a T3 flange.

hrm turbo talk! thanks for diggin that up for me looks like there isnt a bolt on T3 2835R turbo!?

jimbo, have you looked through the RTA site? i have the PDF file which lists all RTA authorised workshops where you can get an engineers certificate. got it from the RTA url and its sitting on my c drive at home. i'll have a dig for it.

so in your case, a powerfc looks just like a stock ecu. so there's a fairly minimal chance a plod could tell you have an aftermarket ecu from looking either in your engine bay or interior. that said, i doubt they'd know what a bleed valve looked like also. i've heard one story where an insurance company went to the extent of contracting a mechanic to inspect a vehicle for mods that would voided his insurance claim. sure enough, the ecu was found to be aftermarket and the claim was void. moral of the story, tell the whole truth or prepare for the worst circumstances...